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ford 9 inch vs 8.8

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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
xjhucks's Avatar
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From: san diego
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default ford 9 inch vs 8.8

is it worth getting a 9 inch or is the 8.8 just as good as far a axles?

what is the best car/truck and year for a ford 9inch for the right length?
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:04 PM
  #2  
99 Purple XJ's Avatar
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
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All 9 inch are the same length but as far as axles go its up to you do you want full width axles if you dont want full length go 8.8 what size tires do you want to run
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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9" hands down, but gets very pricey if you do all the mods. you can easily spend over $2k doing it all from big brand name companies
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Year: 2001
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just find the front and rear axle from an early model bronco mid 70's had disc brakes up front, narrower width and pure beef
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ball buster
just find the front and rear axle from an early model bronco mid 70's had disc brakes up front, narrower width and pure beef
72-77 is the one, mines out of a 72 although the only thing still stock on it is the housing LOL



Originally Posted by 99 Purple XJ
All 9 inch are the same length but as far as axles go its up to you do you want full width axles if you dont want full length go 8.8 what size tires do you want to run
no their not, the EB's and crown vic 9's are narrower than the 78-79 bronco and 150's also some a small bearing 28 spline and some are big bearing 31 spline. so you wanna be stock XJ width or a little wider but not full width like the common 44/9 swap everybody loves? thats the question.

Last edited by jmaxj; Mar 3, 2012 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #6  
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Year: 1988
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The 8.8" is common and easier to find in rear disc, but it is a C-clip axle - which can be an issue off-road (if you drop a C-clip, you'll have a shaft and wheel depart the vehicle. This can be a problem. Also - and a good deal less common - you can "pop the button" off of the inner end of the shaft, which will have the same result.

The 9" is a true semi-float axle - by definition, it has to be, because it's a third member axle, and there's no way you could get into it to remove the C-clip to remove the shaft. Therefore, the halfshafts are retained by pressed-on bearings and plates that are bolted to the ends of the housing.

The 9" can also handle more power/torque input - not just because of the larger gears (it's really only an eighth of an inch larger,) but because - as I recall - the pinion has a third bearing at the nose, inside the ring gear. This is common on high-strength axles, the pinion shaft will have a pilot on the inner (working) and, and there will be a bearing in the carrier that the pilot rides in (in addition to the two on the yoke end.)

However, the 9" halted production around 1986, so you'll have to dig to find one. Pretty much all of them will be full-width axles, they'll either be from full-size trucks & vans (1/2- and 3/4-ton) or full-size passenger cars - making them, generally, two to six inches wider than the XJ.

To find a "native disc" 9" rear, look in Lincoln Continental and Mark series, about 1980-1986.

Also, make sure you don't confuse the 8" axle with the 9" - they're both third-member axles, but can be readily differentiated. Try to put a socket and extension on the lower carrier stud nuts or screws - if you can get the socket straight on, it's a 9". If you have to use an end wrench instead, it's an 8".

The 8" is also a decent axle, but it's lacking in aftermarket support - it's possible to build a 9" axle using entirely aftermarket parts.

You can spot the 8" or 9" readily by examining the housing - instead of being made from a cast centre section, the centre section is built-up from welded sheetmetal. The tubes are welded to the centre section, and are often made from sheetmetal as well.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 5-90
The 8.8" is common and easier to find in rear disc, but it is a C-clip axle - which can be an issue off-road (if you drop a C-clip, you'll have a shaft and wheel depart the vehicle. This can be a problem. Also - and a good deal less common - you can "pop the button" off of the inner end of the shaft, which will have the same result.

The 9" is a true semi-float axle - by definition, it has to be, because it's a third member axle, and there's no way you could get into it to remove the C-clip to remove the shaft. Therefore, the halfshafts are retained by pressed-on bearings and plates that are bolted to the ends of the housing.

The 9" can also handle more power/torque input - not just because of the larger gears (it's really only an eighth of an inch larger,) but because - as I recall - the pinion has a third bearing at the nose, inside the ring gear. This is common on high-strength axles, the pinion shaft will have a pilot on the inner (working) and, and there will be a bearing in the carrier that the pilot rides in (in addition to the two on the yoke end.)

However, the 9" halted production around 1986, so you'll have to dig to find one. Pretty much all of them will be full-width axles, they'll either be from full-size trucks & vans (1/2- and 3/4-ton) or full-size passenger cars - making them, generally, two to six inches wider than the XJ.

To find a "native disc" 9" rear, look in Lincoln Continental and Mark series, about 1980-1986.

Also, make sure you don't confuse the 8" axle with the 9" - they're both third-member axles, but can be readily differentiated. Try to put a socket and extension on the lower carrier stud nuts or screws - if you can get the socket straight on, it's a 9". If you have to use an end wrench instead, it's an 8".

The 8" is also a decent axle, but it's lacking in aftermarket support - it's possible to build a 9" axle using entirely aftermarket parts.

You can spot the 8" or 9" readily by examining the housing - instead of being made from a cast centre section, the centre section is built-up from welded sheetmetal. The tubes are welded to the centre section, and are often made from sheetmetal as well.
you always have the best info
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 04:32 AM
  #8  
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Year: 1986
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Originally Posted by 5-90
Also, make sure you don't confuse the 8" axle with the 9" - they're both third-member axles, but can be readily differentiated. Try to put a socket and extension on the lower carrier stud nuts or screws - if you can get the socket straight on, it's a 9". If you have to use an end wrench instead, it's an 8".
Correct info but backwards. 8" is a straight shot on the lower bolt, 9" needs a wrench.



Last edited by jbsjunk; Mar 3, 2012 at 04:41 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 04:54 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by jbsjunk
Correct info but backwards. 8" is a straight shot on the lower bolt, 9" needs a wrench.


Ah - thank you. I prefer to work with Dana gear...
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #10  
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From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
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Originally Posted by 5-90

The 9" can also handle more power/torque input - not just because of the larger gears (it's really only an eighth of an inch larger,) but because - as I recall - the pinion has a third bearing at the nose, inside the ring gear. This is common on high-strength axles, the pinion shaft will have a pilot on the inner (working) and, and there will be a bearing in the carrier that the pilot rides in (in addition to the two on the yoke end.)
.
9's are super stout. But you can break the inner pinion bearing out of the housing... Here's mine after a year of abuse.

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #11  
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From: Menifee, CA
Year: 1989
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Is that the stock case? Do you think an aftermarket case could have prevented that?
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #12  
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You obviously are up for the fab work, but another option is the D44 from a isuzu rodeo/ honda passport, same width as the 8.8 IIRC, very reasonable, I think most JYs dont realize they a D44. Find one from a 4wd and you get disc brakes, and are very common in 4.56 ratio. Downside they are 6x5.5 lug pattern, but this can be rectified with adapters, or be complemented with a waggy front D44 swap. Just my $.02
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #13  
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From: san diego
Year: 1998
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i want to be as close to stock xj.....id love to do wider but im really just trying to get this dana 35 out on the rear of my xj.......
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #14  
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XJ 29 Spline 8.25, bolt in, just grab DS, and buy new ubolts for the 8.25.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #15  
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From: san diego
Year: 1998
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well scratch the 8.8/9inch.....

went to the junk yard and found a dana 44 out of a 87 cherokee. only want $180.

so now my question is well the drive shaft work? i have a iron hack and tap with front drive shaft.

going tomorrow to pick it up......
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