Does anyone happen to know the inside diameter the ZJ backing plates need to be to clear the 8.25? Also, what size do the holes for the studs need to be drilled out to? Thanks!

 

The caliper bracket only needs a bit taken off. You can do it with a sanding drum or the like.

As for the mounting bolt holes, just the first drill bit that won't fit through the holes as they are.

Be sure to get the lug studs and caliper mounting studs from the donor GC!!

 

I'm not certain of the diameter of the backing plate hole.... I just used my dremel for about 5 min on each side when I swapped my drums for discs. G/L and it's going to make a world of difference

 

Yup.

 

Does it really make that much of a difference?

 

Does what make that much of a difference?

Rear discs? Yes.

 

Cruiser54 I can understand getting the caliper mounting studs but why do you need the lug ones? Im thinking of doing this and want to make sure I get what I need in 1 trip. Thanks

 

Rotor is thicker than the drum was.

 

Makes sense Thanks

 

Here is my write up on our local forum starting at post 204

http://www.scc4x4.com/forum/showthre...ld-Blue/page21

 

[QUOTE=xjtrailrider;1532313]Here is my write up on our local forum starting at post 204

http://www.scc4x4.com/forum/showthre...ld-Blue/page21


I like it.

 

My long arms and my disc brake conversion were the 2 best things that ever happened

 

I looked over your write-up and it looks like I can get away with enlarging the center to 3.30 inches and the mounting holes to 7/16. Would you agree?

 

I didnt take a measurement on the bore. Like everyone I used a sanding drum attached to a drill and sanded till the mount fit. As long as the mounting bolts line up you're good to go.

And yes this is all worth the trouble! I'm not using the ZJ prop valve and it still stops great on/off road.

 

I don't think the mounting stud holes are anywhere near 7/16. Pretty much use the first drill bit you've got that doesn't fit through. You're only opening up those holes a little.