Anyone see a difference between these two similar kickers aside from the wattage?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20641DS...654.html?tp=95

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS6...r-40CS654.html

Again, won't be upgrading anything else in the system like a new amp or anything like that, so if its just a matter of the overhead limit, I'm fine going lower and am leaning towards the lower priced one suggested earlier.

Just one of those times I"d hate to cheap out on 10 bucks if it actually makes a difference, both are rated very well and I'm sure I"ll be happy with either, although one has a ton more reviews.

 

The first ones are best for being powered from a head unit, most HU max at 50w x 4.
Second pair better for amplifier.

 

The first aftermarket speakers I used in my '99 were a set of Kenwoods. Crutchfield suggested 6.5" for the front and 5.25" for the back. The 5.25s didn't fit in the back, but the 6.5" did. Neither would fit in the front without drilling, so for a while I had Kenwoods in the back and OEM in the front. I ended up pulling them out and putting the Infinity Reference 6.5" shallow mounts in the front and 5.25" in the back. Both fit perfectly with the original screw holes. Seems the 97-01 XJs have kind of odd-ball door speakers. As for the Kenwoods, I tracked down some matching 6x8s and put them in my ZX2.

The '95 on the other hand seems to be more accepting of various speakers in it's doors.

They've worked quite well with my head unit, but I've always pondered adding an amp. Good to know they'd be good to use with one.

 

I'm running 6.5" infinitys all around in my XJ sounds great

 

Coming from a car audio background I would suggest Rockford Fosgate if you are looking for good speakers that won't break your bank otherwise Apline sps-60c are great. P.s. avoid Kicker like the plague.

 

^ I second that, and will add Polk Audio.
A subwoofer is a good compliment to the XJ because most of the lows frequencies from door/soundbar speakers seem to be cancelled by the growling XJ. I run a Fosgate 10" self-powered subwoofer. It's compact and sounds clear. An 8" sub would be adequate however.
6" x 9" speakers are great if not running a sub, just have to find somewhere to mount them.

 

Sod it, just strip the interior until all you have left is the cluster, steering wheel, e-brake, and shifter, and seats. Now you don't have to worry

 

Yeah I would highly suggest a sub.




Im doing a custom box to sit right behind the seat

 

Nice looking cabinet your building Nildnas - and even nicer looking workshop; I'm jealous.

My Head unit is 52w x4 - Steve thanks for the clarification on which would sound better and the tip to check against the head unit; like I said I really didn't know anything about audio setups until I posted this and started reading up on them a bit.

While I'm doing all this, should I also get a pair of 6.5" speakers for the back? I'd hate for it to sound unbalanced after all this work (remember I do have a sub) , so I'm guessing the safe bet would be to go with the same make/model as the front, correct?

I've decided that for the front speakers I'm just going to go with the lower wattage kicker ones some others have recommended - I'm starting to feel that if don't pull the trigger soon I'll just sweat over small details (reminds me of buying a computer or a phone actually) and then end up buying nothing at all.

Honestly in the end I'm sure whatever I get will be a great upgrade and I'll be very pleased with the results; plus I won't know what I'm missing out on anyways so no regrets there.

Thanks again for the help everyone, learned a lot about the requirements in this thread, so I really appreciate it!

 

Thanks man! And just a quick suggestion. What I've always done is take the connector that will be on the stock speakers cut it off. Put some quick disconnect lugs on the end, then you have a real easy way to connect your after market speakers to your factory system

 

Pioneer 6.5 inch 4 ways, super tight fit on my 2001 but worked. X2 on the wiring, I had my driver side speaker wire break where to goes from the door to the body (would work when it wanted to) and I am too lazy to take the wiring out of the door to fix it so I ran new wire.