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Crank no start.

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Old 01-02-2019, 05:07 PM
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Default Crank no start.

99 Jeep XJ 4 door 12” lift 38s. Snorkel. Long arms Superchips programmed.

The list goes on. The problem I am having. I decided to completely water seal everything after I took it swimming. 😹. Skim activated after the dash was submerged in the pond and shut off. About a week of playing around and cleaning wires I had it running and driving again so I decided to go ahead and lay the interior dynomat so the entire dash and all came out after that I went ahead and inspected all interior wiring and electric grease alll connections I went ahead and reinstalled everything but the seats and carpet. I go ahead and try to start ( A+ charged 100% slow charge for 2 days) redtop battery. All fuses are good.
Turn the key on I have a couple dash lights No gauges no fuel pump prime but the fuel gets a prime the relay primes the fuel rail so that is good. On to the next one. No spark. Coil reading to the plug but no output. Just ordered a new cps. The code reader slot powers on the reader but does not read the codes. Spray starter fluid and does not start. Stumped 🤔

any sugustions.
How do you know when the computer takes a ****.
Old 01-04-2019, 08:27 PM
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Ok so someone correct me if I'm wrong here. Call me out or something. Here goes.

The RELAY does nothing except tell the fuel pump to turn on and prime the fuel rail. You may have pressure, but if your fuel pump isn't priming, the system isn't receiving a prime. Test this with two people. Depress the valve at the end of your fuel rail, it's gonna squirt out a tiny bit of gas. When you turn the ignition to on, it will squirt out more. If it does, your fuel pump is indeed priming.

This is what I think may be your issue. I think you should check your ignition switch plug. See if there is a good connection, no corrosion, all connections are tight. Give those two test a chance and let us know
Old 01-07-2019, 11:03 PM
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When mine wouldn't start after a good engine bay cleaning and getting quite a bit of water everywhere, I pulled every connector and greased and dried them. Turned out I checked the ASD or ADS?? relay but not the 25 amp fuse in the passenger foot well. Cost me two days of checking everything, left my ecu in front of the heater for a whole day and changed the crank position sensor but in the end it was just the fuse and getting to know my new to me jeep for a whole weekend in the engine bay lol
Old 01-14-2019, 04:07 PM
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Default Update.

Ordered a new crank sens. All fuses and relays are good the Jeep is now on my trailer and I’m going higher on the lift. I also changed the gauge cluster and pulled an ignition switch. Have Not had the chance to do the switch yet. Everything else is 100.

I can still not communicate with the computer through the diagnostics port. Has power to and from.

I changed the guage cluster and the and the same thing. No gauges work lights work but not the mileage this cluster shows the security key goes off then back on.

Ill try and get to the key switch tonight but it might be around 9pm working out of town.

I found a place to get the skim deleted and I need to go ahead and get that taken care of.

What are the solid silver fuses for on the kickpanel box ??
Old 01-15-2019, 12:17 AM
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my jeep shut off the other night when I came to a stop. wouldnt start back up for 30 minutes. no spark. finally started back up randomly. knockin my head on this too
Old 01-15-2019, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Brett Hiltz
my jeep shut off the other night when I came to a stop. wouldnt start back up for 30 minutes. no spark. finally started back up randomly. knockin my head on this too

did the security light come on ?
If not might be time to check ignition parts and ff
Old 01-15-2019, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 99xj12x38



did the security light come on ?
If not might be time to check ignition parts and ff
no the security light didn’t come on. Had fuel pressure just no spark.
Old 01-16-2019, 07:19 AM
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No gauges and no communication from the ALDL (assembly line data link) port for diagnostics and the dash was removed. First step is to go back and recheck all wiring under the dash. I am guessing something is loose or left disconnected.

Cranks/no start but has fuel pressure and no spark. you have replaced the crank position sensor and still does not start. The car went for a swim. Check the cam position sensor/hall effect switch/ coil pick-up sensor, ( it is the plastic disc piece in the distributor below the rotor button) if it has failed it will not trigger the coil to fire. and the car will crank but not start
Old 01-31-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by odie64
No gauges and no communication from the ALDL (assembly line data link) port for diagnostics and the dash was removed. First step is to go back and recheck all wiring under the dash. I am guessing something is loose or left disconnected.

Cranks/no start but has fuel pressure and no spark. you have replaced the crank position sensor and still does not start. The car went for a swim. Check the cam position sensor/hall effect switch/ coil pick-up sensor, ( it is the plastic disc piece in the distributor below the rotor button) if it has failed it will not trigger the coil to fire. and the car will crank but not start

pickup coil oil had an open circuit I’m guessing. Replaced with new. Something is not triggering the asd relay. Manually push the asd and it sends 12v to injectors fuel and coil. No coil output. And still no start. Getting another CPA’s today and a coil just to check if I got a bad part. Still no gauges and still no initial fuel prime associated with the asd relay. The headlight switch does not work properly I’m guessing because I don’t get any illumination lights with the lights on or off.
Old 02-12-2019, 05:28 AM
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Default Finally we have a start and run by key




After tracing wires for 3 weeks externally we have a crank and start by key. It ended up being a asd relay communication problem. All wires had signal and finally after I waited for ever for a helper just for a couple minutes I ended up getting someone to hit the key for me while I was outside under the hood.

I ran 2 relays to signal the original asd relay because it will not send the power through the rite way. I now have it down to 1 relay triggering the asd relay And we are good. No matter what way I run the asd relay it will not function properly. Or drained the battery. The second relay is hooked up to the original computer ground signal and the output goes to the fuses and triggers the asd.

As as far as that. When I hooked the relays up that way I got working gauges and can again read the obd port. As far as now everything else works properly.

In in the end.............. it ended up being security and asd.

Thanks for everyone’s input
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