Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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How to lower an XJ and go road racing-

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by IXNAYXJ
Yeah, that guy's high. The AW4 is extremely reliable, never heard about the lockup TC being an issue. FWIW, for our next race we're running a tranny controller from RADesigns which will keep the TC from locking up at all. That's one of the nice things about the AW4 is it's electronically controlled, so you can tell it what to do fairly easily.

I also saw the comment on the Chump forum about the transmission being a Tremec T-5...NO it is not. In pre '90 XJ/MJs it is the HORRIBLE Peugeot BA-10, then in Post '90-'99 it's the pretty good AX-15, then from 2000+ the slightly better NV3550. Never been a T-5, WC or otherwise.

The Ford 8.8 axle you want is from a 199-2000 Ford Explorer of any type. To narrow that down, the ultimate is one equipped with a limited slip differential (Ford calls it Traction-Lock) and 4.10 gears. There's a tag on the housing explaining exactly what's in it:



Great info page where I found that:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html

We're running 3.73 gears and a LSD, and it has made all the difference in the world over the D35. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE LIMITED SLIP.

MJ leafs will not work, the wheelbase dictates a much longer leaf pack which won't work for the XJ.

-Matt
Thanks matt, we will be headed to the junkyard on Monday. Brie
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #62  
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I put the Ranger Station rear axle article into my favorites, and printed the important stuff to take to the junkyard with me.
I'll be looking for a post 1995 Explorer with a D2 axle code on it's vehicle data plate, and 4L10 on it's differential tag. THANKS GUY, hopefully, next year we can be on the same track. BTW, I will go with the slotted rotors, but leave everything else stock as you are doing. Brie
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #63  
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Default Update on OUR Race XJ

Hey Matt, how did your race go last month? This is what we have done in the interim. I heard from several Rambler guru's that if I grab the crank and rods out of the 258, and use the head and pistons off the Renix 4.0 I will wind up with 283 Cu. In. displacement, a bit higher compression, and a TON more torque, so GUESS what I DID. I haven't fired it up yet, because
once I bent under the rear of the car and LOOKED, it turns out that there is a Dana 44, with a 3.54 limited slip there, but mounted spring over. I have the perches from an MJ that I took out of a U-Pull junkyard, so that I can grind down the spring over perches off the existing D44, and put them on. The perches on the MJ were NOT welded to the axle, when I put them on the D44 that I have, do I have to weld them? Would it be better for me to just go back to this SUPER cheap junkyard, and GET an MJ D44, saving the existing one for a 1959 Ford F-100 that I'm resto-modding with a 302/C4?
Team Infinity, Mogren, and Krek from the ChumpCar forum ALL think that I should keep the Jeep below 5500RPM, for both fuel milage reasons, and the fact that several people on the site say that somewhere just below 6000 RPM, the motor picks up a wicked harmonic that is NOT conducive to long life. Becides, they all tell me that with the torque monster engine that I can legally build, I should STAY with the ratio that the D44 HAS,
and as Team Infinity put it, "use the TORQUE Luke".
They also think that it is a good idea to try the 904 transmission because it is lighter than the AW4 transmission, is this TRUE???
Once again, THANKS in advance for you experience in this. Brie
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #64  
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From: DIRTY SOUTH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
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i think thats awesome...somethin new and real cool,just that rear wing throws me off a lil bit lol but i reckon it works for what its needed for
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #65  
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From: Lima Ohio
Year: 1996
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AWESOME
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #66  
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Year: 1996
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dude you're awesome, way to get creative with the xj
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #67  
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From: Issaquah, Wa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by taylorcraftbc65
Hey Matt, how did your race go last month? This is what we have done in the interim. I heard from several Rambler guru's that if I grab the crank and rods out of the 258, and use the head and pistons off the Renix 4.0 I will wind up with 283 Cu. In. displacement, a bit higher compression, and a TON more torque, so GUESS what I DID.
Well we had a kinda a tough race. About 3 hours in my brand new 282 ci/4.7 liter stroker spit a rod through the side of the block. We went to a junkyard and bought a 245k mile Renix 4.0 and finished the race with that motor. So I'm not real fond of strokers at the moment. We were in 32nd place out of 186 cars when the motor went boom, so it was even more painful that we spent the rest of the day wrenching. I think we finished 102/186, so pretty decent all things considered and we still had a lot of fun.

Here's a pic of the car at Sears Point:

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Originally Posted by taylorcraftbc65
I haven't fired it up yet, because
once I bent under the rear of the car and LOOKED, it turns out that there is a Dana 44, with a 3.54 limited slip there, but mounted spring over. I have the perches from an MJ that I took out of a U-Pull junkyard, so that I can grind down the spring over perches off the existing D44, and put them on. The perches on the MJ were NOT welded to the axle, when I put them on the D44 that I have, do I have to weld them? Would it be better for me to just go back to this SUPER cheap junkyard, and GET an MJ D44, saving the existing one for a 1959 Ford F-100 that I'm resto-modding with a 302/C4?
Meh, either way would work, but if if the 44 that's in there already has an LSD, I'd keep it. I would still really encourage you to do 3.73 or 4.10 gears though, and disc brakes would be nice. That's why the 8.8 swap makes so much sense. Cutting off the perches and building your own is really pretty easy if you are even a decent fabricator (and it sounds like you're able to do projects like that).

Originally Posted by taylorcraftbc65
Team Infinity, Mogren, and Krek from the ChumpCar forum ALL think that I should keep the Jeep below 5500RPM, for both fuel milage reasons, and the fact that several people on the site say that somewhere just below 6000 RPM, the motor picks up a wicked harmonic that is NOT conducive to long life.
I just dyno'd my 4.0 and it put down 123 rwhp and 150 lb/ft. Notice how sharply the numbers go down after 4750/5000 rpm? I wouldn't bother revving it past 5 grand...there's NO reason to go anywhere near 6000.

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Originally Posted by taylorcraftbc65
Becides, they all tell me that with the torque monster engine that I can legally build, I should STAY with the ratio that the D44 HAS,
and as Team Infinity put it, "use the TORQUE Luke".
They also think that it is a good idea to try the 904 transmission because it is lighter than the AW4 transmission, is this TRUE???

Once again, THANKS in advance for you experience in this.

Brie
I think they're wrong on both counts. I would go to 4.10s if you could and the AW4 is a superior transmission to a Torque Flite, not to mention being a 4 speed. What seems to be the over riding rule in crap can racing is the more stuff you leave factory (assuming there's not an inherent flaw with the stock components) the more reliable you are...that's why I would highly encourage you to leave the injection, motor and tranny alone.

I'm in the process of prepping our Jeep for the full 24 hour race in Reno May 14-15. We're going to a different tire (Falken Azenis 615K in 245/45R17) and building a slightly tweaked 4.0. It's going to have a Renix bottom end, ported High Output head, mild cam, 99+ intake manifold, bored throttle body and a nicer header. I'm hoping to put out about 150 rwhp/175 lb/ft. We're also adding a bunch of lights and a Savvy Offroad/Vanco big brake kit while we refurb the front end (-2 degree offset ball joints, etc).

-Matt
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by thelittlebrutethatcould
dude you're awesome, way to get creative with the xj
Thanks for all the compliments guys, we have a lot of fun.
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 11:53 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by IXNAYXJ
Thanks for all the compliments guys, we have a lot of fun.
The absolute BEST of luck to you and your team Matt, I'll be out here in the West Texas Grasslands building my Chumpcar for next year's races, I willl start the season at the Charlotte Motor Speedway race. We just ran Charlotte last weekend, the first half was WET, the rest was dry, and VERY fast. The cars ran 3/4ths of the tri-oval, and a little bit of a road course in the enfield to boot. It was a 14 hour race. It was a first for CCWS to be allowed to run there, and they have asked us back for next year.
With all my heros of NASCAR racing there when I was a kid, to be able to say that I RACED at Charlotte, is a DEFINATE "Bucket List" thing for me. Most of the others, I have gotten a chance to do, I have flown a Ford Tri-Motor, I own and a fly a pre-WW-II Antique, and have flown an ultralight from Florida to the Bahamas, (Lantana, Fl., to West End Airport, on Grand Bahama Island). Once I race a ChumpCar at Charlotte, I can die fulfilled and happy, but I'm in no rush. Brie
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:56 AM
  #70  
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From: Walled Lake, MI
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Dang! This thread is awsome.
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 01:12 AM
  #71  
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From: Idaho Falls,ID
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 L, 242 AMC
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I've crewed for 3 Chumpcars and always wondered if an XJ would make it out on the track. NICE WORK!
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