high steer opinions?
10-17-2011, 03:52 AM
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
high steer opinions?
i still have the d30 in front and need to do high steer, gonna just flip the ends to the top ream the holes, use 1ton ends and some thick wall dom. but i was seeing what to do with the draglink. would it be a terrible idea to drill and ream another hole just be hind the ti rod for another 1ton to the draglink? idk if that makes sense but i hope it does haha
10-17-2011, 05:19 AM
#3
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Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
10-17-2011, 09:07 AM
#6
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10-17-2011, 09:16 AM
#9
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One of the things you run into with a high steer is what to do about the track bar mount. If you try to keep it equal in length and parallel with the drag link you end up with it inside the coil spring. If you shorten it and raise it then you have a shorter track bar and when hitting bumps, it will force the wheels to steer slightly to the right. This can cause death wobble. I fought this for a long time on a high steer until I just remade the whole track bar and mount. If it is a dedicated trail rig, then no biggie. But you need to cover all the bases with a daily driver.
10-17-2011, 09:17 AM
#10
CF Veteran
10-17-2011, 09:33 AM
#11
You can't make fine adjustments to that configuration because the draglink mounts limit the amount of adjustment. The mount must be pointing up at all times.
In order to make any adjustments you've got to disconnect the draglink or remove the hardware from the tie-rod heims, loosen the jam nuts, rotate the heims 180 deg, then re-assemble everything and measure the toe-in. if not correct.....repeat the process over and over until it's right.
That is a PITA.
A tie-rod that is independent of the draglink can be rotated easily without any more work than loosening a couple jam nuts. 1 degree or 360 degrees, makes no difference.
10-17-2011, 09:41 AM
#12
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Model: Grand Cherokee
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Originally Posted by FrankZ
I can take a couple pics later today, but mine is a D44 with flat tops and high steer arms.....apples and oranges really.
10-17-2011, 10:06 AM
#14
CF Veteran
Re-read my post.
You can't make fine adjustments to that configuration because the draglink mounts limit the amount of adjustment. The mount must be pointing up at all times.
In order to make any adjustments you've got to disconnect the draglink or remove the hardware from the tie-rod heims, loosen the jam nuts, rotate the heims 180 deg, then re-assemble everything and measure the toe-in. if not correct.....repeat the process over and over until it's right.
That is a PITA.
A tie-rod that is independent of the draglink can be rotated easily without any more work than loosening a couple jam nuts. 1 degree or 360 degrees, makes no difference.
You can't make fine adjustments to that configuration because the draglink mounts limit the amount of adjustment. The mount must be pointing up at all times.
In order to make any adjustments you've got to disconnect the draglink or remove the hardware from the tie-rod heims, loosen the jam nuts, rotate the heims 180 deg, then re-assemble everything and measure the toe-in. if not correct.....repeat the process over and over until it's right.
That is a PITA.
A tie-rod that is independent of the draglink can be rotated easily without any more work than loosening a couple jam nuts. 1 degree or 360 degrees, makes no difference.
Very true that it can be a PITA to align.
10-17-2011, 10:17 AM
#15
aka Wade-O
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Year: 1989 Comanche
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Engine: 4.0
it sounds to me like you want to use the existing stock steering. if this is the case, i would just start fresh. it would be much easier in the long run.