I'm pretty sure mine is a RE. Based on the silver color... came off another jeep, so I'm not entirely sure. But the adjustment is the joint side that goes to the bracket. Which I would have had to drill out because the stock one tapered. But the donor jeep was already done, so we just pulled the bracket and swapped them. The side on the axle had no adjustment. But I also didn't have a sleeve for it. Found another one that had thinner side walls. Put it in and it had play with the bolt that fit the bolt holes on the axle. Drove it. Definitely felt it. So I just drilled out the axle mounting plate, front and back and put a bigger bolt in. Tightened up. No more wobble up front. Then again, its not a street vehicle.. and that is with fixed control arms. Once again I assume RE because of the paint. With superflex bushing in the lowers that are completely wasted. Felt the thuds from them... but no wobble. And also without a front sway bar. Or rear. At about 40-50 MPH. So it either the trackbar play... or as those stifles stated, worn out comments that just seem to function well together

 

my ? is can this be flipped for possibly a better line up, in the directions this is the way they said to mount it up

 

 

went over everything again tight and no movement in the steering box or track bar. so next step I guess would be throw in some bushings and go from there

 

I'd skip the poly bushing and use rubber instead for your control arms.

 

The poly bushings will tranfer even more harshness right into the chassis because of the steep control arm angle you have with a 4.5" lift.

 

well why trying to clean my NSS (crumbled in my hand) I was playing with my control arms and noticed the passenger side bottom end, I can move it sideways on the bushing so thats not a good sign.

 

Spend a day walking trough the local self serve auto recyclers in your area and you just might get lucky and find rig with long arms on it.

 

On your track bar the angle is bolt to bolt the bends don't affect the angle use some blue tape bolt to bolt at the track bar and to highlight the drag link

 

ok so looks pretty good to me im always looking at the angle of the bar and saying it doesnt look str8

 

all the difference in the world amazon.com best prices

 

Drivekine geometry looks pretty close. If you installed a drop pitman, and a drop bracket, you should be good. Looks really close to me. Just spend the money. Get the arms. Don't have to be adjustable, in my opinion an least. Your only at 4.5 lift. By dropping the pitman arm and a drop bracket for the trackbar... your better off than most. I really personally don't think you need to spend the additional money for adjustable. But to each there own. Just find yourself a set of uppers and lowers. Bolt them in. Good luck. Ha. And then get it up on a trailer, or limp it to an alignment shop and have them align the front end. No need to spend the money for a 4little wheel alignment. Just the front. If you do a decent amount of off-road riding... tell them to kick the toe out. It will feel funny on the road, but will be amazing off road. When they normally do.it, the right tire is towed in. Tell them to do the.opposite. good luck.

 

Gonna start them today ? I have is can I do the the control arms without lifting the truck off the ground. My plan is one at a time and hopefully it will slide right back in. My thought is if I lift it when I take one out the rear will move. I went with the poly always been fan in all my cars never had a problem with it.

 

You bought new bushings for the stock control arms? Or you bought new control arms with poly bushings?

 

New poly bushings in aftermarket control arms