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a death wobble

Old Dec 7, 2017 | 08:38 AM
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??????'s Avatar
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Default a death wobble

i have an 89 jeep cherokee with 9"inches of lift in the rear and 7" inches in the front on 35s. i get a death wobble but only when i brake real hard and turn one directon or the other and all the steering is tight, i know for sure i need a new track bar and drop pitman arm but i wanted to know what y'all know first

Last edited by ??????; Dec 7, 2017 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 11:28 AM
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if you know for sure that you need those parts change them and report back. it could be the combination of both of those parts being bad that is causing the death wobble. It may help to list the type steering that you are running too. If you are at 7" in the front i'm sure you are probably on long arms. Check the length and adjust if needed to make sure the axle is not farther forward or back from left to right.
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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I assume nothing anymore after seeing what some of these guys put together and think is a "good build". If you know anything about steering/suspension you would know that a track bar plays a pretty big role in death wobble. If you need a drop pitman arm then that indicates your drag link is on a too steep of an angle. Another problem. Fix these things first like dan98 said then report back.
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:30 PM
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If you know you need a track bar, that's probably the main issue. MOST death wobble is track bar related despite people thinking its a bad stabilizer.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 08:44 AM
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well i just found my biggest issue the ball joints on both sides went bad it needs new hub assemblys on both sides so i decided im just going to pull the axle assembly apart and rebuild it and do a few upgrades to the axles and the steering and fix the issues i just found plus maby add a locker since i already have one in the rear. and no actualy i dont have a long arm kit i have stock control arms stretched as far as they'll go its defintley going to be a long process but worth it so thanks for the imput guys it helped.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 09:54 AM
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For the lift that you are running a long arm kit would give a better ride quality and be more stable. It probably could not hurt upgrading to a long arm kit wile you are rebuilding the front axle and steering. Your caster angle and front pinion angle will be better with the long arms as well.
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ??????
well i just found my biggest issue the ball joints on both sides went bad it needs new hub assemblys on both sides so i decided im just going to pull the axle assembly apart and rebuild it and do a few upgrades to the axles and the steering and fix the issues i just found plus maby add a locker since i already have one in the rear. and no actualy i dont have a long arm kit i have stock control arms stretched as far as they'll go its defintley going to be a long process but worth it so thanks for the imput guys it helped.

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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ??????
i have an 89 jeep cherokee with 9"inches of lift in the rear and 7" inches in the front on 35s. i get a death wobble but only when i brake real hard and turn one directon or the other and all the steering is tight, i know for sure i need a new track bar and drop pitman arm but i wanted to know what y'all know first
First of all, this right here will cause problems even if all your steering and axle link components are brand new. Unless you've lengthened your lower control arms to correct to 6* of positive caster, you need to take some lift out of the rear of that thing.

2" of lift in the rear over the front is essentially going to set your caster to zero or less, which will cause the problem you're describing.
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
First of all, this right here will cause problems even if all your steering and axle link components are brand new. Unless you've lengthened your lower control arms to correct to 6* of positive caster, you need to take some lift out of the rear of that thing.

2" of lift in the rear over the front is essentially going to set your caster to zero or less, which will cause the problem you're describing.
My thoughts exactly. Caster has to be right or it will drive bad. I know Basslicks knows this, but for those that don't know, Caster is relative to level ground, not the vehicle. So if you raise the rear of the vehicle higher than the front you lose Caster.
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthyMcStealth
My thoughts exactly. Caster has to be right or it will drive bad. I know Basslicks knows this, but for those that don't know, Caster is relative to level ground, not the vehicle. So if you raise the rear of the vehicle higher than the front you lose Caster.
Yup
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ??????
well i just found my biggest issue the ball joints on both sides went bad it needs new hub assemblys on both sides so i decided im just going to pull the axle assembly apart and rebuild it and do a few upgrades to the axles and the steering and fix the issues i just found plus maby add a locker since i already have one in the rear. and no actualy i dont have a long arm kit i have stock control arms stretched as far as they'll go its defintley going to be a long process but worth it so thanks for the imput guys it helped.
Stock arms and 7" of lift on 35s.... I wanna see some pictures cuz your front axle has got to be about under your feet lol
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthyMcStealth
My thoughts exactly. Caster has to be right or it will drive bad. I know Basslicks knows this, but for those that don't know, Caster is relative to level ground, not the vehicle. So if you raise the rear of the vehicle higher than the front you lose Caster.
^^ I love physics...they're one of my favorite things.
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