I have built an exhaust system to meet 5 objectives 1. To keep heat out of the engine bay 2. To keep heat away from the transmission 3. to keep heat away from the front passenger side 4. To increase flow 5. Having real cooled air induce in to the cold air filter (more power) 6. To keep water off of the header 7. To help keep down the exhaust noise (the wrap). There is a lot more noise coming from the tubes of your header then you think

I started with a good header; I have “toque tubes” by Banks. I painted them with spray paint that can withstand high heat, I cured them in my oven, in 3 fazes (The wife loved that). I raped them and socked the wrap with the same paint, I also cured it again. This alone will solve 3 things, (I hope) 1. To keep heat in the header and out of the engine bay, increased exhaust flow, to keep water from the header, and to reduce noise. I guess that’s 4 things.

After the header; I have 2.5-inch pipe all the way to the end of the system I painted the pipe with the same paint I did for the header. No, I did not cure the pipe, the oven is not big enough 😊. I wrapped the pipe; I socked the wrap with the same paint used for the header. The tip at the end of the tail pipe is a 30-degree bend with a 70-degree angle slice pointing rearward.

I am trying to understand the laws of thermodynamics and how it may apply to my exhaust. This is what I think I know. Heat moves faster than cold, and the speed of the exhaust will increase as the differences between the 2 temperatures (hot and cold) increased.

I am also creating a small vacuum pocket at the tip of the exhaust pipe by using a 30-degree bend and a 70-degree slice on the stinger pointing rearward. This will create a low pressure that will also help with the flow rate

All this to get 3 or 4 present more power. That does not sound like much but if you are putting out 250 all ready then you could gain 7.5 H.P. or maybe even more.

So, I have not seen anyone do this before (maybe there is a reason for that) it’s a lot of work. but it’s fun, doing research, trying to making something work better than it did before (I hope).

I welcome any input into this subject

 

Please. For the love of God, stop raping your header. That's just uncalled for.

Second, stop posting imaginary numbers. You're completely speculating everything unless you dyno tested pre and post and recorded the results. Pretty sure butt dynos can't be calibrated.

Keep it real on this site or GTFO. I'm not going to sugar coat it. This forum prides itself on information accuracy. Keep posting BS and you're gonna be called on it.

 

You wrapped the entire exhaust system with something then you soaked that stuff in paint? That sounds like something that will cook/burn/stink/smoke for a long time.

I would like to see pictures of all this.

 

Every wrapped header I've ever dealt with trapped moisture and hid rust and cracks at the collector.

 

I like to talk to the one who said I am not keeping it real. ok if you think

 

Right here boss.

Attach a photo of your dyno results before and after. Let's see the data.

 

I did post more then that but I am not sure where it went. have to go now but I will redo that post when I get back.

 

*cuts/pastes Google doc

 

ok, I am here to learn and I am not afraid of being wrong about something, that is part of the learning prosses. if you think I am wrong about something then tell me why and if you don't know then how can you say I am wrong. the 250 HP was a easy number to use and it is a HP that can be reached with a stroker. the 3 present is a reasonable number. if you think it is more or less then tell me what it is and why. the paint I am using is header paint that will withstand the heat, the wrap is to keep heat out of the bay to get cooler air into the engine and also to be able to left the hood with out getting burned, the exhaust pipe runs way to close to the transmission . my wife gets a hot foot when she sets on the passenger side. so yes it is necessary even if I destroy the headers. I have read about the rust thing when you wrap, but I have never seen pictures of it and I have seen post about my friend this said that. I am welling to be a genny pig on this. this is a hobby for me, learning about what happens if I do this or that. I am going to share what I have learned with pictures. if I am wrong then, I get a new exhaust system and we all learn something, if I am right then we all learn something. that is why I came to this place to learn and to share what I have leaned.

 

I can say you're wrong because you're grabbing numbers out of thin air, treating these numbers as fact, and making up results from these unicorn statistics. Tell me where I'm wrong.

I have no issues with anything you want to do, tinker all you want. My issue is misinformation being dispensed like it's gospel. Someone might read that and waste their time and money doing something completely unnecessary in hopes of a hp gain.

You've already stated you just used convenient numbers, so quit doubling down on stupid.

As far as the rest of this is concerned, painting and curing in your kitchen oven isn't something I'd do or recommend, although it might explain a lot here. My condolences to your wife.

If the cabin is getting too hot for your wife, maybe some metal shielding underneath and thermal matting under the carpet would be more effective. Probably cheaper and less of a health concern to boot.

 

no, I'm not 2 to 5 present is the range you can expect from a good exhaust system. the spread is that way depending or you car and the system. in fact it is possible to lose power again, depending the car and the exhaust system.
check this link out. it is one of many sites. as I said the 250 HP is a HP that is reachable and the 3 present is just one present over the lowest percentage.
https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/ga...xhaust-system/

The Most You Can Gain is 2-5%

If you want to know how much power you can expect to gain from adding an exhaust system to your car, assume that your engine will get 2-5% more powerful. More specifically, large engines like a big 6.0L V8 typically see about a 2%-3% horsepower increase. Smaller engines, like a 1.8L 4-cylinder, typically see a 3-5% horsepower increase.
check before you tell someone they are talking stupid, and besides it is rude. I am not here to make any enemies. I would like to know what you think and the reason behind them. I just gave mine. what is yours.

 

You are blind to the fact that you haven't justified your gains. What you've done with your high heat paint and wrap is all fine and dandy but your providing Zero proof. Applying theory behind your "mods" and then proclaiming the gains because you've fulfilled the parameters to your theory does not guarantee your results.

"This alone will solve 3 things, (I hope) 1. To keep heat in the header and out of the engine bay, increased exhaust flow, to keep water from the header, and to reduce noise. I guess that’s 4 things."

Wrapping your exhaust and painting it will do absolutely nothing to increase its flow.

 

I don't care what's "achievable" from a made up, imaginary number, from an imaginary stroked motor. I don't care about hypothetical. I care about actual, real numbers. What is YOUR baseline hp? When you changed your setup, what was YOUR final result? How much of a hp gain did YOU get? Are you picking up what I'm laying down? We could swap bovine excrement sites all day.

We're done here. Take your YouTube degree and preach to the sheeple on Fakebook.

 

Thank you.

I absolutely love the fact he's willing to die on that hill, after saying "I have read about the rust thing when you wrap, but I have never seen pictures of it and I have seen post about my friend this said that", it's exactly the same ****.

And before people start in with "you're being a little harsh" another post of his blames the exhaust for overheating the AW4....get out of here with that BS, it's just easier to cull this now...