IRO 4 or 5.5 tech question?
12-12-2011, 10:36 PM
#1
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IRO 4 or 5.5 tech question?
ok I think Ive done it. I picked a company for the lift kit.
I know this is in the wrong spot, I just feel like L and T thread is over killed and it felt crowded posting there. sorry
Ive heard good stuff about the IRO critical path
but they dont have the 4.5in which I wanted
they have the 4in long arm and the 5.5in long arm
I want to run 33's and hit rubicon trail and fordyce creek
can I make it on the 4in?
what width tires with the 4 and 5.5
does 1.5 inches make a difference in lift? should I cough up the extra $300 to get the 5.5?
what will the added inches affect? balance, mpg, gearing, tcase drop, etc.
also, which of these upgrades would you absolutely recommend for a budget xj?
I plan on absolutely doing the hackntap sye and driveshaft bare minimum
Add Our Hack-N-Tap Slip Yoke Eliminator AND a refurbished driveshaft: $199.99
Add a Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator: $199.99
Add a Mega Short HD Slip Yoke Eliminator: $279.99
Add a custom double cardan style driveshaft: $249.99
Upgrade to JKS Quicker Disconnects: $89.99
Upgrade to adjustable length long arms: $100.00
I know this is in the wrong spot, I just feel like L and T thread is over killed and it felt crowded posting there. sorry
Ive heard good stuff about the IRO critical path
but they dont have the 4.5in which I wanted
they have the 4in long arm and the 5.5in long arm
I want to run 33's and hit rubicon trail and fordyce creek
can I make it on the 4in?
what width tires with the 4 and 5.5
does 1.5 inches make a difference in lift? should I cough up the extra $300 to get the 5.5?
what will the added inches affect? balance, mpg, gearing, tcase drop, etc.
also, which of these upgrades would you absolutely recommend for a budget xj?
I plan on absolutely doing the hackntap sye and driveshaft bare minimum
Add Our Hack-N-Tap Slip Yoke Eliminator AND a refurbished driveshaft: $199.99
Add a Heavy Duty Slip Yoke Eliminator: $199.99
Add a Mega Short HD Slip Yoke Eliminator: $279.99
Add a custom double cardan style driveshaft: $249.99
Upgrade to JKS Quicker Disconnects: $89.99
Upgrade to adjustable length long arms: $100.00
12-12-2011, 11:25 PM
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
IMO yes its worth the $300 extra. You will get full leaf springs, not an AAL. A new trac bar with double shear mounts. Also the 1.5" higher you will sit will allow for a 33" tire to fit better then the 4", however with the 4" it will fit nice and keep you lower, but you will have to trim more to get the full flex out of that kit then you would with the 5.5". The IRO kit flexes and works well from what I have seen, The kit I have seen in person did not have adjustable arms IIRC.
I would recommend going with a Full SYE kit. If its from them or not, all will end up close to 200 shipped. and then grab a auto front drive-line and use it as the rear. HNT are ok, but IMO a lame alternative when you have a 231. only cheaper option but by 25$ lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-YJ-TJ-M...item3cb26d49c9
the super short SYE is not worth the extra money for the XJ. no need for custom shafts either, you can run a front as your rear and it works just fine.
I would recommend 5.5" lift. it worked well with my 33's, and even better with cut out flares and 35's, just high enough, but lower and stable on 35's.
After adding a lift kit with the Rubicon in mind sliders and lockers would be the next step IMO (if you don't have them already
)
I would recommend going with a Full SYE kit. If its from them or not, all will end up close to 200 shipped. and then grab a auto front drive-line and use it as the rear. HNT are ok, but IMO a lame alternative when you have a 231. only cheaper option but by 25$ lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-YJ-TJ-M...item3cb26d49c9
the super short SYE is not worth the extra money for the XJ. no need for custom shafts either, you can run a front as your rear and it works just fine.
I would recommend 5.5" lift. it worked well with my 33's, and even better with cut out flares and 35's, just high enough, but lower and stable on 35's.
After adding a lift kit with the Rubicon in mind sliders and lockers would be the next step IMO (if you don't have them already
)
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 12-12-2011 at 11:27 PM.
12-12-2011, 11:27 PM
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
x2
5.5's a good height. not too tall but will still fit some 35's with minor trimming and bump stopping. because sooner or later you will be running 35's.
5.5's a good height. not too tall but will still fit some 35's with minor trimming and bump stopping. because sooner or later you will be running 35's.
12-13-2011, 01:01 AM
#4
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IMO yes its worth the $300 extra. You will get full leaf springs, not an AAL. A new trac bar with double shear mounts. Also the 1.5" higher you will sit will allow for a 33" tire to fit better then the 4", however with the 4" it will fit nice and keep you lower, but you will have to trim more to get the full flex out of that kit then you would with the 5.5". The IRO kit flexes and works well from what I have seen, The kit I have seen in person did not have adjustable arms IIRC.
I would recommend going with a Full SYE kit. If its from them or not, all will end up close to 200 shipped. and then grab a auto front drive-line and use it as the rear. HNT are ok, but IMO a lame alternative when you have a 231. only cheaper option but by 25$ lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-YJ-TJ-M...item3cb26d49c9
the super short SYE is not worth the extra money for the XJ. no need for custom shafts either, you can run a front as your rear and it works just fine.
I would recommend 5.5" lift. it worked well with my 33's, and even better with cut out flares and 35's, just high enough, but lower and stable on 35's.
After adding a lift kit with the Rubicon in mind sliders and lockers would be the next step IMO (if you don't have them already )
I would recommend going with a Full SYE kit. If its from them or not, all will end up close to 200 shipped. and then grab a auto front drive-line and use it as the rear. HNT are ok, but IMO a lame alternative when you have a 231. only cheaper option but by 25$ lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-YJ-TJ-M...item3cb26d49c9
the super short SYE is not worth the extra money for the XJ. no need for custom shafts either, you can run a front as your rear and it works just fine.
I would recommend 5.5" lift. it worked well with my 33's, and even better with cut out flares and 35's, just high enough, but lower and stable on 35's.
After adding a lift kit with the Rubicon in mind sliders and lockers would be the next step IMO (if you don't have them already
)oh and of course. I've got access to a tig and plan on the full armor and recovery.
already found blueprints for front stinger/winch bumper and rockers in threads on this site.
I'm really stoked about the IRO long arm. its the first lift thats really jumped out at me I'll go with 5.5 when the time comes
12-13-2011, 01:03 AM
#5
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Year: 93 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
but I'm obsessing over all this stuff that I cant get out of my head. haha
I got the fever son!
12-13-2011, 01:06 AM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I <3 IRO I've used it on all of my buddies zjs and my girlies old ZJ 
For xjs I've no clue.. but I will say the Xj front drive shaft works as a rear if you have a real sye
Sent From My Toyota Recovery Vehicle.
For xjs I've no clue.. but I will say the Xj front drive shaft works as a rear if you have a real sye
Sent From My Toyota Recovery Vehicle.
12-13-2011, 01:17 AM
#7
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Year: 93 2 door
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that way I dont have to deal with finding correct parts or what fits doing to much cutting
the only thing thats so appealing about the hackntap is that it includes a driveshaft.
is the referbished driveshaft worth anything? or can I use the old one without having to shorten it or whatever you have to do
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12-13-2011, 01:32 AM
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Year: 2000
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I just really like that IRO offers to send all the parts needed to do it in one go
that way I dont have to deal with finding correct parts or what fits doing to much cutting
the only thing thats so appealing about the hackntap is that it includes a driveshaft.
is the referbished driveshaft worth anything? or can I use the old one without having to shorten it or whatever you have to do
that way I dont have to deal with finding correct parts or what fits doing to much cutting
the only thing thats so appealing about the hackntap is that it includes a driveshaft.
is the referbished driveshaft worth anything? or can I use the old one without having to shorten it or whatever you have to do
12-13-2011, 02:40 AM
#9
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Year: 93 2 door
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alright. and what about the quicker disconnects and adjustable long arms?
useful enough to find room in my budget?
useful enough to find room in my budget?
12-13-2011, 09:36 AM
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Year: 1996
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Engine: l6 4.0
there are ways of getting around disconnects. you can just throw away your sway bar alltogether, or just take off one link when your off roading. very easy just one bolt. takes less time then my buddies with disconnects.
adjustable arms will make it easy to fine tune your suspension if you ever change height or wanna push your axle forward a little. both of these are useful but not needed
12-13-2011, 10:19 AM
#11
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One thing I find really stupid about the IRO 5.5 lifts is that they are 3.5 leafs with 2" shackles, yet with theyre next size up they include 5.5" leafs.
12-13-2011, 10:21 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by Dan91
One thing I find really stupid about the IRO 5.5 lifts is that they are 3.5 leafs with 2" shackles, yet with theyre next size up they include 5.5" leafs.
12-13-2011, 10:25 AM
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12-13-2011, 01:13 PM
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there are ways of getting around disconnects. you can just throw away your sway bar alltogether, or just take off one link when your off roading. very easy just one bolt. takes less time then my buddies with disconnects.
adjustable arms will make it easy to fine tune your suspension if you ever change height or wanna push your axle forward a little. both of these are useful but not needed
adjustable arms will make it easy to fine tune your suspension if you ever change height or wanna push your axle forward a little. both of these are useful but not needed
that sounds fine. as long as I can disconnect fairly easily for full potential
12-13-2011, 01:53 PM
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Year: 1989
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Yeah the one bolt thing works great if you carry torx bits and a crescent wrench/right sized wrench.
I have always hated sway bars on lifted rigs..
Sent From My Toyota Recovery Vehicle.
I have always hated sway bars on lifted rigs..
Sent From My Toyota Recovery Vehicle.