There is nothing wrong with an inverted spring to a point. When using good stock springs you need to bump an inch for every inch you lift it. Otherwise you can break a spring. You add a 2"shackle. Then you need to add 2" bump to it. Stay with this rule and you will never break a good stock spring.

blocks are nice because it moves the axle down and not the spring. So if you do a 2" block you do not have to adjust bump for it. You actually will clear your fender well much better.

 

So you're saying there is no point in buying nice new leaves for a 3" lift. That's what I'm getting from this.

 

i've got no blocks and i get axle wrap...can't imagine if i did have blocks. moving the axle further away from the leafs is essentially like using a longer lever to act on the springs. we all know it's easier to move heavy things with longer pry bars instead of shorter ones. i agree with blocks being 'fine', for the average street driven pavement pounder, but to a guy who really looks to get the full function out of his suspension, lift blocks are usually out of the equation. for good ride, flexibility, and good hill climbing characteristics usually longer springs with a decent shackle angle, and a traction bar to control wrap are really all you need. and obviously, a quality shock absorber to control your leaf springs is required also.

 

Is this thread over yet? leave the blocks to THE PRO's and pavement pounders. Go get a set of ome springs and never look back. Best rideing springs with great reviews. Or bastard pack with good shackle angle. The dakar ome are made in malsia or the ome's are made in australia.

 

The op said he wanted the stock ride.

I advised accordingly.

 

I wheel about 3 times a week. Consider blocks proven.

 

IIRC your "power braking front locker" was "proven" too until... well, you remember.

 

LOL Now I never stated it was durable. I stated it helped lock both wheels up. And it was proven to be the same as throwing a grenade in your diff housing. ha, ha.

 

Well, this guy asked for advice, and he got alot of it. Personally, I would shoot for a bastard pack of some sort at that height. Never dealt with OME, but have heard nice things. SMALL blocks aren't that bad (I've only ran them on 80's Chevy trucks, have no experience with XJ's and blocks), but I would personally go for new leaves, or longer shackle with relocation brackets. And RC isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be, they've really picked up the quality in the past few years.

 

In my experience with the xj. If you stay at 2in. You don't need to mess with your track bar, or lca's.

For mine, once I went with 3in rc springs in the front, outside of riding like a truck. I really need an adjustable track bar, and adjustable upper and lower lca's to get it spot on. I drilled the track bar hole over 3/4 inch and its still not right.

So if I were to want to do it right with a 3in. I would buy upper and lower lca's adjustable, and an adjustable track bar.

2in seemed just fine stock.

Rear also. I am about 3.5-4 in unloaded in the rear. And without a transfer case lowering kit(which I won't buy one) I get a little vibrations. The angled 1.5in block helped alot with vibes. With 2in in the rear I had no problems with anything.

So for me 2in would be hassle free and I can still run my 33's.

If you think about it. If you went with new stock springs and 2in angled blocks. You would not even have to change the bump stops!! Or 1.5" block and nice 1in extended shackles. Would work and ride great.

2in spacers up front.

No messing with all that stuff for an extra inch. Just not worth it unless you are dead set on 3in.

 

no disrespect, but, you're one guy on the internet. levers and simple machines (specifically class three) are basic physics. kinda hard to argue with those laws. but i understand that they work for you, (that's what's proven) and you are happy with your set up, which is what every jeeper strives for. different strokes for different folks.

 

No problem. I am one guy with one opinion.

I understand physics. 1.5in is not that big of a lever. 8in on the other hand is.

Honestly if i got wheel hop on hills, or serious axle wrap, or basically anything negative. I would ditch the blocks in a heart beat. Working for a 4wd suspension shop/mod shop, I can get springs cheap. That is not the issue. And I certainly would not want anything I would have to think about on the trail. I don't want to have to worry one bit!!

I have 170 acres to wheel on at my work. And I am single. So I am lucky enough to be able to wheel and mess around a few days a weak.



Again I am not saying anything is better than the other. But you can do some fun wheeling, and a lot of it safely and with good flex using stock springs and short blocks. OME lifts and others are great. But if you want that stock ride with great performance. Don't look past good stock springs. That is all.

 

I got a stock cherokee that had death wobbles. Took out all the gross looking parts replaced them all and now she's good. I have kinda the same idea as you don't want a sketchy ride but bottom line, it's all about the maintenance you do. Keep the front end aligned and tight and you shouldn't have any problems with any lift height. I'm personally gonna go with the 4.5" lift with 33, need that little extra flex

 

You're wasting your breathe. This dude is going to spend the next 32 pages praising how his 32 dollar lift is ten times better than any other on the market. He's even got flexy speed holes drilled in his leaf springs.

 

And you will be right there telling the world they need lockers and long arms on their mall crawler.