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I'm going to snap some pictures today and upload to my build thread since I'm long overdue for that. I'll try to remember to post some here, but if I don't, check my build later.
I honestly can't comment on ride effects of the sliders alone since my springs, shocks (4600's), and sliders all happened at the same exact time. All I can really say is that my ride is fine. It's a little rougher in the rear, but I think that has more to do with Dorman springs (vs factory), 4600's (vs original), and the fact that my 4600's are overextended right now because I didn't expect 3" of lift. I'm going to be getting some "cheaters" to essentially act as spacers for my shocks so that they are riding in the correct position and don't top-out.
Originally Posted by Bluemax
My problem is with my axle it seems, to install my axle i had to pull it to one side of the jeep and then push on the spring pack inward with my foot to get the pin to line up with the perch. This inward bind that is a result of my perches being too close causes the rest of the pack to fan out ward thus rubbing on the slider, as you can see in the pics.
I have this exact same problem.
I just send Tim at LI an email to see what he thinks of these issues.
Tim
I recently came across a guy who also has your sliders on his XJ and has the same exact problem I have and decided to see if you had any insight. Rather than trying to put it into words, attached is a photo showing my leaf rubbing against the inside of the slider. This happens on the passenger side also (but mirrored). Is there anything I should or even can do to correct this?
I'd also like to comment to you that when installing these, we had to add washers between the nuts and the plastic bushings because the included sleeves were so long that the bushings were able to work themselves out so far that one side could end of with little more than 1/8" contact with its rail. Yes, we could have shortened the sleeves, but we wanted to try something reversible first, and it worked so well that we just left it.
You've also said that these provide no lift, but I installed these with Dorman leaves and am roughly 2.5-3" higher than factory in the rear. The Dormans are expected to provide 1" of lift. The same poster I referenced above also said he replaced a 1.25" lift shackle with your sliders and did not lose any lift and even compared the side-by-side and did not see a difference in how each would position the leaf.
Wow, your whole leaf pack doesn't even line up. The main leaf on mine is centered, its just the rest of the leaf pack shifts outward. Do you remember if you had to force the leaf pack into position when installing them, like I described my situation?
Wow, your whole leaf pack doesn't even line up. The main leaf on mine is centered, its just the rest of the leaf pack shifts outward. Do you remember if you had to force the leaf pack into position when installing them, like I described my situation?
A friend of mine did the install for me while I was busy with other things. He had some remarks, but nothing about this; it was a smooth install except for some hangups involving the hitch and rusty old hardware. I hadn't even noticed until I saw your post and went out and looked at mine.
If you look closely, you can see the color change on the inside of the slider where my leaf has been rubbing on it near the tip of the 2nd leaf.
I'm toying with ditching them and going back to shackles, but now that I've lifted the front to compensate for the unexpected rear lift, I'd have to mess around with finding shackles that match the lift of these sliders because while LI says they provide no lift, after seeing your comparison to a lift shackle and seeing 2.5-3" of lift from Dorman springs...I can't believe the sliders are 0" lift.
Last edited by mschi772; Feb 11, 2017 at 03:53 PM.
I think I can maybe solve my version of this problem. As you read in the email I sent Tim, the sleeves given me were too long and were allowing the plastic bushings to "back out" of their channels to a dangerous degree. I ended up just settling on using washers to keep them in place (washers can be seen in photos behind the nuts).
I think if I remove the washers and instead shorten the sleeves on the inside/bolt head side or even simply put the washers on that side instead of the nut side and retighten, that would push the leaf further toward the middle by that much, yeah? It wouldn't perfectly center them, but at least they shouldn't be rubbing anymore. Ugh, to remove those sleeves means pulling the bolts out which means having to move my tailpipe and remove my hitch; not looking forward to that.
Last edited by mschi772; Feb 11, 2017 at 03:59 PM.
Thinking back on my install I to had to shave a little bit off those sleeves for the bushings to sit flush in the channels. And I also E-mailed Tim a couple of days ago, still hasn't gotten back with me, which I kind of expected from passed communication. I'm hoping he can shed some insight on these issues so I can keep using them, and not worry about them. And why your are doing that, perhaps see if you can flip the bolts around so the nut is on the inside like i did. Makes it far more user friendly when ever you need to replace those bushings.
I'm considering just getting some new spring perches and installing them so there is no inward bind on the springs. I'm pretty sure that would fix my issue, but I'm also hesitant doing anything to a dana35.. lol. but seeing how this inst a dedicated crawler I don't think its a completely stupid idea.
A dedicated crawler should never have a d35. I swapped my d35 out when I was just on 31s. No more worries, for the rest of my wheeling days! Great pictures everyone, I'm enjoying reading each post
I don't run them yet but plan to have them installed in the next few weeks. I just received mine last week and can't say enough on the build quality, they look amazing.
A dedicated crawler should never have a d35. I swapped my d35 out when I was just on 31s. No more worries, for the rest of my wheeling days! Great pictures everyone, I'm enjoying reading each post
This one isnt dedicated, and wont be for quite a while.. So as blasphemous as it is I'm going to weld some perches on this one. thankfully a set off perches is only 24 bucks. lol
I think I can maybe solve my version of this problem. As you read in the email I sent Tim, the sleeves given me were too long and were allowing the plastic bushings to "back out" of their channels to a dangerous degree. I ended up just settling on using washers to keep them in place (washers can be seen in photos behind the nuts).
I think if I remove the washers and instead shorten the sleeves on the inside/bolt head side or even simply put the washers on that side instead of the nut side and retighten, that would push the leaf further toward the middle by that much, yeah? It wouldn't perfectly center them, but at least they shouldn't be rubbing anymore. Ugh, to remove those sleeves means pulling the bolts out which means having to move my tailpipe and remove my hitch; not looking forward to that.
That seams like it would fix you problem. I think I read somewhere that a guy used some UHMW on the inside instead of washers.
mschi772 Noticed you're from wisconsin. Travel through Hartland much?
Used to live there actually--very near 16 & 83. Now I go past it once in awhile on my way from Racine to the girlfriend's family who are in the Oconomowoc area.
Used to live there actually--very near 16 & 83. Now I go past it once in awhile on my way from Racine to the girlfriend's family who are in the Oconomowoc area.
Small world, My girlfriend is from hartland. Was just up there in Dec.
This was the reply I got back from Tim. Not sure how I'm supposed to space the boxes out further considering they slide up into the stock shackle box..We shall see.
Apologize for the delay getting back to you. I have had a few other users with a similar issue in the past but it hasn't really been a common one. In the last 8 months or so we did a revision on the boxes which gives quite a bit more adjustment to relieve any alignment issues. The problem is that you are still bound by the shackle tie in. I have designed a way to solve that issue as well and hope to release it very shortly with the next batch.
I'm not sure when yours were purchased off hand, but the first thing I would do is try and realign the boxes a bit. It seems like pushing them out a hair will help resolve this problem. If you have an older design you may have to open up the mounting holes to do this.
Pulling the axle over to drop in the perch holes isn't very uncommon even with a shackle. Of course the shackle does not have the rubbing issue so it is never a real problem until you are running the sliders in the same position. The two solutions for this are to move the slider out or move the perch in.
Let me know what the adjustments yield and we can go from there. In the future for more urgent replies feel free to contact my sales team at sales@liquidironindustries.com. I am sometimes tied up on the shop floor and don't always get the office time I need!
