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Cherry picked 3.5" lift

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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #31  
ta2tony's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by OnlyinaXJ
Ok so here's my Rough Country long arm upgrade build, let me know what you think

5.5” lift
Rubicon Express RE1665 Track Bar Bracket for HD XJ/ZJ by Rubicon Express $52.37
Rubicon Express RE1660 Track Bar for Jeep XJ/ZJ by Rubicon Express $117.02
Rubicon Express RE1670 Track Bar Bracket Brace by Rubicon Express $59.89
Rubicon Express RE1345 5.5" Coil Spring for Jeep XJ $87 + free sh
RE total: $317
ARB CS035RA (3" HD) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm free height Old Man Emu/Dakar Leaf Spring ($125.69 ea) $250 + free shipping
ARB total: $250
XJ front shock
5.0 - 6.0” LIFT PN BIL24-185943.16.97" - 28.44" Travel Length: 11.47" $85.97 x 2 = $172
XJ rear shock
5.0 - 6.0” LIFT PN BIL33-151663. 15.91" - 25.93" Travel Length: 10.02" $75.69 x 2 = $152
Bilstein Total: $324
Rough Country 689U Jeep Cherokee XJ Long Arm Upgrade Kit $649.95 + $54 = $704
EXTREME DUTY ADJUSTABLE REAR LIFT SHACKLES. 1.75" to 3.5." lift $145.50
Suspension total: $1740
A couple things stick out to me. Your are going to have a very soft rear leaf spring and a very stiff front coil going with OME and RE. I recommended Rusty's because their coil spring rate is very similar to stock. RE coils are very stiff, made for a lot of weight in the front end. They're a quality product, but if you are concerned enough about ride to get the soft HD OME leafs, I'd suggest getting a lighter sprung coil. Rusty's or IRO.

As for the Rough Country long arms...search for reviews. Almost weekly people are posting on here about the bushings in their RC arms going bad after a few hundred miles or a few months. What extra you spend on your LA setup you wil save later in replaced bushings. I recommed looking at Rusty's longarm setup (both radius arm and 4-link), Serious Offroad's radius arm, or leadfoots designs (FST).

Lastly, for all your spending on the trackbar, bracket, and brace, you might just consider the IRO double sheer unit.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #32  
Letterman52's Avatar
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Subscribed.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #33  
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From: Alamogordo NM
Year: 1988
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A few questions about a SYE which is compatible with a front drive shaft, I found a thread here, 4.3 L XJ says that a hack and tap is the only way?

I also want to do a master rebuild so any advice here would be great.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #34  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by OnlyinaXJ
A few questions about a SYE which is compatible with a front drive shaft, I found a thread here, 4.3 L XJ says that a hack and tap is the only way?

I also want to do a master rebuild so any advice here would be great.
What transfer case do you have? SYE install is easy. Rebuilds are also easy.

You can use a front driveshaft from certain years and drivetrain packages depending on what driveline you have.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #35  
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From: Alamogordo NM
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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5.5” lift ordered from Amazon
Rubicon Express RE1665 Track Bar Bracket for HD XJ/ZJ by Rubicon Express $52.37
Rubicon Express RE1660 Track Bar for Jeep XJ/ZJ by Rubicon Express $117.02
Rubicon Express RE1670 Track Bar Bracket Brace by Rubicon Express $59.89
Total: $229
Rubicon Express RE9920 Long Arm Crossmember Kit for Jeep XJ $274
Rubicon Express RE4020 Extreme-Duty Control Arm $165
Rubicon Express RE4000 drivers side Front Lower X-Duty Control Arm $183
Rubicon Express RE4010 Front Lower X-Duty Control Arm $183
Total: $622
Rubicon Express RE1383 3" Front Lower Bump Stop $28 x 2 = $56
Rubicon Express RE2500 Pitman Arm for Jeep YJ/TJ/XJ $56
Rubicon Express RE9921 Sway Bar Relocation Bracket $30
Rubicon Express RE1141 2"-3.5" Gen2 Disconnect $89
Total: $231
RE grand total: $1082

ARB CS035RA (3" HD) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm free height Old Man Emu/Dakar Leaf Spring ($125.69 ea) $250 + free shipping
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/o...79/index5.html

Rusty's Coils - XJ 4.5" Front $129 + $39 sh = $168
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
EXTREME DUTY ADJUSTABLE REAR LIFT SHACKLES. 1.75" to 3.5." lift $145.50
http://www.rockauto.com/
MOOG Part # SB371 REAR FRONT $9.22 x 2 = $18
MOOG Part # SB372 Rear Rear $16.52 x 2 = $33
1995 JEEP WRANGLER 4.0L L6 Brake/Wheel Hub : Hydraulic Hose Related Parts
WAGNER Part # BH123814 {#F123814} Rear $6.38
Front Brake Hose; w/o ABS - LEFT; SE Model $10.73
Front Brake Hose; w/o ABS - RIGHT; SE Model $10.73
Total: $391
Lift grand total: $1723

XJ front shock
5.0 - 6.0” LIFT PN BIL24-185943 16.97" - 28.44" Travel Length: 11.47" $85.97 x 2 = $172
XJ rear shock
5.0 - 6.0” LIFT PN BIL33-151663 15.91" - 25.93" Travel Length: 10.02" $75.69 x 2 = $152
Bilstein Total: $324

Wheel, Soft 8, Steel, Black, 15 in. x 8 in., 5 x 4.5 in. Bolt Circle, 4 in. Backspace
CRR-3975812 $58 x 5 = $291 + $13sh = $304
BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM2 Off-Road Tire - 33/1050R15 $213 x 5 = $1065
Total: $1369

EXTREME DUTY MONSTER MOTOR MOUNTS $99.50
XJ Standard Rockrails $215 http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/home.php
Total: $315
Shocks, tires, wheels, armor, mounts total: $2008
Grand Total = Lift: $1,723 + Tires: $2,008, 1988 XJ: $1,250
Total project cost: $4981

Thanks for all of the advice Tony and everyone else here! I think I have a winner this time

Another shot of the Sacramento mountains
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1988
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Engine: 4.0
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Looks like I'll get to have Privette Custom Fabrication install the RE crossmember as it requires welding.

Other odds and ends to this project will be re-gearing the axles, 4.10s ought to do nicely with 33s, as well as an ARB air locker in the rear, not sure about the front, I'm thinking that I'll just leave it open as this thing is shaping up to be a crazy flex monster. I'll just have to learn how to install diff gears
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:25 PM
  #37  
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From: California
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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Typically guys running 4.56 gears with 33's since I guess going from 3.55 stock to 4.10 doesn't feel like a big difference. I have 4.10s now on 32's and it seems fine. I've never driven anything else before so I have nothing to compare to, just do lot's of research before you pick the gear ratios!
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 04:19 AM
  #38  
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From: Alamogordo NM
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Okay its time for an update on my project,

First, I work too much, but I need the money to be able to fix up my jeep, of course the reverse is also in effect, if I didn't work I would have plenty o time to work on my jeep but no money for the build.


I have twice now filled up a small grocery bag sized trash can full of this tar like dirt and oil muck off of the engine and engine compartment, I still have a ways to go but things are finally starting to shape up with regards to the health of my xj.


These shiny accessory brackets used to be encased in tar, I am just a tad OCD, I have no problem getting my Jeep dirty, however, I also want to be able to wash off the crud without resorting to using gasoline and a scraper.


New fel-pro valve cover gasket under a clean valve cover and new motor mounts.


and heres most of my Rubicon Express long arm lift,

but apparently I wasn't paying close enough attention to the parts list for the lift because after everything I had ordered had arrived, I was still missing the main crossmember piece which actually supports the transmission (RE9922), funny how RE9920 has a lovely picture of the whole crossmember kit, including the transmission mount, at least the missing piece wasn't too expensive.

Last edited by OnlyinaXJ; Apr 27, 2013 at 04:44 AM.
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 05:14 AM
  #39  
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From: Alamogordo NM
Year: 1988
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OLD MAN EMU-CS035RA (OMEJC2A) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm (9.25") free height

I am really interested to see how these springs ride/flex, seems to me like the overload spring might sacrifice some up travel, but it will also act as a sort of progressive bump stop I would think.


Those threads are 4 1/4" long and 1 1/4" in diameter.


Now that is one seriously freaking huge ball joint, and the control arm is bigger around than my wrist and is about 3.5' in length.



The RE uppers look like they could be pretty beefy lowers lol


And here's a shot of the track bar bracket, bracket brace, and the trackbar.


I'll be taking lots and lots of pictures throughout my build, I have not been able to find very many decent quality pictures of this lift being installed out there so I'll just have to fix that myself.

Last edited by OnlyinaXJ; Apr 27, 2013 at 05:18 AM.
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 06:14 AM
  #40  
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Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
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Damn dude looking good!
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #41  
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Year: 1996
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What coils did you end up going with?
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 10:57 AM
  #42  
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I'm going with Rusty's 4.5" coils and probably a .5" spacer for 5 inches of lift total in the front and I'll bump up the rear with Ironman 4x4 Fab's shackle relocation brackets for a total of 4.5 in the rear. I don't have a SYE yet, I am hoping that the extended tail cone on my NP231 keep the vibes under control, if not then that will be the next issue I address, but I have to get her put back together before any lift happens anyway, hopefully I'll have the lift installed within the next two weeks.
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by OnlyinaXJ
I'm going with Rusty's 4.5" coils and probably a .5" spacer for 5 inches of lift total in the front and I'll bump up the rear with Ironman 4x4 Fab's shackle relocation brackets for a total of 4.5 in the rear. I don't have a SYE yet, I am hoping that the extended tail cone on my NP231 keep the vibes under control, if not then that will be the next issue I address, but I have to get her put back together before any lift happens anyway, hopefully I'll have the lift installed within the next two weeks.
Well thought out. The leafs and coils should ride well together. Also, lifting .5" more in the front is the way to go! I look forward to seeing your progress.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ta2tony
Well thought out. The leafs and coils should ride well together. Also, lifting .5" more in the front is the way to go! I look forward to seeing your progress.
Thanks for all of your input Tony on my build, I just found a 10,000 count jar of airsoft BBs on Amazon for $20, brilliant idea, I'll never run out of balancing beads lol.

You also mentioned using brake lines from a 95 Wrangler earlier when I was talking about a 3.5" lift, what about now with 6 inches of lift?

I was also thinking about going with the JK shocks for now with some of Detours shock cheaters if needed to adjust their length.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by OnlyinaXJ
Thanks for all of your input Tony on my build, I just found a 10,000 count jar of airsoft BBs on Amazon for $20, brilliant idea, I'll never run out of balancing beads lol.

You also mentioned using brake lines from a 95 Wrangler earlier when I was talking about a 3.5" lift, what about now with 6 inches of lift?

I was also thinking about going with the JK shocks for now with some of Detours shock cheaters if needed to adjust their length.
Just make sure the bb's are the heavy weight ones, at least .2 grams each. The ones I got were .25 grams I believe...

Hmm. I think you can modify brake line from a mid-90's chevy 1/2 ton truck for that much lift up front. The 96 v8 4wd Dakota might be long enough in back. Do some searching on here for them and see what people say.

I know at full flex on stock arms my stock front brake lines didn't come close to being tight, the wrangler lines are about 3-4" longer. They might work if you also relocate the hard line down as far as possible. The stock rear brake line was tight as heck, I used the Dakota line and its got all the room I need for flex at 4-5" of lift in back.

The fronts you'll have to keep an eye on, once you long arm it that axle will droop like crazy.

As for the shocks I'm not real knowledged on them, but they seem awful short for 6" lift. If you need something temporary, get some cheapo white body's (like $25 each) at the correct length. IMO that'd be better than nicer shocks that are too short.
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