I recently purchased a Rough Country lift kit for my 1989 XJ Cherokee. The kit included extended shackles for the the rear. The only problem was that I could not remove the "#@#@!!!" siezed shackle bolts, a common problem with these Jeeps. So now I have the lift completed on the front and I am not sure what to do with the rear. A friend suggested lift blocks since I only need 2 inches to level with the front. Searching this forum I have found nothing regarding lift blocks. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

 

I have run 1 inch blocks on my 92 and 01 with no issues, just to get the back a little higher than front...I hated perfectly level. Many people say it causes spring wrap and other issues. Personally, I cant see the difference of bolted to a perch or a properly sized block. Either way you might need longer rear brake lines. Problem for you is 35 year old leafst are probably completely worn out or even cracked and a lift using those old springs might not last too long

 

Do you remember where you purchased those blocks? And were they tapered or did you have to use tapered shims? I have read that the blocks can affect the driveline angles, however 1 or 2 inches does not seem to be enough to cause a seriou problem. The Jeep has probably sagged 1 o 2 inches just because of the old worn out springs.

 

Did you try using heat? Every bolt on my XJ lift was a pain until I used heat, then they came right out.

 

I had to use my angle grinder and cutting wheels, or a grinding wheel, to take care of some things when I did my lift. Or if you can slide a sawz-all blade in between the shackle and leaf, you could cut the bolt and punch it out. I did that on my lower control arms rear bolts.
Diablo makes a nice carbide tooth blade for thick metal to make easy work for stuff like that. Its probably about $15 for one blade but it made FAST work of the bolts. I mean fast compared to a 6-pack of cheap dewalt or similar blades.

https://www.diablotools.com/products/DS0608CF

 

ANY lift method will change driveline angles. I had a 3 inch ome spring lift with either 3 or 6 degree shims, cant remember. Also have a 1 inch tcase drop. I didnt like the perfectly level look so i added the 1 inch block. Its been over 10 years now with no issues. Are your springs still bowed upward, flat or frowny springs

 

I usually cut shackle bolts off with a torch or suicide wheel on grinder. No point in turning wrenches more than necessary

 

I have 4.5" of lift with an SYE and custom shaft. No t-case drop since I have the SYE. I didnt add angle shims (because I was lazy) and Ive had zero vibration issues in 3+ years. But I only drive about 15 miles a day, rarely on the highway. That doesnt mean everyone should do that. I DO however feel that I should put some in, even if its like 2 degrees.

 

flat but not yet frowning, BTW thanks to all for the info

 

My '98 came with 2" blocks and AAL's in 2017, not my choice but no complaints although they are due to be replaced as must be as bad as possible without causing the rear to sag (what we call "duck's disease").

My approach to replacing the springs is not too tackle it as one job but, rather, tackle, say, the U-bolts on one side 1st: remove nuts from one bolt heat &/or penetrant of choice have enabled me to do this with no problems (although the more rusty thread you have to wind then up, the more grateful for a rattle-gun you will be), clean threads & (ideally) run a tap thru' the nuts, reassemble with grease or even WD40 or similar & repeat on the other bolt. Clean up, pack up. poor a cold one & revel in the sense of achievement of making real progress with little or no stress. Before getting too carried away you might want to douse the front spring eye bolt with penetrant, although as the problem is more likely threadlock, than corrosion, I'm not entirely convinced there's any benefit.

The next day (evening/weekend/whatever) tackle that eye bolt. Now now it's heat you need for this, to melt the threadlock, but my top tip here is, radius the pinchweld in front of the bolthead, so you can get a socket on at least a 10" extension straight onto it, support extension on jackstand, you can then concentrate on swinging however long a breaker bar you need, outside the bodyline, while standing up. (of course if you have a lift, that won't apply - but I'm used to working out in the street). Once it's cracked, it'll wind out quite easily - although, again, a rattle gun will be easier than twirling a breaker bar/rowing a ratchet back & forth. Clean thread & replace bolt with any lubricant you have to hand. That's it, another job done. Part 3, whenever the next convenient time-slot is, is the rear shackle bolts or, rather one of them. Which might be determined by whether you are keeping the existing shackles but might be determined by which comes undone with less effort, on the basis it will improve access to the other. It was at this point that I discovered an unexpected problem which has added about 6 months to the time estimate for the job & means I can't give any detailed advice bases on personal experience - that problem was not only had the welded nut pulled out of the frame (for want of a better word) but all that was left of the shackle box was a rather ragged edged "washer" under the head of the bolt. I'm just grateful it was the left one, as the exhaust being in the way would've been even more of a problem than the fuel filler
Anyway, the theory is you then repeat the whole performance on the other side. Now this might take 6 weeks - but when you come to change the springs, it'll be a simple nut'n'bolt job, you may have had a little aggravation, but none of the stress & anxiety of trying to do a physically, & mentally, demanding job against the clock. So having done all the prep. (i.e. hard work) you should have a comfortable weekend's work ahead of you, rather than wondering how you're going to get this done between getting home one Friday & the small hours of Monday morning, because you need it for work.
Now this all might seem a bit alien but it's an approach I do commend.

 

Good advice, I have been thinking the same. Thank you

 

The bigger the block the more leverage applied to the leafs and greater chance of fatigue and axle wrap. If you use blocks then plan to inspect them time to time. Like anything else.

Better, IMO, is to make a bastard pack. Can be done without removing shackles or front eye bolt. A junkyard XJ main leaf with eyes cutoff under existing main, followed by the rest of the original pack will likely yield 1-2" lift. Bastard packs can work amazing but almost always require some trial and error to hit your goal height and ride.

 

BTW, do you remember what size center bolts go into those leaf springs?

 

Sorry I do not remember. I used S10 springs with XJ main and replaced the center bolt with a set from RE. I had to drill the XJ main and perch to fit. Doing a search I come up with 3/8" RE center bolts and the factory XJ ones I believe are 5/16".

It was worth it for my needs. Best of luck.

 

Thank you, I am just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I tear into it. Good Info from everyone, Thanks again.