According to http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...e-hubs-360959/ I have the late style rotors on the early style hubs....
CF Veteran
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Composite, the older design is 3 3/16 from the inner braking surface to the top of the hat. That's what yours should be looking at the hub. If its 3 1/16 it has the cast rotors which are the incorrect rotor for that hub.Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Well reading the link posted it sounded like the thickness of the hat was the difference.
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According to this picture I have the cast (new style) rotors and according to the flange measurement (slightly under 1/2) I have the old hubs (made for composite rotors) meaning the flange on my hub, and my wheel studs are too short.Originally Posted by toasterknight
Composite, the older design is 3 3/16 from the inner braking surface to the top of the hat. That's what yours should be looking at the hub. If its 3 1/16 it has the cast rotors which are the incorrect rotor for that hub.
CF Veteran
Um probably want to fix that. The wheel shouldn't be able to turn with those mismatched. That could very easily be the cause of your vibration.
You have two options either get the hub to match your rotor. Or the rotor to match your hub.
You have two options either get the hub to match your rotor. Or the rotor to match your hub.
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You have two options either get the hub to match your rotor. Or the rotor to match your hub.
It's been like that since before I had a lift... And they don't rub anywhere I think they just make the tires stick out farther than they are supposed to on the studs... But that's still not a good thing especially since I have alloy rims too... So the rotors are fairly new, would you get the hubs or the rotors? Or would it depend on what I find out about the hubs condition when I do the u joint?Originally Posted by toasterknight
Um probably want to fix that. The wheel shouldn't be able to turn with those mismatched. That could very easily be the cause of your vibration.You have two options either get the hub to match your rotor. Or the rotor to match your hub.
I think the other way around is when the wheel can't turn
CF Veteran
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If the rotors are fine I would just go to the newer hub design. From the loosness you described I would think the bearing is toast anyways.Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
It's been like that since before I had a lift... And they don't rub anywhere I think they just make the tires stick out farther than they are supposed to on the studs... But that's still not a good thing especially since I have alloy rims too... So the rotors are fairly new, would you get the hubs or the rotors? Or would it depend on what I find out about the hubs condition when I do the u joint?
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Alright, so what brand and where can I get these hubs?Originally Posted by toasterknight
If the rotors are fine I would just go to the newer hub design. From the loosness you described I would think the bearing is toast anyways.
CF Veteran
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Timken is the preferred brand but I am running the autozone house brand amazon would have them as will any local parts store.Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Alright, so what brand and where can I get these hubs?
CF Veteran
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HA597449 Originally Posted by toasterknight
Timken is the preferred brand but I am running the autozone house brand amazon would have them as will any local parts store.
that is the part number for the timken bearing i believe.
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How have yours held up so far?Originally Posted by toasterknight
Timken is the preferred brand but I am running the autozone house brand amazon would have them as will any local parts store.
CF Veteran
They are fine. I think I only have about 10k on them now so we will see how they hold up. I am not a good measure for parts lasting however as I managed to kill all 4 shocks in less that 20k miles.
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Yeah I've flattened my leaf springs, killed one shock, bent all 4 steel rims, and knocked 2 fender flares off. I'm not exactly the most graceful eitherOriginally Posted by toasterknight
They are fine. I think I only have about 10k on them now so we will see how they hold up. I am not a good measure for parts lasting however as I managed to kill all 4 shocks in less that 20k miles.
CF Veteran
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Okay im not that bad. I just have a bad habit of driving like its a rally car.Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Yeah I've flattened my leaf springs, killed one shock, bent all 4 steel rims, and knocked 2 fender flares off. I'm not exactly the most graceful either
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I have no clue how the rims got bent. I didn't even take the jeep off-road between when I got them and when they bent. Still mad about that.Originally Posted by toasterknight
Okay im not that bad. I just have a bad habit of driving like its a rally car.