So I've got a 4" lift on 33s and 3.55s And plan to regear to 4.56 (mpg sucks) and I am going to give it a shot to do it myself, eventually but I also want to lock the rear with a powertrax noslip but have a limited college kids budget lol.

So basically what would you do first?
Powertrax noslip or 4.56 gears plus a few hundred dollars in tools for the regear.

Thanks for input

Mike

 

I would take some strain off your engine and regear it first. Maybe youll be able to save up for the locker a little quicker with the extra mpg's.

 

honestly, i would save up and do it all at once. you'll already have everything apart so you might as well save yourself some time and do it all at one time.

just my .02

 

x2!

 

Dial indicator
Magnetic base
Shop press
Bearing puller
Bearing race installer
FT lb Torque wrench
In lb Torque wrench
Adjuster tool (DIY)

A little more than a couple hundred in tools friend.

 

these aren't absolutely necessary

you'll need a new carrier so the bearing puller isn't needed, and as far as the press and race installer, put the carrier in the freezer for a few hours and put the bearings in the toaster oven

 

The locker is only an extra couple hundred $$ so do it all at once.

 

New carrier is needed up front, not in the rear.
A puller is needed unless you are using a set up bearings, and even those aren't always eactly the same dimensionaly as the actual bearings you'll be using.

Powertrax are more than a couple hundred. $450 is adout average.

 

lol, that's a funny but, true analogy. gear down, save mpg, get a locker.

 

I thought the break for the rear 44 was 3.93+ ?

on the note of setup bearings, when you buy the gears im assuming you'll buy the master install kit, keep those bearings. go to your local auto parts store and get the cheapest carrier and pinion bearings you can, grind out the insides so they slide on and off the carrier and the pinion. it will make installation 100x easier/faster.

and, i would use an aussie in the rear myself, they are almost exactly the same and seem to be a bit cheaper.. i run aussies front and rear myself

 

Since your wanting to use a lunchbox locker, i would just throw that in there first. Unless you are only doing in city driving, you are not loosing that much mpg. I would throw the locker in, have a blast cause you now have a locker, and save for the regear while you are playing and having a good time. And if you have relativly sound motor and tranny you really are not doing any ireparable damage. ohhhh imo

 

The OP has d30/8.25" listed under his rig, not D44's.

Reusing old bearings as set-up bearings is not a good idea. Old bearings are worn and the shim selections made based on on them will be incorrect when the new bearings are installed. Set-up bearings should be made with new bearings. BTDT.

 

bearing puller is needed, its very rare that you get the shims exactly right in the first shot. so sometimes the bearing will have to come back off the pinion and also sometimes the carrier (when shims are installed behind the carrier bearing)

all those tools FrankZ listed are needed to CORRECTLY set up a diff within spec.

 

did he say he had a d44?

 

Very true but I already have, and have access to most of the tools needed. However I need a dial indicator, digital micrometer in lb Torque wrench, and the spanner tool which i will make. I plan on using new setup bearings so Ill just use the auto zone bearing splitters and pullers that ruin the bearings, but as long as they get them off.

I didn't mention this in the first Post but I have a little civic for the good MPGs, its also nice if I have my truck apart for a day or so and need to go somewhere. but i think the motor is developing a little rod knock unfortunately lol.

I have a spare C8.25 (29 spline) in my yard.
C8.25 (29 spline) and hp d30 under the truck now.

I have never done gears before although I read just about every writeup out there and feel totally confident that I could do it, and I really understand what every little adjustment does.

So maybe I will order the gears, the bearings and the tools while I give the spare C8.25 a shot and take my time. Once that's finished I dk if I should pull my front axle out or do it while its in the truck.

Thanks

Mike