Identifying lift type.
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Identifying lift type.
Hello all, I just bought a lifted XJ, the people I bought it from got it with the lift already installed as the previous owner was planning on turning it into a rock crawler so neither of us have any idea what the lift type is. I took some photos if anyone could help so I know what I need to replace/look for instead of just throwing a whole new lift kit into it. If there are any specific photos or better ones needed I can take them ASAP. Thanks.
Last edited by JKosiba95; 11-24-2018 at 05:50 PM.
#2
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Welcome to the site JKosiba95 !
If the rest of shocks have the sky jacker I would think its a skyjacker lift has aftermarket front arms and a track bar hard to tell about rest Its really hard to tell would be guess
If the rest of shocks have the sky jacker I would think its a skyjacker lift has aftermarket front arms and a track bar hard to tell about rest Its really hard to tell would be guess
Last edited by RockinRonnie; 11-24-2018 at 05:26 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks!
That's what I forgot to take a pic of, but yeah it does have skyjacker shocks as well. So I'm guess its a skyjacker AAL kit? They think its a 4" lift but wasn't sure on anything about it. Is there anything I should specifically look at to replace to make sure the suspension is solid?
That's what I forgot to take a pic of, but yeah it does have skyjacker shocks as well. So I'm guess its a skyjacker AAL kit? They think its a 4" lift but wasn't sure on anything about it. Is there anything I should specifically look at to replace to make sure the suspension is solid?
#4
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My advice is to start over and do it right, not that anything is wrong, just take your base and make it yours.
You need to start with a clean canvas and go from there.
You need to start with a clean canvas and go from there.
#5
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your rear shackles look pretty vertical. Consider shackle relocation brackets so that the shackle is 45 degrees and you get a softer ride and more rear articulation. If your lift components have zerk fittings regrease everything.
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm trying to do it as a budget build Overland/DD project. No crazy rock crawling. So I'm trying to keep what I can that it came with and solidify from there.
#7
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Year: 1990
Engine: Renix 4.0
I think it looks pretty good.
It doesn't look to be a kit. Either that or some parts were changed.
Without part numbers it's extremely hard to tell.
You could always ask the previous owner.
Are the upper / lower control arms adjustable? More pictures of those will help.
Nice Tank skid and track bar.
Good tires for your application.
Shocks and springs look good (from behind the desk lol)
The shackles look closer to 45* IMO. I think it's just the angle of the picture.
It has a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear, It looks like it is re-geared and/or has lockers (could be welded) Most people will only paint the diff covers after doing a bit of work.
The frame looks to be rust free.
A couple of things caught my eye
You need a front swaybar and swaybar links.
It looks like it used to have jks quicker disconnects that were removed.
I recommend a 28mm or 1 1/8" swaybar from a v8 zj or xj limited (junkyard is the only way to go). Make sure you take the mounts, bushings, and hardware as well.
You should also replace those swaybar links. I recommend the jks or rubicon express quick disconnects.
Extended bumpstops on the front would also be a good idea.
It doesn't look to be a kit. Either that or some parts were changed.
Without part numbers it's extremely hard to tell.
You could always ask the previous owner.
Are the upper / lower control arms adjustable? More pictures of those will help.
Nice Tank skid and track bar.
Good tires for your application.
Shocks and springs look good (from behind the desk lol)
The shackles look closer to 45* IMO. I think it's just the angle of the picture.
It has a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear, It looks like it is re-geared and/or has lockers (could be welded) Most people will only paint the diff covers after doing a bit of work.
The frame looks to be rust free.
A couple of things caught my eye
You need a front swaybar and swaybar links.
It looks like it used to have jks quicker disconnects that were removed.
I recommend a 28mm or 1 1/8" swaybar from a v8 zj or xj limited (junkyard is the only way to go). Make sure you take the mounts, bushings, and hardware as well.
You should also replace those swaybar links. I recommend the jks or rubicon express quick disconnects.
Extended bumpstops on the front would also be a good idea.
Last edited by craigjacob1; 11-24-2018 at 06:47 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Nice Tank skid and track bar.
Good tires for your application.
Shocks and springs look good (from behind the desk lol)
The shackles look closer to 45* IMO. I think it's just the angle of the picture.
It has a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear, It looks like it is re-geared and/or has lockers (could be welded) Most people will only paint the diff covers after doing a bit of work.
The frame looks to be rust free.
Good tires for your application.
Shocks and springs look good (from behind the desk lol)
The shackles look closer to 45* IMO. I think it's just the angle of the picture.
It has a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear, It looks like it is re-geared and/or has lockers (could be welded) Most people will only paint the diff covers after doing a bit of work.
The frame looks to be rust free.
A couple of things caught my eye
You need a front swaybar and swaybar links.
It looks like it used to have jks quicker disconnects that were removed.
I recommend a 28mm or 1 1/8" swaybar from a v8 zj or xj limited (junkyard is the only way to go). Make sure you take the mounts, bushings, and hardware as well.
You should also replace those swaybar links. I recommend the jks or rubicon express quick disconnects.
You need a front swaybar and swaybar links.
It looks like it used to have jks quicker disconnects that were removed.
I recommend a 28mm or 1 1/8" swaybar from a v8 zj or xj limited (junkyard is the only way to go). Make sure you take the mounts, bushings, and hardware as well.
You should also replace those swaybar links. I recommend the jks or rubicon express quick disconnects.
But it looks pretty solid right? How much of it would I be able to keep if I wanted to go higher on the lift? I like the looks of high lifted vehicles so its more of an appearance thing than anything so I was thinking of doing spacers/shackle lift? Just don't want to compromise it as a DD. Or if it would be better what would I need to add say 2" of lift(so it goes up to 5.5/6") without spending $1000 on a whole kit?
Last edited by JKosiba95; 11-24-2018 at 07:24 PM.
#9
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Year: 1990
Engine: Renix 4.0
Buying one new is a waste of money IMO
CL would be the place. You should be able to get one for $20-$30
You can find one a sway bay ebay, but most do not have the diameters listed. It will cost 2 - 4 times more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer-Bar-Front-Fits-96-98-GRAND-CHEROKEE-67065/292735319496?fits=Year%3A1998%7CModel%3AGrand+Cher okee%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item4428627dc8:g:zKUAAOSw2 rZbowQP:rk:2f:0&LH_ItemCondition=4
You could buy that one. It will work, but the size is a crap shoot. I would personally want the largest diameter possible.
But it looks pretty solid right? How much of it would I be able to keep if I wanted to go higher on the lift? I like the looks of high lifted vehicles so its more of an appearance thing than anything so I was thinking of doing spacers/shackle lift? Just don't want to compromise it as a DD.
The only reason to add spacers would be to level or add larger tires.
I can tell you with short arms in front it's already on the edge of too much lift.
To space another 1" (the right way) it is going to cost you.
You could keep your coil springs, leaf springs, brake lines, and track bar..
Without part numbers from your shocks, and the actual lift height of your jeep, there's no way to tell if they can go higher.
Long arms or control arm drop brackets would be necessary.
Your steering would likely need to be upgraded as well.
Last edited by craigjacob1; 11-24-2018 at 08:00 PM.
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Search around here using google. There is quite a bit of information out there on the subject.
Unless you literally live under a rock I find this hard to believe.
Buying one new is a waste of money IMO
CL would be the place. You should be able to get one for $20-$30
You can find one a sway bay ebay, but most do not have the diameters listed. It will cost 2 - 4 times more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer-Bar-Front-Fits-96-98-GRAND-CHEROKEE-67065/292735319496?fits=Year%3A1998%7CModel%3AGrand+Cher okee%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item4428627dc8:g:zKUAAOSw2 rZbowQP:rk:2f:0&LH_ItemCondition=4
You could buy that one. It will work, but the size is a crap shoot. I would personally want the largest diameter possible.
As-is I say yes it looks pretty solid.
The only reason to add spacers would be to level or add larger tires.
I can tell you with short arms in front it's already on the edge of too much lift.
To space another 1" (the right way) it is going to cost you.
You could keep your coil springs, leaf springs, brake lines, and track bar. Everything else suspension related probably has to go.
Your steering would likely need to be upgraded as well.
Unless you literally live under a rock I find this hard to believe.
Buying one new is a waste of money IMO
CL would be the place. You should be able to get one for $20-$30
You can find one a sway bay ebay, but most do not have the diameters listed. It will cost 2 - 4 times more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer-Bar-Front-Fits-96-98-GRAND-CHEROKEE-67065/292735319496?fits=Year%3A1998%7CModel%3AGrand+Cher okee%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item4428627dc8:g:zKUAAOSw2 rZbowQP:rk:2f:0&LH_ItemCondition=4
You could buy that one. It will work, but the size is a crap shoot. I would personally want the largest diameter possible.
As-is I say yes it looks pretty solid.
The only reason to add spacers would be to level or add larger tires.
I can tell you with short arms in front it's already on the edge of too much lift.
To space another 1" (the right way) it is going to cost you.
You could keep your coil springs, leaf springs, brake lines, and track bar. Everything else suspension related probably has to go.
Your steering would likely need to be upgraded as well.
People in Wyoming like to hold onto their Jeeps even when they're scrap. Its annoying. The only place I've reliably found older Jeeps is about 2hr away but I also haven't been to a junkyard since summer.
EDIT: I'll get the part numbers from the shocks and measure the lift tomorrow.
Last edited by JKosiba95; 11-24-2018 at 08:18 PM.
#11
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Year: 1990
Engine: Renix 4.0
Could I do a control arm drop bracket, spacers, adjustable shackles and or shackle relocation to hit 1.5"/2" more? I eventually want to go up to 35" tires.
People in Wyoming like to hold onto their Jeeps even when they're scrap. Its annoying. The only place I've reliably found older Jeeps is about 2hr away but I also haven't been to a junkyard since summer.
People in Wyoming like to hold onto their Jeeps even when they're scrap. Its annoying. The only place I've reliably found older Jeeps is about 2hr away but I also haven't been to a junkyard since summer.
The specifics before making recommendations
1: Pictures of the control arms
2: Part numbers on both the front and rear shocks
3: Actual lift height (google search)
4: Pictures of the rear driveshaft at the transfer case ( if you're going up that high you need a slip yoke eliminator )
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yes, but keep in mind that you already listed almost $400 in parts, and there are other modifications that will need to be made.
The specifics before making recommendations
1: Pictures of the control arms
2: Part numbers on both the front and rear shocks
3: Actual lift height (google search)
4: Pictures of the rear driveshaft at the transfer case ( if you're going up that high you need a slip yoke eliminator )
The specifics before making recommendations
1: Pictures of the control arms
2: Part numbers on both the front and rear shocks
3: Actual lift height (google search)
4: Pictures of the rear driveshaft at the transfer case ( if you're going up that high you need a slip yoke eliminator )
$400 is much more doable than $1000+ for a kit. I'll get all this stuff tomorrow.
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here are the pics. The shocks had no name or anything so I took a pic of the part number I think.
Lift measurement was around 10.75-11 on front and back from axle tube to frame rail.
Front Shocks
Rear Shocks
Upper Control Arm?
TCase
TCase
Lower control arm?
Lift measurement was around 10.75-11 on front and back from axle tube to frame rail.
Front Shocks
Rear Shocks
Upper Control Arm?
TCase
TCase
Lower control arm?
Last edited by JKosiba95; 11-25-2018 at 02:03 PM.
#14
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Year: 1990
Engine: Renix 4.0
Your lift is already at about 5"
Front Shocks - H7056 Skyjacker Front Hydro Shocks 87-96 Jeep Wrangler YJ 2-2.5″ Front
These are for a 2.5" lift.
These Need To Be Replaced With Longer Shocks!
Rear Shocks - H7088 Skyjacker Front Hydro Shocks 87-96 Jeep Wrangler YJ 3-6" Lift
These are sized for a 3.5-5" lift.
You do have a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). That is good.
Your control arms are not adjustable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Bad News -
If you do ANY sort of spacing on the lift you will need new shocks, adjustable control arms (long arms recommended), spacers, adjustable shackles and or shackle relocation, and upgraded steering.
This will easily put you into the $1000 - 1500+ range.
No, you won't be able to do it for less.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would personally keep the 5" lift. If it rides fine, and you aren't going to do any crazy wheeling there's no reason to go higher.
Make sure you get a sway bar in ASAP. That is what keeps the body from swaying, and is meant to protect you from rollovers.
You also need adjustable sway bar links to go with it.
Get the front shocks swapped out with the correct length. You need front shocks for a 5" - 6" lift.
Add extended bump stops to the front (probably the rear too). You need something to bottom out on (other than the tire)
Front Shocks - H7056 Skyjacker Front Hydro Shocks 87-96 Jeep Wrangler YJ 2-2.5″ Front
These are for a 2.5" lift.
These Need To Be Replaced With Longer Shocks!
Rear Shocks - H7088 Skyjacker Front Hydro Shocks 87-96 Jeep Wrangler YJ 3-6" Lift
These are sized for a 3.5-5" lift.
You do have a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). That is good.
Your control arms are not adjustable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Bad News -
If you do ANY sort of spacing on the lift you will need new shocks, adjustable control arms (long arms recommended), spacers, adjustable shackles and or shackle relocation, and upgraded steering.
This will easily put you into the $1000 - 1500+ range.
No, you won't be able to do it for less.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I would personally keep the 5" lift. If it rides fine, and you aren't going to do any crazy wheeling there's no reason to go higher.
Make sure you get a sway bar in ASAP. That is what keeps the body from swaying, and is meant to protect you from rollovers.
You also need adjustable sway bar links to go with it.
Get the front shocks swapped out with the correct length. You need front shocks for a 5" - 6" lift.
Add extended bump stops to the front (probably the rear too). You need something to bottom out on (other than the tire)
Last edited by craigjacob1; 11-25-2018 at 06:41 PM.
#15
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Is Rubicon express good for front shocks? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubicon-Exp...J/182611460150
I'm only looking to go to 5.5 at most but not really too worried about it, was more worried about making sure everything looked solid underneath.
What would be a good brand and size of leaf spring to replace the rear leafs with? They're pretty rusted and one is starting to sag so my jeep leans to the passenger side slightly.
Thanks again for the help.
I'm only looking to go to 5.5 at most but not really too worried about it, was more worried about making sure everything looked solid underneath.
What would be a good brand and size of leaf spring to replace the rear leafs with? They're pretty rusted and one is starting to sag so my jeep leans to the passenger side slightly.
Thanks again for the help.
Last edited by JKosiba95; 11-25-2018 at 07:13 PM.