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hey guys. so i am in the middle of installing my 4.5" RC x-series lift on my 96 xj.
i am currently on the passenger leafs. rear bolt came out fine. i got the front bolt out about 1/8" then slipped off a couple times which lead to stripping the head.
after many hours of frustration trying different extraction methods and searching the forums... i decided to just start cutting. i bought a 4.5" angle grinder and cut the outside (between the leaf and mount) with no problem.
since the bolt is still in the welded nut, i need make another cut on the inside. problem is my 4.5 grinder cannot reach up in there with all the obstructions around there.
i tried using a sawzall with diamond tip but with all the articulation it keeps catching on either the bolt or mount and bending the blade/slamming my hand. i feel like in total i had it on the for 20 minutes and from what i can see it was not making much progress.
any advise on making this cut would be greatly appreciated!
I'd cut the bushing apart, you should be able to get the grinder in there enough to cut the leaf eye in half. Get a razor blade to cut at the rubber. Then you should be able to get a pair of vice grips on there and spin it out. I had to do the same thing both times I installed my lift.
success- after switching blades i was able to get through!
well now my problem is the cut bolt is pretty much flush with the mount. there is no hopes of grabbing it with anything and spinning it out. here is a pic of the aftermath:
would my best plan of attack be cutting a window to the nut now? i was thinking of cutting from the floor down to gain easier access. should i just get a BFH and punch and try to hit it into the rail (hitting from the cut section of the bolt)? should i pound on the welded nut from the window and knock it out that way?
i think i need to go buy an air hammer anyways to deal with the broken upper shock bolts... would this work to knock this out as well?
success- after switching blades i was able to get through!
well now my problem is the cut bolt is pretty much flush with the mount. there is no hopes of grabbing it with anything and spinning it out. here is a pic of the aftermath:
would my best plan of attack be cutting a window to the nut now? i was thinking of cutting from the floor down to gain easier access. should i just get a BFH and punch and try to hit it into the rail (hitting from the cut section of the bolt)? should i pound on the welded nut from the window and knock it out that way?
i think i need to go buy an air hammer anyways to deal with the broken upper shock bolts... would this work to knock this out as well?
thanks for all the help guys!
You may be able to cut a slot in it and back it out with a screwdriver. But a tough as it was to turn, that may not work. Heat it up and give it a shot.
If not, you may need to knock that welded nut off like you said.
Edit: just saw the pic. No way you're slotting that.
it was about 1/8" out when i resorted to cutting. i have a feeling it was just in the perfect alignment that i will not be able to access from either side.
as i mentioned i am thinking of cutting from the top down (from the the floorboards) just for easier access. i already have all the carpeting removed and she ain't the prettiest to begin with so i'm not worried about aesthetics... i think some street sign patches would look cool anyways.
I cut mine from the bottom of the part that houses the bolt. I broke the bolt off trying to put the bolt back I when I did mine. As I said, I cut the bottom out and the no-longer welded bolt came out. I just filed it down and used a wrench to tighten it. I DOES have an edge to center it in the hole so make sure you get that lined up best you can if you resort to the way I did it.
I never sealed it back up but have never had any issues with it though.
Last edited by idahoboarder; 02-09-2015 at 02:13 PM.
was able to borrow a dremel a put a notch in the head. i can get about 90% of my max torque with a flat head in the notch before it slips with this method. for some reason i cannot get the notch any deeper with said dremel. it will not budge the bolt a hair in any directions with this method... i am thinking the bolt is pretty stuck in there as it would not even move with the breaker bar when i still had the bolt head. even after i cut the head and majority of the leaf i could not spin the eye. i had pb blasted everything (including nut inside the rail) for a week in advance and have been using the propane torch very generously.
was able to borrow a dremel a put a notch in the head. i can get about 90% of my max torque with a flat head in the notch before it slips with this method. for some reason i cannot get the notch any deeper with said dremel. it will not budge the bolt a hair in any directions with this method... i am thinking the bolt is pretty stuck in there as it would not even move with the breaker bar when i still had the bolt head. even after i cut the head and majority of the leaf i could not spin the eye. i had pb blasted everything (including nut inside the rail) for a week in advance and have been using the propane torch very generously.
Hate to say it, but if it's not moving with all that heat and PB, it's time to cut an access hole on top or bottom.
Someone may see another way, but I sure don't at this point.
Good luck, you'll get it.
Ouch man, that's an ugly situation. I would say try an easy out as a last resort but I don't think you could get a drill in there. You'll probably have to cut a window
damn... i was worried about that. so if i cut from the bottom like many people recommend... where exactly should i cut it? i really plan on keeping the window open and not even welding a nut... just being able to get a wrench on it whenever i need to.
02-09-2015, 10:20 AM
leaf bolt cutting
