texengland

PO cut the fenders (rather poorly I might add) and I was wondering the best way to close these wheel wells up to keep crud out of the inside spaces?

98XJ40K

Hope you like to weld.... you will definitely need to weld up the gaps on the rear quarters. Looks like he cut past the pinch seam.

andrewmp6

The front some shove a pool noodle in the gap to seal most of it off.The rear since you didn't cut and fold it back its gonna take some welding to close up those gaps.

XJlimitedx99

Ouch, the back looks rough.

texengland

The guy cut three but he didn't finish the passenger rear, I'm going to have to finish his mess I guess. Are there pieces I can weld in or should I just replace entire panels?

XJlimitedx99

Just weld those two pieces of sheet metal back together. You don't even really have to lay a full bead, just some spot welds and seam sealer. For the last one, do the cut and fold method, or just cut it out and weld that one to match the other side

98XJ40K

Exactly. It's not really that bad, it just sucks that the PO created a lot of unnecessary work for you.

texengland

There is a pretty substantial gap in the back, are there any aftermarket flares that extend a few inches inside the well that I could rivet on? I'm not sure I could get the gap closed up enough to run a bead.

Hayden98XJ

Try using a clamp of some sort to pull the two pieces together.

Rogue4x4

Any large gaps, use some 16 ga sheet metal. Use cardboard and cut templates of the missing areas, cut your sheet steel, tack in place and finish welding. Or, now might be the time to just say f*ck it and go with comp cut rears, LOL

texengland

What do you mean comp cut rear?

98XJ40K

Rogue4x4

^exactly that

sreeb

Don't do that. It is a unit body. The inner to outer fender connection is structural. You need to weld it.

texengland

I thought I saw 4 inch or so flat inserts that could be welded in as a sealer and pseudo flare before, or was I just imaging it?