cross member bolts for t case drop help
#1
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Year: 1987/1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
cross member bolts for t case drop help
So I got myself a T-case drop kit and it came with the block spacer and four longer bolts with washers and lock washers. So I looked under my Jeep to study my job before I tackle it and I found that I have on each side, one bolt going into the frame (No problem, I got the longer bolts) and one stud coming OUT from the frame with a nut on it! So now I'm wondering, I got 4 new bolts but I have 2 studs IN the frame. My question is, are these two just double sided threaded bolts where I can just unscrew them out of the frame (like some of the manifold bolts) or am I in a jam with this? My Jeep is an 87 model if it helps
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can unscrew them from the unibody either double nut method or a stud remover. When I did the double nut method I ended breaking the weld nut inside the unibody on the driverside. Easy fix there is a drain plug right above it. Now the passenger side... I had to make my own hole, since the stud is about 2inch back from the drain plug
#3
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
I did mine yesterday and did the double nut technique, it worked great for me but i thought about trying vise grips idk if it will work but its a shot! Goodluck
#4
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Year: 1987/1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
Alright sorry if I sound rookie right now but, I'm guessing I would have to use an open wrench to do the double nut technique right?
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
just take the two nuts off from the other sides then screw the first one on and make it tight then take the second one put it under it and make it tight then take a open wrench and unscrew the top one or first one you put on, thats how i did mine if that makes sense
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your stud removal method is going to depend on how rusty the studs and frame threads are. My Chicago '99 required that I soak the studs for a few days with penetrating oil and use a pipe wrench on the studs. In spite of being pretty rusty, they came out OK.
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#8
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Year: 1987/1989
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Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
Stud removal was a breeze! I was surprised actually. No torching, no PB Blaster or any grease or lube, just used the two stud method and it started to come out pretty easily. So now, I got all four new longer bolts bolted up with the spacer and it's all good now. Thanks for the advice
#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All you guys that didnt have any problems removing them need to thank the Jeep gods. Mine were just a pain in the ***. I had to drill one of them out and then install a helicoil because the stud was rusted into the hole and damaged the threads. The other just took a lot of patience, cussing, and elbow grease.
GOOD LUCK!
GOOD LUCK!
#11
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: '98 HO 4.0
I love that I got my '89 from the south, no rust!
Went to install my TC drop kit and the supplied bolts were a larger diameter than the studs that were original. I am not about to drill out my body and re-tap the existing nuts. Just wondering if this happened to anyone else? I purchased it off eBay, they said it would fit an XJ, oh well. Anybody wanna buy it from me?
Went to install my TC drop kit and the supplied bolts were a larger diameter than the studs that were original. I am not about to drill out my body and re-tap the existing nuts. Just wondering if this happened to anyone else? I purchased it off eBay, they said it would fit an XJ, oh well. Anybody wanna buy it from me?
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