All of their arms are the same length (outside the adjustables, which I'm running) so that won't matter but I know they carry 4.5" springs; I bought mine from them (and love them btw)

I run their arms and love those too. Easy to rebuild and solid as all hell. I can't comment about the non-adjustables though b/c I've never used them but I will agree with a aforementioned comment about ease of fine tuning. You would think they need to be adjustable. I bought mine new from a guy who didn't install his off craigslist; $200 off list price. When I called IRO about getting 4.5" springs, I asked about the arms. Before knowing that I had a set, Luke encouraged me to buy the non-adjustables but agreed that a new adjustables for $400 was a better deal.

Now, if I would only get newer, longer, shocks I could really take advantage of that articulation.

 

so whats so cool about the double cardan driveshaft?

 

It has 2 u-joints which allows both joints to take some of the angle and both joints pivot on a ball-pin that keep them centered or aligned so the double cardan joint can handle a lot bigger angle without binding. a single joint has to take all the angle on its own, which can bind and cause vibrations and bushings to where out in the output of the t/case. Double cardan is the only way to go IMO over a 4" lift.

 

so I should basically buy all the upgrades I can afford

 

well you can do it in steps. but IMO the 5.5" kit, with a SYE and front drive-line would be great all at once. just don't buy something you may have to replace later. that's my best advice lol

even if you buy the kit, let it sit for a few checks and then order the SYE and get a good used front drive-line....

 

I plan on swapping axles first HP D30 and rear D44 with minor restoration
then the 5.5, sye, re-gear, rims and tires all at once.
then test it out at a dirt OHV park and save up for lockers and armor
and more upgrades like knuckle covers and quicker diss and adj long arms

 

also, the best part of having a stock front shaft in the rear is you only have to carry one spare drive-line as it would bolt in front or rear.

 

why buy the 5.5, then later buy it with adjustable arms? or are you going to get a short arm and then upgrade to long arm?

 

I thought you could buy the adjustable arms as future upgrades

 

you can, but its 250$ extra to buy it later then it is as one kit. either way will work. its just throwing out more money for the same thing overall.

 

It's just so hard saving up all that money at once.
I guess I should just do it all right the first time
good advice I appreciate it
as long as the long arm 5.5 stays as my number one choice until I purchase ha

 

Acorrding to iro there long arms that are not adjustable are good for 4.5 to 8... so you wouldn't have to change anything but springs and shackles

 

Am I invisible?

 

Sorry bro I don't even see your post at first look