The Bilsteins can't take the extra flex.

I have a hitch on mine. It goes:

Nut Strips
Frame
Leaf Sliders
Hitch
Bolts to Nut Strips

 

And dang i was close!

 

Ok thanks

 

Yea I have 5100s and they are good but I need to relocate them in the back for more droop.

 

I gotcha man.

 

So after reading this thread I stopped by the LII site and looked at their pics. This one pic showing it assembled with the leaf in place I noticed there isn't anything to keep the spring bushing from rubbing along the inside of the slider. The outside uses the plastic sliders and the groove gets the bearing, I get that. But is there anything that keeps the bushing from grinding away from contact with the inside of the bracket as it travels foe and aft? Not assuming anything here, just curious? Maybe there is a design aspect involved I'm not seeing or something? Info anyone?

 

Looks like the bushing is handling all the clamping force from the bolt from the pics. Not sure of the strength value of that bushing but a hard side shift looks like it could cause an issue.

Just my .02 i would stick to old fashioned relocation kits. This was right after installing my lift so the rear springs were not broken in yet.

 

I suppose it falls into the "to each, their own" category with stuff like this. I'm a bit old...fashioned heehee so the relocation brackets will be the way I go. I was just curious if there was a perceived "issue" with the way they slide.I'm no engineer but I look with common sense at stuff pretty hard if I'm dropping my $$ on it. And the KISS mentality has served me pretty well so far. With the traditional set up it seems there are less moving parts, therefor less parts to wear over time. *shrugs*

 

What? If anything not having the shackle there it will bind more. On bushing now has to do the work of what 2 normall would. But leaf springs twist. Its gonna happen no matter what
What? Why would you want that?
Not sure. But i dont think these are supposed to be torqued down much at all. Keep them greased and shouldnt be an issue.

 

If you want more lift in the rear and don't want very curved leafs or, like my leafs, have tons of leafs that make a stiff ride, you can build a bit more lift into the box.

My leaf packs suck. But I like the height I'm at. If the slider box left me with less lift than I wanted, I could build more lift into the box.

I actually saw LII post something about it in their introduction thread.

 

I, however, would not use the bolt on slider box. I would use the version that uses more fab skills.

 

Here, directly from LII's product thread...

I wouldn't run a block and traction bar setup, but thats another issue. .



Oh, here is the URL to the thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/li...-parts-101046/

 

I would never take leaves out of my packs without a traction bar. They wrap too much as it is. Flat leaves are good, but lowering the shackle end of the leafspring sucks for departure angle.

 

you're saying less moving parts in a shackle/relocation bracket setup compared to a slider box? id have to dissagree.

slider boxes arent some "new" trend. they have been used for YEARS in drag racing applications and have proven to be very reliable and stable. with a very simple design.

 

So after reading this thread and a few others, are the leaf sliders a good option? I have a 6.5'' leaf pack for my 6.5 lift and I'm using stock shackles. The leafs really haven't been broken in (less than 2k miles), but as for now, it's extremely bumpy on the trails. I thought about the relocation, but I don't want to add an additional 1.5''s. Are these sliders worth the money? Would they help me out?