PocketsEmpty

Pretty cool idea. You should definitely do it! Welcome to the forums, by the way. Tons of great info here--check out the Build Threads.

smdirtrider

Thank you for the welcome. I've been searching the threads for a while. I swear it's like a ritual. First thing in the morning and last thing at night. Ill keep searching through it all and try to find something. Just surprised I haven't found anything at all. I may just trial and error it myself then start my own thread on it once it all comes together. Try and help anyone else out with the same ideas.
I really like how yours came out btw. Looks super clean. I'm goin with all red lighting once I figure this all out and can hopefully find a proper size LED to pop in those holes.

PocketsEmpty

Thanks! I plan on finding two more dome lights for the rear hatch, to light up the ground when the hatch is open. I'll update the thread when I do that, but it probably won't be for a while. Tons of other projects on the list currently!

If I were you, I'd get measurements of those openings and try to find a fixture that would fit. Go to a junkyard with those measurements, who knows what you might find!

ZRJ '00 Cherokee XJ

Your interior lights look great. I'm in the process of swapping every light on my 2000 to LED and they look great as well. I have done front dome and kick panels. Waiting on the rear dome to get here. Do you believe my 2 dome lights were different? Irritating.


Anyway...have a question...I put LEDs in my turn signals and they don't light correctly or blink like theyre burned out (theyre not). Any ideas on why? The side marker lights and lights above the license plate work fine. Its just the damn turn signals.

k4ylr

You need to replace the flasher relay under your driver's side kick panel. Regular flashers work on thermal load and LEDs don't operate on nearly the same level as incandescent bulbs.

PocketsEmpty

This...I haven't messed with turn signals yet, but I think you need an electronic-based relay. Not sure if you can get one that's just plug and play.

k4ylr

Here you go

You'll probably want load resistors as well. When my headlights are on, the indicators stay dimly lit on the gauge cluster and the SBLED guys mentioned installing these. Haven't done it myself but if it bothers you I'd look into it:

PocketsEmpty

Nice! Thanks for that info! I haven't seen a need for load resistors yet in the LED's I've done, which include the shifter bezels, instrument cluster, license plate light and the domes obviously in the thread here...but I can see where it all would be needed for proper turn signal and brake light functionality.

slowjunk

lights look great but looks like lot of work for me lol. i want something that's plug and play. there's a member who was selling a package deal i can't find his thread anybody help me out here.

PocketsEmpty

It really only took me just shy of 2 hours to do all of the domes and stuff. Not too bad really.

I'm not sure I'd rely on that guy. I remember seeing the thread, but it seems to have been dead for a while. If someone could reliably do a package like that, it would be great, but I think it would require more than one person. You're best off getting the list of all the specific light #'s you need, and do them little by little. That's how I've been doing it.

HYRYSC

Looks really sharp, but more important, is functional! Great job!

k4ylr

The issue I ran into was that when my headlights are pulled on, the indicators are both lit up with a slight green hue. From what google-fu I've done and talking with the fellas at SBLED they said a resistor was probably the best bet. It doesn't bother me enough to drop 40$ on 4 resistors so here I am lol.

PocketsEmpty

Here's an updated shot of the LEDs with my new floor

Omnipotent Octopus

Off topic, quick question. What did you do your floors with? Also I'm wondering how well it adheres to that square sound deadening material stuff on your rear most floor pan.

PocketsEmpty

See my build thread for more details on it (in signature), but I used Monstaliner. It's great so far but I'm still letting it cure for a couple days before I put it back together. Seems to adhere well so far. I decided to risk it because removing that nonsense would be a big effort.