I’m kinda tired of having to flip a button every time i’m going down some backroad to avoid blinding someone, and driving stick and having to downshift on a hill combined with messing around with a switch is a little scary.

So, where can I wire the existing switch into the bright light switch, to where I turn on the brights it turns on the light bars?

 

Use a relay. Tap into a brights wire as a signal to the relay. Supply battery voltage to the relay and wire the off road lights to the output of the relay.

 

Well my lights are already wired to a separate relay. I suppose I could disconnect that relay and hard wire it into the relay for the brights, or just switch the supply from the battery to the output of the brights relay, and then wire the white switch wire to the switch inside of the relay to power the lights when i switch the brights on

That was worded poorly, but I’m not the best with wiring, so tell me if I need to do something else

 

The wire that triggers the relay needs to be from your headlight bright lights wire.

 

You already have relayed the headlights. That means you have one stock, factory headlamp socket that is used to trigger the headlight relay setup, and one that is sitting empty.

Use that empty sockets high beam wire as a signal wire, and wire it up so that the relay is only activated when your interior light switch is on. Then it will only engage when both the switch is on, and you are using your normal high beams with the stalk. You can do that by either using the switch to interrupt the 12V signal from the factory headlight socket, or by using the switch to control the relay ground.

I know this will come across as rude, but based on these posts it sounds like you just plugged in a relay harness without actually knowing how it works. Do some research prior to doing any custom wiring. Here is a good primer.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...ys/relays.html

 

Another good site: www.the12volt.com

 

This can all be done in the engine bay....

The best way is to keep all power wires short. so place a new relay near the battery, say on the right inner fender near battery, use a nice fat wire, with a fuse or fusable link from the battery positive termimal to the relay power input. Then from the relay, the power output goes to your lamps, which will be a short wire run to the front of truck. use fat wire. For the lamp ground, a fat wire to nearby good ground or back to battery negative.

Now for the relay trigger, and this is the magic which keeps this whole job in the engine bay, not the dash. You find a high beam wire that feeds the right side headlamp, and tap into it and split out from that high beam wire to a wire to the relay trigger. The relay also will need ground to nearest good ground point. These two wires may be thin wires.

No fishing wires thru the dash and thru firewall, no body contortons reaching up under the dash, Less money spent on wire, and short power wires from battery to lamps giving maximum voltage!

Win Win!

 

Eggstackly.

How fat a wire you need depends on the current draw (amperage) of your lights and how far you need to go from the relay to them.

 

Thats what a coworker was saying.

Now to clarify, there already is a relay under the hood that connects all the lights as well as the switch, and I was wondering if I can use that relay to do my bidding.

I was thinking about cutting the switch wire, and splicing in a wire from the high beam on the right side of the engine bay, and running that wire to the switch input of the relay, and everything else is already there, fused and grounded.

I’ll start doing some tinkering later this week if I find the time.

Thank y’all for dealing with my slow brain, it just takes me a second to write something that’s understandable sometimes

 

We really can't answer that without seeing how that one is connected. If it's aftermarket, we have no clue what's been done.

But you are probably over-thinking this. Just follow Rob's directions above and you'll be good. Relays are cheap.

 

To be clear, my advice was based on the assumption that you still wanted to use the switch so that you had the option of not running the auxiliary lights all the time. If you don't care about that, follow the above advice.

I still recommend better understanding relays and wiring conceptually before you do anything.

 

(Yeah, that comment was worth taking the time to make a meme.)