Looks much better.

I need to detail my interior.

 

theres this thing.... its called a build thread.... i'm still waiting on the cherry i like cherries

 

I would love to be able to oblige, money is the biggest limfac right now, for example this is the outer ring of the harmonic balancer for my engine

and this is the inner hub,

fortunately I was only going about 20 mph when they decided to separate with a loud clang late last night.

I would love to install my lift, but between work and waiting for the next paycheck for the last few parts (like the correct coils)

 

Hmm sounds like we're in the same boat. Building jeeps paycheck to paycheck

 

My biggest problem is that I am super dang impatient, I have to keep reminding my self that I only bought my jeep just last month. The thing is that I have everything for my lift minus the shocks, except that I have the wrong springs, however I can still return both sets and get my money back, clean slate.

 

What about going with the 4.5" RE leaf springs, I am having second thoughts about 137/257lbs rear spring rate, whereas if I keep the RE coils which are 185lbs/in and got the RE leafs the rear would be at 190lbs and they are the exact springs which come with the kit in the first place, so much for cherry picking.

RE9920 Long Arm Crossmember Kit $273.79
RE4010 Front Lower X-Duty Control Arm $183.24
RE4000 Front Lower X-Duty Control Arm $183.24
RE4020 Front Upper X-Duty Control Arm $164.96
RE1462 4.5" Leaf Spring for Jeep XJ $142.70
RE9922 Control Arm Mount for Jeep XJ $136.94
RE1660 Track Bar $117.02
RE1141 4.5" - 5.5" Gen2 Disconnect $88.95
RE1345 5.5" Coil springs $88.00
RE2700 5" Rear Shackle for Jeep XJ $77.94
RE1670 Track Bar Bracket Brace $59.89
RE2500 Pitman Arm for Jeep YJ/TJ/XJ $56.31
RE1665 Track Bar Bracket for HD XJ/ZJ $52.37
RE2421 Rear U-Bolt Kit $38.72
RE9921 Sway Bar Relocation Bracket $30.26
RAYBESTOS BH38895 Hydraulic Hose $11.86
RAYBESTOS 38894 Hydraulic Hose $14.84
RAYBESTOS BH38894 Hydraulic Hose $11.86
MOOG Part #*SB371*REAR FRONT (pair) $21.98
MOOG Part #*SB372*Rear Rear (pair) $17.98

Total cost: $1773

 

If on the other hand I stick with the softer OME/Rusty combo, the question becomes whether or not the softer rate is worth the extra $262, which is very near what a set of Bilstein 5150s cost.

ARB CS035RA (3" HD) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm free height Old Man Emu/Dakar Leaf Spring ($97.85 ea) $195.70 + 45.50 sh = $241.20 $241.20
Rubicon Express RE1270 2" Lift Block* $47.99
RE2700 5" Rear Shackle for Jeep XJ $77.94
Rusty's 4.5" coils $168.00
2" spacer $36.00
Total cost: $571

RE1345 5.5" Coil springs $88.00
RE1462 4.5" Leaf Spring for Jeep XJ $142.70
RE2700 5" Rear Shackle for Jeep XJ $77.94
Total cost: $309

 

OME 930 XJ coil 160 lbs/inch
OME 934 ZJ coil 180 lbs/inch

ARB CS035RA 137/257lbs/in

Are these OME springs (the 934s in particular) incompatible with my leaf spring?

Also what about throwing in a set of OME-D22XL AAL's? I could send the blocks back and order some boomerang shackles.

My point being is that I have everything I need to lift my XJ right now, plus the OME coils, the 934s in particular, have virtually the same spring rate as the RE 5.5s

 

Looking forward to this thread, great work so far man

 

Visions of things to come

It almost even looks believable, I flipped all the tires black sidewall out, installed 7oz of bb's in each and I will be painting the rims black.

 

For me the instruction manual for this kit http://www.rubiconexpress.com/aux_in...0.pdf&line=R/E leave a lot to be desired, for what it's worth this is my attempt to improve upon them. Also there is a good write up on installing the Rubicon Express RE6300 Extreme Duty Long Arm Suspension Kit on the NAXJA forum. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1042303

The factory crossmember, also note the pinch weld just above the frame just below the break lines, thats where I will be drilling the 5 5/16 holes for the left control arm mount.


A. "First, support transmission/transfer case and remove factory crossmember (and skid plate if there). Loosely bolt transmission adapter plate to transmission mount so fitment can be checked with new crossmember in position. The adapter should be positioned with the eight-hole surface up and off set to one side just like the factory crossmember holes."


C. "Generally align the center slots of the crossmember over the center slots of the left and right control arm mounts and loosely bolt them together (through the four large counter sunk holes in the crossmember into the PEM nuts of the control arm mounts) with the four supplied 1/2” flat head bolts."


So what is a "PEM" nut?
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...tener_new.html



So far pretty straightforward stuff and this is the point where I am at but the following step, step D. says to place the nut plate on top of the pinch weld and align it with the holes in the control arm mounts. I understand what the instructions say, but why is the nut plate even needed at this point?

 

I am simply going to mount up the crossmember/control arm mount assembly and bolt it to the transmission mount, get everything aligned and tighten down the 10mm crossmember bolts and then drill through the two forward most bolt holes and install two bolts with nuts in each control arm mount and then drop the crossmember and secure the control arm mounts with the 10mm flat head bolts and then drill the other three holes into the pinch weld. I will take plenty of pictures as I am doing this and post them.

 

Well I'm about 3/4 of the finished with the crossmember installation, I have 5 5/16s holes drilled with bolts installed and the two 3/8s holes drilled on the right control arm mount and I have 3 5/16s holes drilled on the left. So far so good, I'll finish it up tomorrow.

 

I have all 10 5/16s bolts installed, my method of securing the control arm mounts with the first 2 5/16ths bolts went as planned now but there is a 3/16ths gap at the rear of both control arm mounts where the 2 3/8ths flat head bolts are located because the frame doubler ends right at the first 3/8ths flat head bolt location. Anyone have any ideas regarding this? if this is an issue or not.

 

Oh and another thing, the word for the day is "Titanium"

as in drill bits, rather drill bit, because it just keeps on drilling holes that is