jakedasnake

Still learning things about my 96 jeep i just bought, was looking at getting a sye and new drive line for the rear but started reading and looking around and think it already might have one on it. I am reading around and trying to figure out some of the weak points and trying to find out what to upgrade to make it a trail worthy rig. Can you guys tell me if i have a sye? The other thing when i was down crawling underneath my rig i saw that the front output was leaking of the transfer case, can anyone tell me what this could be?
thanks guys

hankthetank

Yeah! You got a sye. And Yes it looks like you got a tired old output seal.

Welcome!

salad

Looks like an Advanced Adapters SYE to me - nice score! Big hint is that double-cardan CV-Style driveshaft.

jakedasnake

How hard is it to change that output seal? What should be the next thing i should move to look into for strength and performance?

salad

Doesn't look that bad - I have yet to rebuild my NP231 but I'll be using this video as a reference:
Strength and performance-wise it depends on what you want to do with your XJ first. If you're going to go wheeling I'd look at that rear axle. What kind of tires are on it? I also notice your cat looks pretty rust. Intake/Exhaust upgrades are a pretty cheap and easy way to get some more performance out of a 4.0.

jakedasnake

Yeah im looking at wheeling, yeah i have read the rear axels are the weak points in the xj, what would you suggest upgrading in it? It has 33s on it and this week im am putting 33x12.50x15 km2s.

salad

Which rear axle do you have? If it's a Chrysler 8.25 (pre-97 has the 27-spline) or Dana 35 you'll want to swap that out with a newer 29-spline C8.25 or D44 if you can find one.

jakedasnake

Unfortunately it looks like i have the Dana 35 in the the rear, and dana 30 in the front.

TheJerm

Replacing the seal isnt bad but you need a puller to get the yoke off, then just pry off and tap a new seal in.

For the axle, run it till you find a deal on a 8.25 then if it ever breaks or you feel abitious then swap it. I run a locked 27-spline 8.25 on 33's, 35's before, and not worried about breaking it

CharlesS

Replacing the output shaft seal isn't difficult...
To remove the nut holding the yoke in place you should put the transfercase in 4LO, chock the wheels and have the emergency brake engaged to keep the yoke from spinning freely or borrow a spanner type wrench to hold the yoke in place while trying to loosen the nut.
Once the nut is removed you can remove the yoke with a small wheel puller.
Using a seal puller you can work your way around the circumference of the seal to remove it or using a flat blade to lift the lip on the edge of the seal; you can work your way around the circumference to remove the seal from the output shaft housing recessed area.
To press in the new one you can use the preferred method of using a seal inserting tool or gently tap on the seal edge with a small ball pean hammer until the seal is fully seated being careful not to deform or damage the seal.
Before reinstalling the yoke; make sure to wipe the sealing surface of the yoke and apply a very small amount of RTV to the output shaft splines to stop gearlube seapage....
Once the yoke is reinstalled you will need to retorque the nut.
You will need to verify how much to torque the nut, but I believe it is around 80 lbs/ft. This can be verified from a factory service manual or local reputable shop.

salad

80? Generally it's 100+

jakedasnake

Ok so the way you are saying to do this is without even removing the transfer case from the vehicle correct?

Michael-XJ87

Yes that's correct.