I understand the inverted T steering makes a big improvement when going off road. My question is what about on the street, when just hitting potholes or road bumps? Is the front steering/suspension making enough of a movement to warrant the $300+ for a DD rig? I have another thread trying to trouble shoot my ride problems.
I have heard that the inverted T kits are a huge difference, but I haven't heard anything specifically about a DD, street driven mostly rig. I hit some fire roads/trout stream trails, but if this thing handles like a monkey balancing on a bowling ball now-I gasp at the though of anything more extreme.
Any guys get the Serious kit or something similar at 4.5" lift and notice instant improvement when hitting mere pot holes/bumps on the street?
I really need to justify spending $300+ on something that in my DD drive won't improve the ride.
If anyone is a math freak, maybe the can do some angle comparison and formulate how much better of a angle/relationship the Serious kit is vs. stock. I mean, if you are board and all…...
I have heard that the inverted T kits are a huge difference, but I haven't heard anything specifically about a DD, street driven mostly rig. I hit some fire roads/trout stream trails, but if this thing handles like a monkey balancing on a bowling ball now-I gasp at the though of anything more extreme.
Any guys get the Serious kit or something similar at 4.5" lift and notice instant improvement when hitting mere pot holes/bumps on the street?
I really need to justify spending $300+ on something that in my DD drive won't improve the ride.
If anyone is a math freak, maybe the can do some angle comparison and formulate how much better of a angle/relationship the Serious kit is vs. stock. I mean, if you are board and all…...
Search Grand Cherokee drag link upgrade.-I have this, I should have noted that but I don't consider it a significant upgrade to note for my particular issue.
It's only "upgrade" is the thickness. Correct? That won't help me since I have one, and it's the "angle of the dangle" that is the question I need answered.
Thank you for your consideration though. Correct me if I am wrong about the GC tie rod. I do have one on it now.
Thank you Serious (MY name is actually Chris, but it's funny you called me Vinnie because I have a Doppelgänger out there named Vinnie. EVERYONE says we look the same, talk the same, joke the same, we even have the same rare ethnicity!
I do value your input Frank. I've read the reviews. I just am a very literal person and needed to hear people say that it makes a big difference on the street too.
It's only "upgrade" is the thickness. Correct? That won't help me since I have one, and it's the "angle of the dangle" that is the question I need answered.
Thank you for your consideration though. Correct me if I am wrong about the GC tie rod. I do have one on it now.
Thank you Serious (MY name is actually Chris, but it's funny you called me Vinnie because I have a Doppelgänger out there named Vinnie. EVERYONE says we look the same, talk the same, joke the same, we even have the same rare ethnicity!
I do value your input Frank. I've read the reviews. I just am a very literal person and needed to hear people say that it makes a big difference on the street too.
Frank, since I am leaning toward you (You have awesome customer service on this forum), I want the easiest to install kit. UTK right? If so, what is cheaper tool wise. The reamer or the large drill bit for the insert model? Part number for your suggestion?
CF Veteran
That's what has kept me away from drilling in the past. ^^
I would try looking around on forums for someone to let you borrow one, if not, buy the reamer and you could sell it when done.
I would try looking around on forums for someone to let you borrow one, if not, buy the reamer and you could sell it when done.