HELP NEEDED: with which locker to buy for what
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
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From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
But you arent comparing only the front locked verse only the rear locked. By what you dscribed you are comparing both front and rear locked verse only the rear locked... Of course its going to seem that way.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
selectable rear. i was always apprehensive about running an "always locked" axle up front i the snow so i put an OX in my front 44 when i built it. then this winter with all the snow we had i decided to pull the cable back and lock the front end on snow covered roads and took it up to 50-60 mph and i LAUGHED MY *** OFF about how much of a huge deal people made. it literally made almost no difference whatsoever.
i'd rather have a selectable rear to get my turning radius tighter offroad.
i'd rather have a selectable rear to get my turning radius tighter offroad.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 512
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
IMO it really depends on what you plan on driving. I can see advantages to both setups on different terrain. If you're on ice, a locked front is going to create a lot of understeer at speed. A locked rear could cause a spinout. NP242 and LSDs for both lol. Locked diffs will behave differently no matter what, so be careful.
I like the idea of a selectable up front for trails to make turns easier.
I like the idea of a selectable up front for trails to make turns easier.
Last edited by salad; May 6, 2013 at 05:13 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 11
From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
Again, it really isn't. If anything, most of the time it's easier bc both wheels are trying to grip and get over whatever you're trying to get over instead of one just hanging out not helping.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It was fine. Just find the way you wanna turn, either let off and take it slow, or power through it and kick the *** end around a little. I can see it being weird if you've never driven a jeep before (I wouldn't go throw my gf the keys and let her drive to work in a blizzard by herself) but it was not a big deal at all for me.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 11
From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
turning radius from tightest to "damn this sucks" is:
open/open
locked/open
open/locked
locked/locked
thats without taking cutting brakes into consideration. how "easy" it is depends on your power steering setup, and not really if you're open or locked up front. yea, if you have 39s and a spool in a full width front, it wont be easy to turn... but 33s on a D30 it doesnt matter open or locked, sorry dude.
i had a XJ open/locked on 31s then 33s for 4 years and like 45-50k miles. my XJ now is selectable/locked on 35s. i've driven pretty much every configuration XJ you can build from stock to "is that still a XJ i think its a tube buggy."
turning radius from tightest to "damn this sucks" is:
open/open
locked/open
open/locked
locked/locked
thats without taking cutting brakes into consideration. how "easy" it is depends on your power steering setup, and not really if you're open or locked up front. yea, if you have 39s and a spool in a full width front, it wont be easy to turn... but 33s on a D30 it doesnt matter open or locked, sorry dude.
turning radius from tightest to "damn this sucks" is:
open/open
locked/open
open/locked
locked/locked
thats without taking cutting brakes into consideration. how "easy" it is depends on your power steering setup, and not really if you're open or locked up front. yea, if you have 39s and a spool in a full width front, it wont be easy to turn... but 33s on a D30 it doesnt matter open or locked, sorry dude.
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are having trouble getting you steering wheel to physically turn that far then you need to address issues in your steering system. I can lock my front end on 35s, on pavement, in 4wd, and still crank the steering wheel all the way left then all the way right. I have a stock steering box and steering pump.
I already stated this exact thing. Yes, it is alot easier to PHYSICALLY turn your steering wheel with the front unlocked and the rear locked verse the front locked and the rear unlocked. BUT. That does not mean that the Jeep can turn in a TIGHTER TURNING RADIUS. With the front tires cranked all the way one way or the other and your foot on the gas, your Jeep will turn in a tighter radius with the front locked verse with the rear locked.
If you are having trouble getting you steering wheel to physically turn that far then you need to address issues in your steering system. I can lock my front end on 35s, on pavement, in 4wd, and still crank the steering wheel all the way left then all the way right. I have a stock steering box and steering pump.
If you are having trouble getting you steering wheel to physically turn that far then you need to address issues in your steering system. I can lock my front end on 35s, on pavement, in 4wd, and still crank the steering wheel all the way left then all the way right. I have a stock steering box and steering pump.
So you're saying the same thing as me except you are arguing with me for some reason...
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Because the question is where should he put the ratcheting locker and you say in the rear. I disagree and I am providing points for my statement. Tighter turning radius takes precedence over the steering wheel being harder to turn offroad when in 4WD.
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