$5.50 t-case drop / stud removal
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 6
From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thought i'd share my experience yesterday since this is a common topic.
Four M10x1.5 45mm bolts
Four M10 washers and Four larger washers.
Four 3/4" hex nuts
$5.50
Remove the studs and use bolts instead. The 3/4" hex nuts is 9/16" thick and makes a perfect spacer. I was gonna drop mine with the skyjacker kit (1 1/4" drop) but i ended up eliminating the vibes with only dropping it 9/16" so i saved some clearance.
During the week, i removed the bolts and stud nuts and pb-blasted the whole area a couple times. The bolts came out like butter. To remove the studs, take a dremel or grinder and slowly grind two flat spots on the side of the studs. Using a dremel or grinder slowly enables heat to build up in the bolt and break the rust/locktight. Now take a pipe wrench (vice grips will just round it off again) and twist those studs out. Mine came out so easy that i thought i was dreaming (my 2000 tj broke 4 of 6). Once all studs are out, apply tons of anti-sieze in the holes and on the threads of the bolts. Bolt it back up with the big nuts between the skid and "frame".
Another method to get out the studs:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=stud
Worth every penny and may come in handy later on.
The 9/16" drop eliminated my rear vibes from my 2" AAL (2001 xj, rear lifted 2.75").
Chris
Four M10x1.5 45mm bolts
Four M10 washers and Four larger washers.
Four 3/4" hex nuts
$5.50
Remove the studs and use bolts instead. The 3/4" hex nuts is 9/16" thick and makes a perfect spacer. I was gonna drop mine with the skyjacker kit (1 1/4" drop) but i ended up eliminating the vibes with only dropping it 9/16" so i saved some clearance.
During the week, i removed the bolts and stud nuts and pb-blasted the whole area a couple times. The bolts came out like butter. To remove the studs, take a dremel or grinder and slowly grind two flat spots on the side of the studs. Using a dremel or grinder slowly enables heat to build up in the bolt and break the rust/locktight. Now take a pipe wrench (vice grips will just round it off again) and twist those studs out. Mine came out so easy that i thought i was dreaming (my 2000 tj broke 4 of 6). Once all studs are out, apply tons of anti-sieze in the holes and on the threads of the bolts. Bolt it back up with the big nuts between the skid and "frame".
Another method to get out the studs:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=stud
Worth every penny and may come in handy later on.
The 9/16" drop eliminated my rear vibes from my 2" AAL (2001 xj, rear lifted 2.75").
Chris
Thought i'd share my experience yesterday since this is a common topic.
Four M10x1.5 45mm bolts
Four M10 washers and Four larger washers.
Four 3/4" hex nuts
$5.50
Remove the studs and use bolts instead. The 3/4" hex nuts is 9/16" thick and makes a perfect spacer. I was gonna drop mine with the skyjacker kit (1 1/4" drop) but i ended up eliminating the vibes with only dropping it 9/16" so i saved some clearance.
During the week, i removed the bolts and stud nuts and pb-blasted the whole area a couple times. The bolts came out like butter. To remove the studs, take a dremel or grinder and slowly grind two flat spots on the side of the studs. Using a dremel or grinder slowly enables heat to build up in the bolt and break the rust/locktight. Now take a pipe wrench (vice grips will just round it off again) and twist those studs out. Mine came out so easy that i thought i was dreaming (my 2000 tj broke 4 of 6). Once all studs are out, apply tons of anti-sieze in the holes and on the threads of the bolts. Bolt it back up with the big nuts between the skid and "frame".
Another method to get out the studs:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=stud
Worth every penny and may come in handy later on.
The 9/16" drop eliminated my rear vibes from my 2" AAL (2001 xj, rear lifted 2.75").
Chris
Four M10x1.5 45mm bolts
Four M10 washers and Four larger washers.
Four 3/4" hex nuts
$5.50
Remove the studs and use bolts instead. The 3/4" hex nuts is 9/16" thick and makes a perfect spacer. I was gonna drop mine with the skyjacker kit (1 1/4" drop) but i ended up eliminating the vibes with only dropping it 9/16" so i saved some clearance.
During the week, i removed the bolts and stud nuts and pb-blasted the whole area a couple times. The bolts came out like butter. To remove the studs, take a dremel or grinder and slowly grind two flat spots on the side of the studs. Using a dremel or grinder slowly enables heat to build up in the bolt and break the rust/locktight. Now take a pipe wrench (vice grips will just round it off again) and twist those studs out. Mine came out so easy that i thought i was dreaming (my 2000 tj broke 4 of 6). Once all studs are out, apply tons of anti-sieze in the holes and on the threads of the bolts. Bolt it back up with the big nuts between the skid and "frame".
Another method to get out the studs:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...P?keyword=stud
Worth every penny and may come in handy later on.
The 9/16" drop eliminated my rear vibes from my 2" AAL (2001 xj, rear lifted 2.75").
Chris
I just wanted to thank you, saved me the 20$ for the kit plus fixed my issues. Wanted to supply another link to the Stud Extractor for 6$, figured I'd pass the savings, take care....
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...tor-94640.html
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: So.Cal.
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You don't really have to grind flats on the studs to remove them. Just put 2 nuts (or even 3) on the stud and tighten the upper nut down on the lower nut. Now you just wrench the stud out with the nut. If needed you can use 3 nuts to get more purchase area on the upper nuts for a larger adjustable wrench. FYI
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