Gear matching
#1
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0
Gear matching
I've decided to go full size axels with my Xj
I' m doing the build on a budget so I've got my hands on a 14 bolt corporate (chevy)rear and a dana 60 HP front (ford) I am going to run 4:56 gears and using a np231 transfer case
I've bin told I might have problems with the gear speeds matching up cause of the two different axles is this a big problem ? Or will it be ok ?
I' m doing the build on a budget so I've got my hands on a 14 bolt corporate (chevy)rear and a dana 60 HP front (ford) I am going to run 4:56 gears and using a np231 transfer case
I've bin told I might have problems with the gear speeds matching up cause of the two different axles is this a big problem ? Or will it be ok ?
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
if you are going to run 4.56 gears, then your gears will be 4.56
if you have 4.56 in the front and 4.56 in the rear, then they are the same.
4.56= 4.56
if you have 4.56 in the front and 4.56 in the rear, then they are the same.
4.56= 4.56
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
if you are going to run 4.56 gears, then your gears will be 4.56
if you have 4.56 in the front and 4.56 in the rear, then they are the same.
4.56= 4.56
if you have 4.56 in the front and 4.56 in the rear, then they are the same.
4.56= 4.56
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
yup, thats fine. theres a general rule of thumb floating around somewhere, something like if its within a certain percent of eachother.
Back in the day, Willes used the exact same gear ratio in their front and rear diff's. This caused a subsequent binding between axles that apparently was something like wheel hop when turning on welded gears, but when going in a straight line. It would literally make the vehicles lurch. So some low ranking service member with no college/engineering education, was able to determine that the front end needed to be geared just slightly higher to allow it to cause a slight pull, thus alleviating the binding issue. Hence why we see 4.10 (rear) and 4.11 (front) gears. Apparently.
This is just what I've heard, but I am not gonna argue the logic of the statement. Maybe it's true origins are debatable, but the concept seems very accurate.
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What size tires you plan on running cause 4.56 is good for 35s but my 38s are lacking and I feel like I need lower gears. If you're putting tons in for 35s it's a bit overkill and plan on hanging up on the 14 bolt. You won't break it though.
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Here is the latest info I was just told:
Back in the day, Willes used the exact same gear ratio in their front and rear diff's. This caused a subsequent binding between axles that apparently was something like wheel hop when turning on welded gears, but when going in a straight line. It would literally make the vehicles lurch. So some low ranking service member with no college/engineering education, was able to determine that the front end needed to be geared just slightly higher to allow it to cause a slight pull, thus alleviating the binding issue. Hence why we see 4.10 (rear) and 4.11 (front) gears. Apparently.
This is just what I've heard, but I am not gonna argue the logic of the statement. Maybe it's true origins are debatable, but the concept seems very accurate.
Back in the day, Willes used the exact same gear ratio in their front and rear diff's. This caused a subsequent binding between axles that apparently was something like wheel hop when turning on welded gears, but when going in a straight line. It would literally make the vehicles lurch. So some low ranking service member with no college/engineering education, was able to determine that the front end needed to be geared just slightly higher to allow it to cause a slight pull, thus alleviating the binding issue. Hence why we see 4.10 (rear) and 4.11 (front) gears. Apparently.
This is just what I've heard, but I am not gonna argue the logic of the statement. Maybe it's true origins are debatable, but the concept seems very accurate.
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Originally Posted by salad
Sounds believable but a load of BS. I can see a slightly higher gear ratio for the front to reduce hopping and binding due to going around TURNS but not straight. Realistically the gear ratio is based on teeth. 10 teeth on a pinion and 41 on the ring... not sure how someone would get 4.11:1 from that
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI
It is. Different axles use different ratios. Idk why. Say, GM is 4.56 and Ford is 4.55. That's it. And it's fine.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
But going around turns employs the use of the use of the spool to allow for different rotation speeds of inner/outer tire. And in all honesty, thinking of it like that, if one tire has to turn slightly faster than the other to prevent binding, it just seems like this law of physics would apply to straight line as well.. Idk, I'm havin a hard time letting to of this concept.. :/
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by salad
That's correct (by spool I assume you mean differential) but the front tires still turn faster combined than the rear. This is why 4HI is only part time on NP231s. Take a toy Jeep (I hear you Americans can buy them at friggin' Walmart!), or even Lego lol, ink up the tires and put it down on some paper, then measure the circumfrence of the tracks that the tires leave behind. Larger track = faster wheels. Straight line = same track