So Dukie, did you just use metal tubes and hose clamps to splice the cooler into the p/s pump(return side, of course)?

 

cut the metal tube at the angle I wanted the hose to come off, stuck rubber hose on, hose clamped, done

 

cool, thanks dukie!!

 

Did the Durango box this weekend and I gotta say, it's my favorite upgrade I've done to my XJ so far. My stock box wasn't shot, it was just leaking at the output seal and I hate leaks. It is definitely an upgrade. Much easier to turn the tires on pavement. Haven't taken it offroad yet.

 

Anybody have a Durango box that had a bit of slop in it right out of the box? I got mine remanufactured off Rockauto (Lares brand).

Of course the 21 year old dude at the alignment shop said "Oh just go ahead and tighten up the nut at the top"... Then proceeded to tell me a story of him flipping his jeep taking a 90 degree turn on pavement going 60... Don't exactly want to take his opinion.

Plus I've read all the negatives of simply tightening that up a bit. Not really a fan of that route.

 

it's possible that they never adjusted the sector shaft preload correctly when they rebuilt it. The adjustment does work when it's done correctly.
However it's also possible that the box internals are shot (a reman will not fix this)

I wouldn't run it with slop in the box though, especially a reman box - personally i'd send it back and get another one on their dime.

 

Well. My two cents after some time after the ugrade on the trails. I had to use only 2washers in front of the spacer. While wheeling williams pass last week, my gear box sheard the grade 8bolts due to the washers. Also it put so much torque on the frame that it xracked my frame badly. So... just be cautious.

 

This is the route I would like to go. But I don't have a second ride so for it to be out of commission for a couple weeks is somewhat out of the question. I may try to adjust it just a smidge to see how it does. If not much of a difference, then I may grab another from a local parts store. Or find a local used XJ box for cheap while I send the Durango box back to Rockauto. I dunno yet.

What size bolts did you use? Torque them properly? With blue loctite?

 

There is no shear in those bolts...tension yes. Something else was in play to make the bolt shear, and likely contributed to the frame cracking also. What the heck were you doing when it happened?

 

I used 5" bolts and yes they were torqued properly. I did not use locktite.

 

I am doing my Durango upgrade tomorrow. I bought the C-Rok frame plate and I plan on using the bolt sleeves too. I got washers for spacers. I brought the box to Ace hardware to get new grade 8 bolts and if I remember correctly, they are supposed to be 7/16 coarse pitch? We tried everything from metrics to SAE and the 7/16 coarse was the best fit. It seems like they all 'wiggle' in the box threads (consistent and ge threads are clean. I also got it from NAPA-FYI)

Did anyone else experience this? It could just be me being over critical on what might be normal 'play'.

 

I had the same issue. They snug up when torqued, but I believe that played a part in my failure on the trail with that swap.

 

$118 shipped from detroitaxle

I installed my durango box and did not need to add any washers.
My Upcountry has some weird things upgraded from the factory though...

 

I'm hoping this isn't a repeat question, but I have an issue.

I did the box swap, also I did a zj pitman arm swap. During the install I also had to replace the tie rod end cause it was due for replacement. So it's all installed and it's working great, the only issue is I can't steer all the way to the right. When the steering wheel is straight, I can turn the wheel to the right one full rotation, and to the left almost two full rotations. It turns to the left the whole way, but definitely not to the right. I didn't turn the steering wheel during the install process cause it was locked, and the steering shaft can only be installed one way. What am I doing wrong? Should I adjust the sleeve until the steering wheel makes one full turn? How much tolerance is safe to play with on it? And, noob question, but if I adjust the sleeve so the steering wheel turns one full rotation, won't that take away from my steering to the left afterwards? I could be investigating this issue in the wrong direction, so what should I do or what did I do wrong?
Please help, thank you.

 

I straightened my steering and the wheel was upside down. So I removed the steering shaft, turned the wheel to normal, reinstalled the shaft, and adjusted the drag link sleeve just a hair. All is operating as it should for now. I just hope it stays this way.

Sorry for the thread jack dukie. I took a picture of me giving my old box and brace the bird like you did, and posted it on the PA thread lol.