Front driveshaft in rear.
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From: Eastern Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OP, that's what we are here for. As long as you listen, can take some criticism, and noggin poke, well always help. It's when people say, ok give me a long list of what it could be and waits for an answer but never does the investigating needed, those people we can't stand.
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by sycoglitch
You do speak for yourself. I like problems to always continue ;P lol.
OP, that's what we are here for. As long as you listen, can take some criticism, and noggin poke, well always help. It's when people say, ok give me a long list of what it could be and waits for an answer but never does the investigating needed, those people we can't stand.
OP, that's what we are here for. As long as you listen, can take some criticism, and noggin poke, well always help. It's when people say, ok give me a long list of what it could be and waits for an answer but never does the investigating needed, those people we can't stand.
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Alright so on the way to class tonight I wasn't focusing on how the vibration felt. I focused only on where it was coming from and it definitely seemed like it was the front passenger side. My girlfriend also said that's where se thought it was coming from.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Eastern Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yup sounds like I was wrong then. Seems like it's your u-joint. The good thing is they're not difficult to do. I'm not saying this will happen to you, but be careful when you're changing them. Mine was really fighting me when I tried to get it out of the stub shaft, and I ended up blowing the bearing cap open. It turned out that one of the ears on the stub shaft was bent in and binding on the cap, so the joint body pushed a whole through the cap. I have no idea how it got like that, but I obviously ended up replacing the stub shaft then.
Besides the u-joint, it could be an issues with your alignment or a wheel out of balance. With a vibration this bad though, you would most likely be able to visually tell if it was an alignment issue or worn components. Check the tie rods ends and ball joints by jacking up that wheel and seeing if it has any play. Leave the other side on the ground though so you have some resistance for the tie rod. Side to side play is most likely the tie rod ends, and top to bottom play would be the ball joints.
Besides the u-joint, it could be an issues with your alignment or a wheel out of balance. With a vibration this bad though, you would most likely be able to visually tell if it was an alignment issue or worn components. Check the tie rods ends and ball joints by jacking up that wheel and seeing if it has any play. Leave the other side on the ground though so you have some resistance for the tie rod. Side to side play is most likely the tie rod ends, and top to bottom play would be the ball joints.
Last edited by aj2494; Sep 15, 2015 at 06:11 PM.
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From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by toasterknight
Steering, brakes, bearing, u joint, balance, thats about all I could think of.
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From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If its bad you will know. It will be floppy and falling apart. If they are old might be a good idea to replace it anyways.
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by toasterknight
If its bad you will know. It will be floppy and falling apart. If they are old might be a good idea to replace it anyways.
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by toasterknight
If its stuck its a ***** but it doesn't really matter as you have to remove it to get to the u joints.
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From: Eastern Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You might not be able to get the Spicer u-joints from a part store without them having to order specially for you. I know Rock auto and Amazon both have them, P/N 5-760X. If you're only doing the u-joints, they're $25 a piece. If you're doing bearings (AKA the hub assembly), expect to pay around $100 a piece for the Moog parts (P/N 513158). The Timken hub (P/N HA597449) is $75 on Amazon. That's not bad actually.
Last edited by aj2494; Sep 15, 2015 at 08:35 PM.
CF Veteran
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From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
You need to ask for the unit bearings.
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by aj2494
IIRC, you can't remove the bearing, just the whole hub assembly. And there's a really good trick to doing that that involves a socket and just the effort to turn the steering wheel.
You might not be able to get the Spicer u-joints from a part store without them having to order specially for you. I know Rock auto and Amazon both have them, P/N 5-760X. If you're only doing the u-joints, they're $25 a piece. If you're doing bearings (AKA the hub assembly), expect to pay around $100 a piece for the Moog parts (P/N 513158). The Timken hub (P/N HA597449) is $75 on Amazon. That's not bad actually.
You might not be able to get the Spicer u-joints from a part store without them having to order specially for you. I know Rock auto and Amazon both have them, P/N 5-760X. If you're only doing the u-joints, they're $25 a piece. If you're doing bearings (AKA the hub assembly), expect to pay around $100 a piece for the Moog parts (P/N 513158). The Timken hub (P/N HA597449) is $75 on Amazon. That's not bad actually.


