high steer opinions?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 7
From: West Deptford, NJ
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lol draglink is in plain sight. it goes from the pitman arm to a hi steer arm on the passenger side knuckle.
the track bar looks like it doesnt exist though but its dead parallel and behind the draglink
the track bar looks like it doesnt exist though but its dead parallel and behind the draglink
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: muskogee ok
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
lol draglink is in plain sight. it goes from the pitman arm to a hi steer arm on the passenger side knuckle.
the track bar looks like it doesnt exist though but its dead parallel and behind the draglink
the track bar looks like it doesnt exist though but its dead parallel and behind the draglink
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I would suggest looking into a WJ knuckle swap. I was going to do this, but did a full width swap, and in fact collected most of the parts to do this swap.
here are write ups for the knukcle and brake upgrade
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...t=knuckle+swap
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...t=knuckle+swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...kles/index.htm
Here is a wirteup from JCR for a YJ but pretty much the same for xj
http://www.jcroffroad.com/WJ.html
I was going to source the needed fab parts locally, but JKS has them
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me...ode=CherokeeXJ
Enjoy your light tech reading
here are write ups for the knukcle and brake upgrade
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...t=knuckle+swap
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...t=knuckle+swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...kles/index.htm
Here is a wirteup from JCR for a YJ but pretty much the same for xj
http://www.jcroffroad.com/WJ.html
I was going to source the needed fab parts locally, but JKS has them
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me...ode=CherokeeXJ
Enjoy your light tech reading
if you wallets fat theres thishttp://www.rocky-road.com/xjott.html
Buy FrankZ's or JCR's kit...cheaper and straight to the point.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
If you want to research high steer, NAXJA is a good source. A number of them there have converted to WJ steering and have write ups on it. It is all done with stock parts with a little modification of the rotors, including a caliper upgrade. What Ping has is a D44 high steer conversion, which can be purchased as a kit from Places like Tereflex or other sources. He also in his pic has spherical rod ends, which can be purchased anywhere. But the real trick is that if you have a daily driver, you need to remake the track bar to be the same length and mount properly at the frame end to keep it parallel with the drag length. Also you will need to remake the axle mount and raise it up about 5" and shift to the driver side by about 4". Here are the only pics I have of mine. But everything drives so much better now, as well as getting rid of mild death wobble I have been chasing for some time.


CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just cross over, works great, may go to high steer later and add the drivers side arm.. but as of now no need for it. Waggy D44 with chevy flat tops, chevy 1 ton TRE's...
.
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In fact I have a set of knuckles if interested.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 1
From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Re-read my post.
You can't make fine adjustments to that configuration because the draglink mounts limit the amount of adjustment. The mount must be pointing up at all times.
In order to make any adjustments you've got to disconnect the draglink or remove the hardware from the tie-rod heims, loosen the jam nuts, rotate the heims 180 deg, then re-assemble everything and measure the toe-in. if not correct.....repeat the process over and over until it's right.
That is a PITA.
A tie-rod that is independent of the draglink can be rotated easily without any more work than loosening a couple jam nuts. 1 degree or 360 degrees, makes no difference.
You can't make fine adjustments to that configuration because the draglink mounts limit the amount of adjustment. The mount must be pointing up at all times.
In order to make any adjustments you've got to disconnect the draglink or remove the hardware from the tie-rod heims, loosen the jam nuts, rotate the heims 180 deg, then re-assemble everything and measure the toe-in. if not correct.....repeat the process over and over until it's right.
That is a PITA.
A tie-rod that is independent of the draglink can be rotated easily without any more work than loosening a couple jam nuts. 1 degree or 360 degrees, makes no difference.
how often do you have to do an alignment really to worry about it tho?
mine works just fine i have the same setup and i love it, never had it fail nor have i had any problems aligning mine


