AudiViruz

So it looks like I will be in the market for a XJ. I was looking at some online and was thinking that I should go with a 2000-2001 I would like it with as little to no rust, but I live in New England and that might be a problem. I was thinking that I could buy one from the south and drive it here and do a under carriage treatment. I have been searching on the forum for a few days now and it looks like it's the place to be for anything related to the XJ. But I have a few questions.

What are some of the major issue with the XJ? I like to work on my cars so I can get most of the maintenance done myself and any other small thing that might come up, except for any major engine or transmission problem.

I would assume that at the price range that I'm looking at $5000 and the mileage that follows, that maybe the suspension components would need some attention. New fluids all around for the transfers case, transmission, axles, brake, and the basic tune up stuff. I have read about the sagging real leaf springs, but I'm pretty sure that I will be lifting it 3" RC with new rear leaf springs. Any other things to look at, timing belt?

What tire size is 31x10.5? is it 265/75/15? and what brand would you recommend for mostly city driving and good for the winter snow? I was looking at the BF Goodrich KO's but I couldn't find them for a 15' wheel was looking at the Soft 8.


Any help would be great.

blue_on_blackXJ

Some common problems are rust as you mentioned and the heads on 00 and 01 models are prone to cracking, upper shock bolts breaking, and some other minor things. In your price range you oughtta find a very nice low mileage rig. Shoot for a 98 or 99. At for tires a 31 10.50 15 is about a 245 75 16. I'm not sure how you couldn't fund the BFGs for a 15" rim. They're super super common. However I hate those tires with a burning passion. The only thing they got going for them is I've seem them go for 90k+ miles, but that's only because the rubber compound on them is so god damn hard. Look at some Goodyear duratracs. I've had two sets on two rigs and lived them each time. I currently have hankook dynapros on my current WJ and am very happy with them as well. In fact today I towed a buddy's car up an ice covered hill without slipping a tire.

TheCK4x4

You got your grand Cherokee ???

notop46

No timing belt on a Cherokee. It is a chain.
X2^ on the 2000 cylinder head

Decent ones can be found in Charleston for:
$2500 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2666503346.html & http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2668557309.html
$2750 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2662591385.html Needs a header panel, but good looking leather.
$4200 http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2669526619.html for a nice Grand

I hope this helps.

Jallen9

i was also looking for an 00-01. I ended up getting it despite the cracking head problem. I liked the coil-on-plug fuel system, and from what I hear, all it takes is some heat shielding between the fuel lines and exhaust manifold or a header (gale banks, i think?) to solve the head problem. Or an aluminum head, but that is some kind of expensive preventative maintenance. I'd verify that information, though, as I am also fairly new to the xj world.

blue_on_blackXJ

I think you're thinkin of the heat soak problem because no way is a header gonna keep your head from cracking if it were otherwise going to.

Jallen9

that's just what I read, I could be wrong. i didn't know exactly how fuel lines being too close to the head would be affected by a header. i figured the header was wrapped and it kept underhood temps down somehow.

gvns8

You are thinking of the exhaust header. The cracks tend to occur in the head not the headers.

07Negative

I've only read a few things about the 2000 & 2001 heads cracking. I've had both years. All with 250k miles on them. Never had a head crack. I have had manifolds crack on me. Both stock and after market.
Jeeps leak like British vehicles. Oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket from my experience.
The power windows and locks will get funky after a while. But that's normal. The tail gate handle can be funky too. I've only had that issue w my current jeep though. Depending on weather. They can over heat in the hot summers. But for all around durability. I'd argue whether or not you can beat a XJ. Stay on regular maintenance and your good. I would expect nothing less of 200,000 miles out of a XJ that hasn't been horribly abused.
Certain things suck butt to fix. But nothing a few vulgar words can't fix.
The BFG A/T tires last a long time. But I'd be more inclined to go with the Goodyear Duratracks. Cheaper and a great tire.

s14unimog

and this is Advanced tech for what reason again?

bigvig

Maybe Im partial because I own a 99, or maybe I own a 99 because I did some serious research, but a 98 or 99 is the way to go if you want to work on it cheap, easy and have very little trouble. Distributor instead of coil pack and no 0331 head are two MAJOR issues in my opinion. But hey, do whatever you like, Im sure there are many guys driving 2000 and 01's who have never had an issue.

As for the rust, if nothing is OBVIOUS, there probably isnt any. Ive had mine in Maine since 2002 and its a daily driver with 140K on her. She sees the road just about every day of the year regardless of the weather. The ONLY rust on her was the floor pan because I had water leaking in and pooled under the carpet, rotting out the floor. Thats the ONLY place you need to look good and hard. Had I not peeled up the carpet you would have never known it was there given the fact that it has a thick coat of rubber undercoating from the factory on it. Thats the post youll want to check good and hard. But even if its rusty, doing a new floor isnt hard and you can probably get a real sweet deal on one with bad floors.