Electrical System Upgrade
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Electrical System Upgrade
I'm lookin to upgrade my alternator & battery to handle the heavy load from the winch, the KC roof lights, & the high end car audio system in my 98XJ limited.
The alternator, I'm really looking at is the PowerMaster High Output which is priced at $413.99 but I'm open to other suggestions for a cheaper models that are as good as this one, or if I can catch someone one on here selling one?? The PowerMaster puts out 170 & 110 at idle & its part number is OPT8050-160 from 4wd.com!! Link, 4wd.com:
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Performance-Electrical/High-Output-Alternator.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=413&t_pt=3340&t_pn=POW4 3311
Features to this yellow Top
Group D31T
Cold cranking amps: 900
Cranking amps: 1125
Reserve capacity: 155 minutes
Ampere Hours: 75
Top terminal
Length: 12-13/16"
Width 6-1/2"
Height 9-3/8"
Fyi, I'm open to listen to any other recommendations that are just as good as the Yellow Top Deep Cycle batteries. & remember, this is a single battery systems, so any other suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you to all that may help & for reading this novel I just wrote, lol!!
The alternator, I'm really looking at is the PowerMaster High Output which is priced at $413.99 but I'm open to other suggestions for a cheaper models that are as good as this one, or if I can catch someone one on here selling one?? The PowerMaster puts out 170 & 110 at idle & its part number is OPT8050-160 from 4wd.com!! Link, 4wd.com:
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Performance-Electrical/High-Output-Alternator.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=413&t_pt=3340&t_pn=POW4 3311
Features to this yellow Top
Group D31T
Cold cranking amps: 900
Cranking amps: 1125
Reserve capacity: 155 minutes
Ampere Hours: 75
Top terminal
Length: 12-13/16"
Width 6-1/2"
Height 9-3/8"
Fyi, I'm open to listen to any other recommendations that are just as good as the Yellow Top Deep Cycle batteries. & remember, this is a single battery systems, so any other suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you to all that may help & for reading this novel I just wrote, lol!!
Last edited by SeniorXJ; 12-02-2013 at 07:45 AM.
#5
Senior Member
i have 1000w amp, 4x100w lights and have winch plans and more lights, who am i kidding?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/91-98-JEEP-CH...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1
http://www.kelleyswip.com/ ---member on here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/5-90-711/
the alternator is 220a, ive had it for a year, it took some grinding of the bracket to fit
the 1awg wire is from the kelleyswip site, he posts here
happy with both purchases, will buy from both again...
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/91-98-JEEP-CH...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1
http://www.kelleyswip.com/ ---member on here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/5-90-711/
the alternator is 220a, ive had it for a year, it took some grinding of the bracket to fit
the 1awg wire is from the kelleyswip site, he posts here
happy with both purchases, will buy from both again...
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm going with either an Odyssey or an Optima as i've been running yellow tops for many years with zero issues.
As for the alt, ive decided to do one of the following,
- Grab the 136amp alt out of xxx & wind it up a bit more,
- I've read on using a Grand Cherokee case & getting 160 out of it,
- Grab a 160 amp alt out of a 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7l
((& fyi, I wont buy a no name brand alt off of ebay!!))
Plus i'm thinkin of using a smaller pulley explained on this site:
http://alternatorparts.com/alternator-pulley-size.html
I've heard that smaller pulleys will kill it faster & i'm ok with that cause the amp load at idle is higher.
IF my research says different on the pulley, ill install an idle switch that will hold the RPMs up to whatever I set it too!!
I thank u guys for the suggestions & help!!
As for the alt, ive decided to do one of the following,
- Grab the 136amp alt out of xxx & wind it up a bit more,
- I've read on using a Grand Cherokee case & getting 160 out of it,
- Grab a 160 amp alt out of a 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7l
((& fyi, I wont buy a no name brand alt off of ebay!!))
Plus i'm thinkin of using a smaller pulley explained on this site:
http://alternatorparts.com/alternator-pulley-size.html
I've heard that smaller pulleys will kill it faster & i'm ok with that cause the amp load at idle is higher.
IF my research says different on the pulley, ill install an idle switch that will hold the RPMs up to whatever I set it too!!
I thank u guys for the suggestions & help!!
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#10
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
If you really want to go big, go dual batteries + a big alternator (and obviously oversized wire everywhere, 1/0 gauge or 00 gauge big three at minimum). The stock XJ wiring is simply a joke by some terrible accountant trying to pinch costs.
Copying and pasting a bit:
A Dodge Durango 160 amp alternator could be as cheap as $20 at a you-pull junkyard, and I'd have it rebuilt and possibly find a place that can rewind it for more power. I had my alternator rebuilt for about $70 with new bearings, brushes, and a thorough cleaning, for a total of about $100 when I consider gas to the Junkyard and alternator shop. A reman unit runs around $140-160 at the parts store. Run the stock pulley from the I6 for more low-rpm charging as well and if you winch alot, consider adding a throttle stop thing that adjusts your idle. And a grinder is only $15 at harbor freight Only takes a little bit of massaging to get it into place, 10-15mins tops.
That 220 unit looks like it ships with a bench test sheet (proof of output), so it wouldn't be the worst idea, if you cant find a shop to rewind the Durango alternator for more power. Winches draw up to 900ish amps as Ive been told, so more amps will speed up battery recovery time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...CategoryExpand
See if you can find a tool like this (obviously this one is way more expensive than you would need for a 1-car job), or find some place that can crimp wires for you.
http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-to...ping-tool.html
I got mine hydraulically crimped at a welding supply store, and they didnt even charge me for the service (I brought my own wires as well, but bought the ring terminals from them). Worth a shot at least.
Also, I love these fuseholders. Add a lock-nut from Ace or somewhere, and conductive electrical grease (marine type) for max reliability;
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...143_0006393830
And switch to HID lights in the offroad lights if possible, would reduce your current draw to about 35w per light. Probably a PITA though, but would be worth it (200% more efficient or so in top-gear maths).
I prefer Diehard Platinum, as previously stated in the thread. They just seem to last longer and are IMO the best built battery on the market for the price. Dual batteries are the ****, but a single Diehard/Optima/Kintik is no slouch either. And at the very least upgrade the Alternator to Batt + cable, and the Batt - to chassis Ground cable to thick wire. Seems like you have it mostly covered though. Good luck!
Copying and pasting a bit:
A Dodge Durango 160 amp alternator could be as cheap as $20 at a you-pull junkyard, and I'd have it rebuilt and possibly find a place that can rewind it for more power. I had my alternator rebuilt for about $70 with new bearings, brushes, and a thorough cleaning, for a total of about $100 when I consider gas to the Junkyard and alternator shop. A reman unit runs around $140-160 at the parts store. Run the stock pulley from the I6 for more low-rpm charging as well and if you winch alot, consider adding a throttle stop thing that adjusts your idle. And a grinder is only $15 at harbor freight Only takes a little bit of massaging to get it into place, 10-15mins tops.
That 220 unit looks like it ships with a bench test sheet (proof of output), so it wouldn't be the worst idea, if you cant find a shop to rewind the Durango alternator for more power. Winches draw up to 900ish amps as Ive been told, so more amps will speed up battery recovery time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...CategoryExpand
See if you can find a tool like this (obviously this one is way more expensive than you would need for a 1-car job), or find some place that can crimp wires for you.
http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-to...ping-tool.html
I got mine hydraulically crimped at a welding supply store, and they didnt even charge me for the service (I brought my own wires as well, but bought the ring terminals from them). Worth a shot at least.
Also, I love these fuseholders. Add a lock-nut from Ace or somewhere, and conductive electrical grease (marine type) for max reliability;
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...143_0006393830
And switch to HID lights in the offroad lights if possible, would reduce your current draw to about 35w per light. Probably a PITA though, but would be worth it (200% more efficient or so in top-gear maths).
I prefer Diehard Platinum, as previously stated in the thread. They just seem to last longer and are IMO the best built battery on the market for the price. Dual batteries are the ****, but a single Diehard/Optima/Kintik is no slouch either. And at the very least upgrade the Alternator to Batt + cable, and the Batt - to chassis Ground cable to thick wire. Seems like you have it mostly covered though. Good luck!
Last edited by investinwaffles; 12-06-2013 at 01:10 AM.
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Probably gonna pick up a brand new Dodge Durango 160 amp alternator. No junkyard parts for me as one should never go cheap on ur electrical system.
Does anyone know what this alt puts out at idle?
Does anyone know what this alt puts out at idle?
#12
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Not exactly sure, but probably around 80 or so amps at idle (600rpm), and full output at 1500rpm or so.
BTW, Advanced auto parts has a 35% off everything coupon right now. Could save you some cash potentially (just need to call/go to the store and bug the parts guys until they find the right unit). I never have good luck with the online parts directories for some reason.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5321110
BTW, Advanced auto parts has a 35% off everything coupon right now. Could save you some cash potentially (just need to call/go to the store and bug the parts guys until they find the right unit). I never have good luck with the online parts directories for some reason.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5321110
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Not exactly sure, but probably around 80 or so amps at idle (600rpm), and full output at 1500rpm or so.
BTW, Advanced auto parts has a 35% off everything coupon right now. Could save you some cash potentially (just need to call/go to the store and bug the parts guys until they find the right unit). I never have good luck with the online parts directories for some reason.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5321110
BTW, Advanced auto parts has a 35% off everything coupon right now. Could save you some cash potentially (just need to call/go to the store and bug the parts guys until they find the right unit). I never have good luck with the online parts directories for some reason.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5321110
If I can pick up a brand new alt for close to the same $100 buck price tag as a remanufactured alt, then ill go for that. If not then ill grab a remanufactured alt since there cheaper then new & better then used from the yard!! (still need a part# & from which Durango motor?)
Oh & its going into a 98 XJ Limited with AC, if that helps any...
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