Ok so I'm starting my build. I have an 01 sport, 4 door. It's automatic, it has a Dana 35 "Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle" with a 3.55 axle ratio.
I have decided on a Rough Country 4.5" X Series lift.
SO, here is the question; Will I need or should I get a CV rear drive shaft and a Split Yolk Eliminator with a 4.5" lift? Also, is it necessary to get the control arm drop kit with their "X-Flex control arms" It says they are good for up to 8" of lift so, why the drop kit?
Thank you for your info.
Cody

 

Control arm drop kit is to correct the suspension geometry. Soften ride and increases flex. SYE or TC drop will be required, to cure lift induced driveline vibrations. TC Drop might work, SYE Will work, for this. The flex arm are good to 8", as far as pinion and caster adjustabilty goes, ride quality improvement has to do with the angles the arms are running at.

 

Transfer case drop comes with the kit.. Will that be enough? It drops 1.5 inches off the angle..

 

I feel like I should point out it's a SLIP yoke eliminator.

 

Angles are measured in degrees not inches. My suggestion is to install the lift, but NOT THE DROP. After doing the alignment test drive. If you have vibes, MEASURE the driveline angles to determine what you will need to do to correct the vibes.
A TC drop should be no more than 1" and should change the TC output angle about 2-3 degrees. Will it work, MAYBE and sometimes. Will the SYE work, YES, if done correctly.

 

Sorry, posting from my phone. Spell correction "fixed" my dislexic transposition of the letters.
I was not given degrees of angle, the sales person told me it drops the TC 1.5 inches so, I am just trying to give the most information in the least amount of words. Thanks for the catch. And the info.

 

Should I angle the differential up a few degrees? Or leave that too..

 

No Prob, we are here to help each other. I figured there was sales Slime involved.
On the TC Drop if it costs more than $10 you are getting ripped off. You can buy the materials to make your own at Lowes for less than $10 (some bolts and a stack of washers) and it will be adjustable.

 

if you have the money, go for the SYE. if thats a stretch, get a TC drop or, like stated before, get some washers and bolts.

 

Awesome! 10 dollars is sounding more like my budget. Ha ha!
Is there a significant advantage to having a SYE over a TC drop? I don't want to skimp just to save a few bucks if one is clearly better than the other.

 

the point 93gc40 is trying to make is that you wont know what driveline angles to correct, until you have your components installed.....with different axle, diff, thrid member, tire, leaf spring combinations, not one remedy will be the same

shims that are installed between the leaf packs & axle will angle the differential to point towards the TC output.....these come in different degrees.....a simple TC drop could remedy your vibrations, or if its not enough, you add shims of the proper degrees, or maybe extended leaf spring hangers....tho a slip yoke eliminator will remedy a fair amount of vibes (due to a stronger attachment to the TC), no one has yet to mention, YOU WILL HAVE TO GET A LONGER DRIVESHAFT

like previously posted, install your lift & get an alignment done, then drive around & see how bad your vibes are & take angle measurements to then decide whats the best course of action

 

The TC drop, and SYC won't be enough? You think I would need a longer driveshaft as well?

 

when installing a SYE, you need a longer/custom driveshaft

 

Doesn't the SYE add 4" (more or less) to the back of the TC? Wouldn't that mean you need a shorter drive shaft?

 

I know to install a CV drive shaft requires a SYE, but I didn't know it worked the other way.
I read somewhere that the longer drive shaft is only required if your jeep comes with a certain 13" drive shaft to begin with. I know the Tj's and Yj's have that short of a shaft but I didn't think the Xj's did. I haven't measured it but it is longer than 13, I know that much. Could that be the case in which I would require a longer shaft?