http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300731750119?...84.m1423.l2649

Anybody heard of these guys? Tried the product?

Thinking I might put these on if I put a Locker in the front.

Yes I have some money to burn. Dad left me some and My wife told me to spend it on my jeep. Miss my Dad Love my wife!

 

Ive been looking at them for a while its just a big chunk a change with out knowing any one who runs them.

 

What would be the point? Unless you're gonna weld the spider gears together I don't see a need for manual hubs.

 

I sure do. Less rotating mass, less parasitic drag and less spinning of the chain in the transfer case.

 

I see what you're getting at and I think you make several good points. I just don't think I would spend the money on a d30.

 

all that means is less wear and better fuel economy.

but in the real world, I noticed no difference at all when running locking hubs. in fact i kept the hubs locked quite often and couldn't tell the difference when driving.

the main advantage for me by having locking hubs was i could break almost anything in my front axle, unlock the hubs, and drive home without having to turn a wrench. That and i could be cheap and run driveshafts that were too worn/loose for people who didn't have locking hubs lol.

 

What happens when you break a axle u joint you gotta fix it or tow truck home with hubs you just unlock and ride

Also greasable bearings and alot cheaper to replace.

 

mile marker also makes winches, that ive never seen anyone use. they want $122 to ship 40 lbs, are they crazy ? ive read somewhere the lockout hub becomes the weak link & its comparable to a bronco 2 lockout hub. any decent size tire like 31 & up is going to break the lockout hub . if i wheeled w/ these id carry a spare hub. its a good idea but i would worry about how strong it is. if i really wanted lockout hubs i would put the $$$ towards a dana 44 then everything becomes way stronger,plus the warn hd lockout hubs would be available too.

 

if you really want locking hubs find a narrow-trac fsj and take the 44, more reliable axle. alternatively use a disco d30 ( i pulled from my 89 and put in my 95 ). i run it with 33's and a lockrite without regret. the ujoints are known weak points but i bring extras on trails and don't look back. never broken a u joint before! as far as vacuum goes, i run a custom posi-lock ( costs around $40 ) to eliminate the fail-able vacuum system.

 

I personally wouldn't sink that much money into mine for manual locking hubs but if you're going to do it anyway, I'd go with the one Team Cherokee offers. And yeah...........I know it says team grand wagoneer but, team cherokee is part of the same site.

http://www.o.teamgrandwagoneer.com/p...iled/4325.html

 

not really. costs me 75 bucks or so a side for races, seals, and bearings in my 44. then you gotta buy grease and pack them yourself. hubs you just slap on and go.

 

As mentioned, two issues...

Milemarker - Cheap low quality, very cheap factory, and raw materials are used to produce.
The hubs are ranger/bronco2 lock outs and pretty much just pain ole weak.
The bearings are not allowed to be large enough to handle any real tire/wheel weight / load, and the separation between inner/outer bearings is to close, and also makes this a weak design.

Now if you go up to the 5x5 or 5.5" pattern wheel and hub conversion setup, you get a strong setup. But that kits only offered typically by companies that make good to great products and its hundreds more.

Is it worth it? Prolly not. Unless you have a 30" tire or smaller, tow it behind your RV 10-30K miles a year, and have the cash to spend to get the drag off the drivetrain while towing and for a slight bit (VERY slight) increase in MPG for the RV.

 

Well I to counter some of this. I've ran the stock mile marker kit off the shelf for 6 years on 35's with a lockrite up front before parts finally started to give up the ghost. Yes the MM locking hubs are lower quality but they will last as low as you realize what you are a driving.....a d30.

The spindles, hubs, bearings, and bearing spacing are all the same across the Dana 30 hub kits, even the Warn 5 on 5.5" kit. The only advantage going to the 5 on 5.5" kit gains you is a D44 style locking hub with a 27 spline count instead of a ranger flange style 27 spline locking hub. All the kits use the same length and spline count stub shaft and all the parts between Warn's and MM's kits are exchangeable. They both use CJ wheel bearings, seals, spindle nuts, etc. And once you break you the MM hubs, you can just slap on a set of the stronger Warn hubs and them go to a junkyard and pick up a couple of ranger hubs as spares.

 

How many times you replaced all this ?

 

The spindles, hubs, bearings, and bearing spacing are all the same across the Dana 30 hub kits, even the Warn 5 on 5.5" kit. The only advantage going to the 5 on 5.5" kit gains you is a D44 style locking hub with a 27 spline count instead of a ranger flange style 27 spline locking hub. All the kits use the same length and spline count stub shaft and all the parts between Warn's and MM's kits are exchangeable. They both use CJ wheel bearings, seals, spindle nuts, etc. And once you break you the MM hubs, you can just slap on a set of the stronger Warn hubs and them go to a junkyard and pick up a couple of ranger hubs as spares.[/QUOTE]


So could you put together a kit using Junk yard parts?