ikenchute

I’ve got a question regarding bump stopping the front.

What I’m running…

Running 35 BFG’s on 8" wheels with 4" bs.

RE6200 (which is a 5 1/2" lift) with adjustable upper & lower arms, drop brackets, lowers have the super flex joints on both ends now.
Rear has HE Engineering shackle relocation brackets.
Lift came with a 3" lower bump stop spacer.

Problem…

The stock bump stops they were getting eat up by the sides of the springs during articulation, and with 2 hockey pucks the still weren’t making contact. (that's 5" of bump stop)

With DayStar extended bump stops and no hockey pucks they were constantly getting knocked out by the springs under compression during articulation.

I’ve worked with the arm lengths; track bar adjustment, the axle is centered under the vehicle. Caster and pinion angles are good.

I can’t get the front axle under compression to hit correctly on the bump stops under articulation.

I just changed to the JKS ACOS and dropped down to a RE 4 ¼" front spring. Height came out about the same as with the 5 ½" springs so that’s all good.

I’ve got about 7 ½" between the bump stop and the bump stop pad now.

Running 35’s I need to keep them off the inner fender when flexed so I can turn the wheel. (air box & battery inner fender bumps)

So now to the question how/can you adjust the front axle to hit the bump stops correctly when flexed, while maintaining caster, pinion angle, and centered under the vehicle?

I looked at the prothane coil spring inserts you suggested and am thinking of putting a set in to try, but with the angle changes during articulation of the spring pad vs the bump stop I’m not sure the will help.

Also I’m wondering if limit straps would help with this by limiting droop on the opposite side. I've got plenty of droop.

Any ideas?

ktmracer419

The shorter the control arms the more the axle "sweeps" from front to back when flexing. You haveto find the happy medium between being centered in the wheel opening and the springs remaining as straight up and down as possible upon travel. as for the bumpstops getting hit by the coils are the bumpstop towers bent? (very common occurence) Does it happen on both sides? Do you have any pictures?

This might be good question to start a new thread on. Doesn't pertain to the low cog theme too much.

ikenchute

Hard to show without a picture, but I’ll try…ok go here to look...
http://s1223.photobucket.com/albums/...w/bump%20stop/

see attachment also

　

ktmracer419

Honestly, it looks pretty normal to me for a setup like that. The bottom coil buckets are fixed, so when a lot of flexing happens, the coil will naturally want to bow with the axle.

Having a flatter trackbar angle might help. Also ditching the lower bumpstops, in favor of a longer bumpstop tower (i dont reccomend this, as the added leverage bends them pretty easily)

also, for a quick fix, look into shock shaft bumpstops. I personally would only run these if the upper shock mount is significantly strengthened, and the bar pins at the bottom eliminated however.

ikenchute

Yeah I know, but what I’m trying to do is stop upward travel to keep 35’s off inner fender well.

I was thinking that maybe limiting downward travel my help with what I’m trying to do, by helping to keep the axle from being at such an extreme angle, but I know.

I like the inside the spring bump stops shown earlier.

ktmracer419

these?

jegs coil spring inserts



not low cog tech, so im gonna make this its own thread.

ikenchute

yep, though not that long. i think the short ones will be good on mine for what i'm tring to do

ktmracer419

i would agree.

but most get the tall ones and just cut them down. for some reason they only keep the tall ones in stock, and they arent much more expensive, and you will have extra