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Front driveshaft in rear.

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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 05:30 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
OP, that's what we are here for. As long as you listen, can take some criticism, and noggin poke, well always help. It's when people say, ok give me a long list of what it could be and waits for an answer but never does the investigating needed, those people we can't stand.
I fully agree here. We may bicker and disagree, but in the end we all want to help just as we get helped all the time. I fully maintain the position that I wouldn't have any hobbies if it weren't for forums.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 05:34 PM
  #122  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by sycoglitch
You do speak for yourself. I like problems to always continue ;P lol.

OP, that's what we are here for. As long as you listen, can take some criticism, and noggin poke, well always help. It's when people say, ok give me a long list of what it could be and waits for an answer but never does the investigating needed, those people we can't stand.
Yeah I don't mind trying things and looking for stuff. I just sometimes don't completely understand stuff sometimes, but I'm trying to learn.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 05:58 PM
  #123  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Alright so on the way to class tonight I wasn't focusing on how the vibration felt. I focused only on where it was coming from and it definitely seemed like it was the front passenger side. My girlfriend also said that's where se thought it was coming from.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 06:04 PM
  #124  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

What all on the front corner could cause it? U-joint, and what else?
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 06:06 PM
  #125  
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Yup sounds like I was wrong then. Seems like it's your u-joint. The good thing is they're not difficult to do. I'm not saying this will happen to you, but be careful when you're changing them. Mine was really fighting me when I tried to get it out of the stub shaft, and I ended up blowing the bearing cap open. It turned out that one of the ears on the stub shaft was bent in and binding on the cap, so the joint body pushed a whole through the cap. I have no idea how it got like that, but I obviously ended up replacing the stub shaft then.

Besides the u-joint, it could be an issues with your alignment or a wheel out of balance. With a vibration this bad though, you would most likely be able to visually tell if it was an alignment issue or worn components. Check the tie rods ends and ball joints by jacking up that wheel and seeing if it has any play. Leave the other side on the ground though so you have some resistance for the tie rod. Side to side play is most likely the tie rod ends, and top to bottom play would be the ball joints.

Last edited by aj2494; Sep 15, 2015 at 06:11 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:04 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
What all on the front corner could cause it? U-joint, and what else?
Steering, brakes, bearing, u joint, balance, thats about all I could think of.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:11 PM
  #127  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by toasterknight
Steering, brakes, bearing, u joint, balance, thats about all I could think of.
Brakes are good, balance is good (had tires balanced and rotated a week ago) I guess I should go ahead and replace the u joint to rule that out, I don't know how to really test the bearing.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:12 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Brakes are good, balance is good (had tires balanced and rotated a week ago) I guess I should go ahead and replace the u joint to rule that out, I don't know how to really test the bearing.
If its bad you will know. It will be floppy and falling apart. If they are old might be a good idea to replace it anyways.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:13 PM
  #129  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by toasterknight
If its bad you will know. It will be floppy and falling apart. If they are old might be a good idea to replace it anyways.
Is it hard to replace the bearing?
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:22 PM
  #130  
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If its stuck its a ***** but it doesn't really matter as you have to remove it to get to the u joints.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:27 PM
  #131  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by toasterknight
If its stuck its a ***** but it doesn't really matter as you have to remove it to get to the u joints.
So when I go to the parts store what all should I ask for? And what should I expect to be paying....
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:28 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by toasterknight
If its stuck its a ***** but it doesn't really matter as you have to remove it to get to the u joints.
IIRC, you can't remove the bearing, just the whole hub assembly. And there's a really good trick to doing that that involves a socket and just the effort to turn the steering wheel.

You might not be able to get the Spicer u-joints from a part store without them having to order specially for you. I know Rock auto and Amazon both have them, P/N 5-760X. If you're only doing the u-joints, they're $25 a piece. If you're doing bearings (AKA the hub assembly), expect to pay around $100 a piece for the Moog parts (P/N 513158). The Timken hub (P/N HA597449) is $75 on Amazon. That's not bad actually.

Last edited by aj2494; Sep 15, 2015 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:31 PM
  #133  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by aj2494
Are you talking about the bearing or the hub? Because you don't have to remove the bearing, just the whole hub assembly. And there's a really good trick to doing that that involves a socket and just the effort to turn the steering wheel.
The hub assembly is called the unit bearing and yes that is what I am talking. About.

You need to ask for the unit bearings.
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #134  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Originally Posted by aj2494
IIRC, you can't remove the bearing, just the whole hub assembly. And there's a really good trick to doing that that involves a socket and just the effort to turn the steering wheel.

You might not be able to get the Spicer u-joints from a part store without them having to order specially for you. I know Rock auto and Amazon both have them, P/N 5-760X. If you're only doing the u-joints, they're $25 a piece. If you're doing bearings (AKA the hub assembly), expect to pay around $100 a piece for the Moog parts (P/N 513158). The Timken hub (P/N HA597449) is $75 on Amazon. That's not bad actually.
I need a 5-760x u joint for my 1999 jeep Cherokee? Is there another size or is that it? Sorry if that's a dumb question but there seems to be a lot of variation in jeeps
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:42 PM
  #135  
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Default Front driveshaft in rear.

Also are there any special tools I would need that I wouldn't normally have?
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