When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I chose the "Crown" brake lines for my XJ cost is higher but a high quality line. When buying consider the length if you plan on more lift in the future, the extra is easy to take care of on the lower lift till you do.
A couple misconceptions that need to be cleared up:
Stainless hardware falls under a completely different ASTM standard and, as such, is not graded the same way as carbon steel hardware is. So there is no such thing as a grade 2 stainless, but the basic message is correct: Stainless hardwar is NOT as strong as Grade 5 hardware and in the context of automotive applications should NEVER be used in load critical applications. ie. suspension or steering.
Torque specifications that are given, unless otherwise and specifically stated, are given for clean, dry threads. The addition of lubricants, contaminants, etc. such as oil, dirt, or anti-seize will dramatically alter the friction between the male and female threads.
I did some research a while ago and the difference is dramatic: by applying anti-seize to the threads you have to reduce your torque spec by as much as 40%, otherwise you risk over-torquing the fastener. in some cases, you might come very close to, or even exceed, the yield strength of the fastener.
If you are going to add anti-seize to critical bolts, do your research first.
Always use anti-seize if its a stainless bolt and a stainless nut. Stainless on stainless causes problems. As far as penetrating oils go, the best I have ever used came in a green can with a clover on the front. It was called S'OK. That stuff blew my mind it worked so well. If you ever see it, get some and try it.
A couple misconceptions that need to be cleared up: Stainless hardware falls under a completely different ASTM standard and, as such, is not graded the same way as carbon steel hardware is. So there is no such thing as a grade 2 stainless, but the basic message is correct: Stainless hardwar is NOT as strong as Grade 5 hardware and in the context of automotive applications should NEVER be used in load critical applications. ie. suspension or steering. Torque specifications that are given, unless otherwise and specifically stated, are given for clean, dry threads. The addition of lubricants, contaminants, etc. such as oil, dirt, or anti-seize will dramatically alter the friction between the male and female threads. I did some research a while ago and the difference is dramatic: by applying anti-seize to the threads you have to reduce your torque spec by as much as 40%, otherwise you risk over-torquing the fastener. in some cases, you might come very close to, or even exceed, the yield strength of the fastener. If you are going to add anti-seize to critical bolts, do your research first.
Always use anti-seize if its a stainless bolt and a stainless nut. Stainless on stainless causes problems. As far as penetrating oils go, the best I have ever used came in a green can with a clover on the front. It was called S'OK. That stuff blew my mind it worked so well. If you ever see it, get some and try it.
Stainless on stainless doesn't "cause problems" per se, but because stainless is so soft, if you are going to torque a stainless nut onto a stainless bolt/stud/rod you need to use anti-seize. Otherwise the threads will gall and frictionweld together and you'll wind up torquing the bolt apart if you ever try to take the assembly apart.
Again, this applies if you are applying significant torque. Anti-seize is not necessary for hand-tight assemblies.
Higher classes of stainless, such as 316 or 400-class, are harder and may be a little more resistant to galling, but it doesn't hurt to take the precaution of using anti-seize. Just remember to adjust the torque spec accordingly.
A couple misconceptions that need to be cleared up:
Stainless hardware falls under a completely different ASTM standard and, as such, is not graded the same way as carbon steel hardware is. So there is no such thing as a grade 2 stainless, but the basic message is correct: Stainless hardwar is NOT as strong as Grade 5 hardware and in the context of automotive applications should NEVER be used in load critical applications. ie. suspension or steering.
Torque specifications that are given, unless otherwise and specifically stated, are given for clean, dry threads. The addition of lubricants, contaminants, etc. such as oil, dirt, or anti-seize will dramatically alter the friction between the male and female threads.
I did some research a while ago and the difference is dramatic: by applying anti-seize to the threads you have to reduce your torque spec by as much as 40%, otherwise you risk over-torquing the fastener. in some cases, you might come very close to, or even exceed, the yield strength of the fastener.
If you are going to add anti-seize to critical bolts, do your research first.
Thank you! Looks like I will just be painting everything after the install, or maybe just a healthy dose of extra tacky grease.
It is absolutely true actually. The anti-seize acts as a buffer between the grain structures. It doesn't take long for a torqued stainless bolt/nut to seize simply from the pressure.
It is absolutely true actually. The anti-seize acts as a buffer between the grain structures. It doesn't take long for a torqued stainless bolt/nut to seize simply from the pressure.
I just find it strange. Never had any problem with that and I used to work at a shipyard where stainless steel hardware is used all the time and had no problems unfastening them to do repairs.
I just find it strange. Never had any problem with that and I used to work at a shipyard where stainless steel hardware is used all the time and had no problems unfastening them to do repairs.
Marine grade stainless. Entirely different beast than your regular 304/18.8 which is what most stainless that you would buy at say, Fastenal or Grainger is made of.
I've been in the nut and bolt industry for over 10 years and the sheer number of different specifications and classes of hardware STILL gives me a headache.
It is absolutely true actually. The anti-seize acts as a buffer between the grain structures. It doesn't take long for a torqued stainless bolt/nut to seize simply from the pressure.
Regular aluminum & copper style anti seize is not as good for use on stainless and the like as GOOP:
