How far should i take my dana 35?
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Model: Cherokee
How far should i take my dana 30?
i picked up a 44 for the rear so i am in the middle of redoing it and regearing with 4:56 gears. im going to need to regear my 30 once i put the 44 in and that starts my problem. the more i think about it the more i want to do with the 30 while its out. right now im thinking about doing a super 30 kit with the arb locker, a tnt truss, gears and buying a master rebuild kit and tearing the whole thing down and powder coating it. but when i think about it some more im wondering if im going over board with it. my cherokee is an extra vehicle for me which gets driven on the road a hand full of times in a month. i take it offroading maybe 10 times a year. right now it has 85,000 miles on it and it was bone stock when i got it last year. i have put a 4.5 re lift on it and 33s and plan on not going any bigger with the tires. to me its a street/trail rig and i plan on keeping it that way. i would like to get some opinions on how far i should go with it. i keep thinking about doing it all while its out but then again i wonder if im doing too much and just blowing money.
Last edited by spdyracer; 01-25-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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I wouldnt waste the money on a super 30 kit. Thats too much to spend, you could just upgrade at that point.
But gearing, locking and trussing is a good plan.
a lot of failures stem from tube deflection, so trussing it will get rid of that. If you dont drive it that much, throw a lunchbox locker in it, youll never know its there until you wheel it. It will be cheap and affective. Or even the normal ARB.
If you start to wheel it beyond the capacity of the axle at that point it will be time to go bigger, and youll be glad you didnt spend so much money on it.
I thought about it for a long time. It came down to basicall 2 things for me.
No matter what you do to it, it will have the same size u-joints.
Your limited to gear ratio.
Thats what made me upgrade. If you dont have a problem with either, dont worry about it.
But gearing, locking and trussing is a good plan.
a lot of failures stem from tube deflection, so trussing it will get rid of that. If you dont drive it that much, throw a lunchbox locker in it, youll never know its there until you wheel it. It will be cheap and affective. Or even the normal ARB.
If you start to wheel it beyond the capacity of the axle at that point it will be time to go bigger, and youll be glad you didnt spend so much money on it.
I thought about it for a long time. It came down to basicall 2 things for me.
No matter what you do to it, it will have the same size u-joints.
Your limited to gear ratio.
Thats what made me upgrade. If you dont have a problem with either, dont worry about it.
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