how hard to swap out to dana 44
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 37
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I fond out that I have the 30 front and a 35 in the rear. I had the same set up on my wrangler when I was young but could never afford to do a swap. Now that I have the time and mony I was wonting to swap them out for sone 44 front and rear. My qustion is how much work do you have to do to swap out to 44. Is it a straight bolt on or is it going to be something that I am going to need to dump a lot of money into it. Also what would be a good lift kit because I know some with kinds only go with a 35 in some went with the 8.25 rear ends. Or does that just come down to the U bolts being that that is what bolts everything pretty much in place. Also the largest tires I would run would be 31s at most 33's. the main reason I am looking at doing the swap is I will be moving to either Alaska or North Carolina and would like to make my rig to were it is self sufficient.
The rear only dana 44 that will bolt in is a rare 80s xj.For a dana 44 front bolt in will be a jeep wrangler rubicon but its not really a true dana 44 and not much of a upgrade over the dana 30.The best rear axle to use is a 96 and up ford explorer 8.8 all it takes is weld on new spring perches and shock mounts.For a good dana 44 front will be a 80s wagoneer but you will have to have all the mounting brackets welded on but they make a truss for it which makes it easier.And the lug pattern is a 6 lug but its easy to make it a 5 lug or make the 8.8 a 6 lug.Or if money is no problem https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/je...rength-166438/
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Joined: May 2013
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's is a thing of beauty bu t I don't have that much cash to drop. And that the one thing I wish I new how to do is weld. Also will I need a Frankenstein type of lift with that kind of the swap plus the biggest tires I am looking at in using is 33's with at most a 4.5 inch lift
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
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it's already been mentioned, so in your case, for straight simplicity, find an xj44 from an 87ish xj. be sure to take the drive shaft and leaf spring u-bolt plates if possible.
then just go with a tj rubicon front 44. the only reason it's not a true 44 is it uses d30 knuckles and unit bearings. they have the same u-joints as any other 44.
you will have to do a gear swap in the xj44 to match the 4.10s in the rubi axle, or if you can find a matching pair of rubi axles, just get someone to weld the spring perches and shock mounts and use the air lockers in your xj.
but i will warn you, rubi axles are not cheap.
then just go with a tj rubicon front 44. the only reason it's not a true 44 is it uses d30 knuckles and unit bearings. they have the same u-joints as any other 44.
you will have to do a gear swap in the xj44 to match the 4.10s in the rubi axle, or if you can find a matching pair of rubi axles, just get someone to weld the spring perches and shock mounts and use the air lockers in your xj.
but i will warn you, rubi axles are not cheap.
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it's already been mentioned, so in your case, for straight simplicity, find an xj44 from an 87ish xj. be sure to take the drive shaft and leaf spring u-bolt plates if possible.
then just go with a tj rubicon front 44. the only reason it's not a true 44 is it uses d30 knuckles and unit bearings. they have the same u-joints as any other 44.
you will have to do a gear swap in the xj44 to match the 4.10s in the rubi axle, or if you can find a matching pair of rubi axles, just get someone to weld the spring perches and shock mounts and use the air lockers in your xj.
but i will warn you, rubi axles are not cheap.
then just go with a tj rubicon front 44. the only reason it's not a true 44 is it uses d30 knuckles and unit bearings. they have the same u-joints as any other 44.
you will have to do a gear swap in the xj44 to match the 4.10s in the rubi axle, or if you can find a matching pair of rubi axles, just get someone to weld the spring perches and shock mounts and use the air lockers in your xj.
but i will warn you, rubi axles are not cheap.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
No all of them.
It would have to have either a 42 code of D2 code on the door jamb to have 4.10s. Usually in Explorer Sports.
42 is 4.10 Open
D2 is 4.10 LSD
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
It would have to have either a 42 code of D2 code on the door jamb to have 4.10s. Usually in Explorer Sports.
42 is 4.10 Open
D2 is 4.10 LSD
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The op sais he is planning on running 31's or at absolute most 33's. IMO there is no need for an 8.8 or a 44. If it were me, I would just find an 8.25 for the rear. And keep the 30. Especially if the op isn't going to be locked
Thread Starter
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Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0
I am going to lock but I won't to upgrade my axles because I am thinking of moving to Alaska and I won't something jus can some what depend on on the trail. Also I have herd of takeing the passenger side axle out of the 94 Jeep Cherokee because it is a one piece as opposed to the two piece the xj have. And if I did the 8.25 would that be a straight bolt on or what mods have to be done.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2013
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And thank you guys ever other forum I been on for my car for instance. And I have noticed that on the road at least in Alabama xj don't really wave to each other. I know when I was younger and had a wrangler we would wave to each other all the time. But thanks for all the helpful info
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay, what kind of lockers are you planning to run. You need an 8.25 from a 97+ xj also get.front d30 axle shafts out of a 95+ or a tj as they have the bigger 760 u-joints.
Last edited by ohio95xj; Jun 26, 2013 at 01:15 PM.


