lift, final decision i think, open to suggestions...
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 1
From: albany, new york
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6
xj^REMY
nope ur good, track bar is first on the list cause its sloppy i was looking ironman andys but thats 4"-8" so thats out of the question so now im thinking http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/in...oducts_id=1017
thanks for the help
nope ur good, track bar is first on the list cause its sloppy i was looking ironman andys but thats 4"-8" so thats out of the question so now im thinking http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/in...oducts_id=1017
thanks for the help
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 - Headwork, AFE CAI, 3" Magnaflow Pipe on Banks CC Headers
Well PUT !!!
ok, let's solve this... is this the IRO package u'r looking at??
if it is... the package comes with coils, leafs, shocks, t-case drop, extended sway bar end links, rear brake line drop kit, & necessary hardware... it apparently doesnt include control arms(CA's)... main things that're providing lift are the coils & leaf springs... this is decent kit, for beginners
at 3", these are the essential basics... CA's are still semi-close to factory angles, shocks are longer to allow more shock extension (as now the body sit higher, & the stock length shocks wouldnt be able to extend much more, if at all), t-case drop (to keep driveshafts close to factory angles), sway bar links (to keep the factory geometry), & rear brake line drop kit (to not stretch the factory one)
now for upgrading later & parts to be able to re-use, depends how much taller u want to go... main concern would be control arms... i'm not on the long arm band wagon, & dont plan to go to anytime soon, so my advice is biased... i'd say, invest in aftermarket CA's... depending on the wheelin u do, stock arms might fail on u if u wheel on them hard
let's assume u decide u want to go 4"-5" eventually... u'll need longer CA's to make up for the axle starting to get tucked further back, towards the rear... think of how suspension cycles... as the front axle drops equally on both sides, it follows a slight arc rearwards... so when u add taller coil springs, & the axle now sits slightly further back, the lower the axle gets away from the body, u'd need to compensate for that with lengthening CA's... for example, factory lower CA's i think measure 15 3/4", i have 16" lowers on a 4.5" lift... get it?... this is all in an effort to correct angles, with differential pinion (incorrect angle here, causes vibes), steering components (mainly caster) & prevent contact with things like track bar & diff cover, etc... to get more fine tuned, adjustable upper & lower CA's come into play
next would be adjustable track bar... as the axle drops further, the track bar pulls the axle to the driver side... an adjustable one keeps the axle centered side-side under the body... u can reuse the 3" springs & add coil spacers (ur choice, 1", 1.5", 2")... 3 + 2 = 5... also, in the rear keep the leafs, & add extended shackles to match the front... now since the angle are getting increase, u have to compensate... Slip Yoke Eliminator is now needed to take the harsh angle out of the t-case output... longer shocks, front brake lines, drop pitman arm & in my opinion, CA drop brackets... or if u'r really set on Long Arms, new crossmember (usually comes with whatever Long Arm system u choose) & u have to chop off the factory CA uni-body ("frame") mounts... so that last part should answer "going from short arm to long arm", yes u can, but u can never go back
did i miss anything?
if it is... the package comes with coils, leafs, shocks, t-case drop, extended sway bar end links, rear brake line drop kit, & necessary hardware... it apparently doesnt include control arms(CA's)... main things that're providing lift are the coils & leaf springs... this is decent kit, for beginners
at 3", these are the essential basics... CA's are still semi-close to factory angles, shocks are longer to allow more shock extension (as now the body sit higher, & the stock length shocks wouldnt be able to extend much more, if at all), t-case drop (to keep driveshafts close to factory angles), sway bar links (to keep the factory geometry), & rear brake line drop kit (to not stretch the factory one)
now for upgrading later & parts to be able to re-use, depends how much taller u want to go... main concern would be control arms... i'm not on the long arm band wagon, & dont plan to go to anytime soon, so my advice is biased... i'd say, invest in aftermarket CA's... depending on the wheelin u do, stock arms might fail on u if u wheel on them hard
let's assume u decide u want to go 4"-5" eventually... u'll need longer CA's to make up for the axle starting to get tucked further back, towards the rear... think of how suspension cycles... as the front axle drops equally on both sides, it follows a slight arc rearwards... so when u add taller coil springs, & the axle now sits slightly further back, the lower the axle gets away from the body, u'd need to compensate for that with lengthening CA's... for example, factory lower CA's i think measure 15 3/4", i have 16" lowers on a 4.5" lift... get it?... this is all in an effort to correct angles, with differential pinion (incorrect angle here, causes vibes), steering components (mainly caster) & prevent contact with things like track bar & diff cover, etc... to get more fine tuned, adjustable upper & lower CA's come into play
next would be adjustable track bar... as the axle drops further, the track bar pulls the axle to the driver side... an adjustable one keeps the axle centered side-side under the body... u can reuse the 3" springs & add coil spacers (ur choice, 1", 1.5", 2")... 3 + 2 = 5... also, in the rear keep the leafs, & add extended shackles to match the front... now since the angle are getting increase, u have to compensate... Slip Yoke Eliminator is now needed to take the harsh angle out of the t-case output... longer shocks, front brake lines, drop pitman arm & in my opinion, CA drop brackets... or if u'r really set on Long Arms, new crossmember (usually comes with whatever Long Arm system u choose) & u have to chop off the factory CA uni-body ("frame") mounts... so that last part should answer "going from short arm to long arm", yes u can, but u can never go back
did i miss anything?
Originally Posted by xj^REMY
ok, let's solve this... is this the IRO package u'r looking at??
if it is... the package comes with coils, leafs, shocks, t-case drop, extended sway bar end links, rear brake line drop kit, & necessary hardware... it apparently doesnt include control arms(CA's)... main things that're providing lift are the coils & leaf springs... this is decent kit, for beginners
at 3", these are the essential basics... CA's are still semi-close to factory angles, shocks are longer to allow more shock extension (as now the body sit higher, & the stock length shocks wouldnt be able to extend much more, if at all), t-case drop (to keep driveshafts close to factory angles), sway bar links (to keep the factory geometry), & rear brake line drop kit (to not stretch the factory one)
now for upgrading later & parts to be able to re-use, depends how much taller u want to go... main concern would be control arms... i'm not on the long arm band wagon, & dont plan to go to anytime soon, so my advice is biased... i'd say, invest in aftermarket CA's... depending on the wheelin u do, stock arms might fail on u if u wheel on them hard
let's assume u decide u want to go 4"-5" eventually... u'll need longer CA's to make up for the axle starting to get tucked further back, towards the rear... think of how suspension cycles... as the front axle drops equally on both sides, it follows a slight arc rearwards... so when u add taller coil springs, & the axle now sits slightly further back, the lower the axle gets away from the body, u'd need to compensate for that with lengthening CA's... for example, factory lower CA's i think measure 15 3/4", i have 16" lowers on a 4.5" lift... get it?... this is all in an effort to correct angles, with differential pinion (incorrect angle here, causes vibes), steering components (mainly caster) & prevent contact with things like track bar & diff cover, etc... to get more fine tuned, adjustable upper & lower CA's come into play
next would be adjustable track bar... as the axle drops further, the track bar pulls the axle to the driver side... an adjustable one keeps the axle centered side-side under the body... u can reuse the 3" springs & add coil spacers (ur choice, 1", 1.5", 2")... 3 + 2 = 5... also, in the rear keep the leafs, & add extended shackles to match the front... now since the angle are getting increase, u have to compensate... Slip Yoke Eliminator is now needed to take the harsh angle out of the t-case output... longer shocks, front brake lines, drop pitman arm & in my opinion, CA drop brackets... or if u'r really set on Long Arms, new crossmember (usually comes with whatever Long Arm system u choose) & u have to chop off the factory CA uni-body ("frame") mounts... so that last part should answer "going from short arm to long arm", yes u can, but u can never go back
did i miss anything?
if it is... the package comes with coils, leafs, shocks, t-case drop, extended sway bar end links, rear brake line drop kit, & necessary hardware... it apparently doesnt include control arms(CA's)... main things that're providing lift are the coils & leaf springs... this is decent kit, for beginners
at 3", these are the essential basics... CA's are still semi-close to factory angles, shocks are longer to allow more shock extension (as now the body sit higher, & the stock length shocks wouldnt be able to extend much more, if at all), t-case drop (to keep driveshafts close to factory angles), sway bar links (to keep the factory geometry), & rear brake line drop kit (to not stretch the factory one)
now for upgrading later & parts to be able to re-use, depends how much taller u want to go... main concern would be control arms... i'm not on the long arm band wagon, & dont plan to go to anytime soon, so my advice is biased... i'd say, invest in aftermarket CA's... depending on the wheelin u do, stock arms might fail on u if u wheel on them hard
let's assume u decide u want to go 4"-5" eventually... u'll need longer CA's to make up for the axle starting to get tucked further back, towards the rear... think of how suspension cycles... as the front axle drops equally on both sides, it follows a slight arc rearwards... so when u add taller coil springs, & the axle now sits slightly further back, the lower the axle gets away from the body, u'd need to compensate for that with lengthening CA's... for example, factory lower CA's i think measure 15 3/4", i have 16" lowers on a 4.5" lift... get it?... this is all in an effort to correct angles, with differential pinion (incorrect angle here, causes vibes), steering components (mainly caster) & prevent contact with things like track bar & diff cover, etc... to get more fine tuned, adjustable upper & lower CA's come into play
next would be adjustable track bar... as the axle drops further, the track bar pulls the axle to the driver side... an adjustable one keeps the axle centered side-side under the body... u can reuse the 3" springs & add coil spacers (ur choice, 1", 1.5", 2")... 3 + 2 = 5... also, in the rear keep the leafs, & add extended shackles to match the front... now since the angle are getting increase, u have to compensate... Slip Yoke Eliminator is now needed to take the harsh angle out of the t-case output... longer shocks, front brake lines, drop pitman arm & in my opinion, CA drop brackets... or if u'r really set on Long Arms, new crossmember (usually comes with whatever Long Arm system u choose) & u have to chop off the factory CA uni-body ("frame") mounts... so that last part should answer "going from short arm to long arm", yes u can, but u can never go back
did i miss anything?
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