Seasoned Member
Seems like most alignment shops dont know how to properly align lifted trucks. They always try to go by factory specs. No bueno. Most places ive seen they set the toe and send you on your way without paying any attention to caster. They just dont want to deal with modifications, take your $ and get you out the door.
CF Veteran
alignments are a losing gig... at $69 they rush to get it done under an hour... a proper alignment on a lifted truck would take longer than that I would think.
CF Veteran
Quote:
I'm the opposite, I'll pay for them to do it right!Originally Posted by spaz_22
the sad part is that most people with lifted rigs only want to pay that 69 dollars, or they'll try and find a place that will do it cheaper.
Spent hours under it the other day and the only thing I can get a little movement out of is the lower control arms, maybe a 1/4" twisting it back and forth from a soft bushing, nothing slopping around thou. had the wheels balanced twice since I got them a month ago. I can say that I don't think the TB and drag link are parallel. Also when I put the 2" lift on I replaced the sway bar links with new stock ones and after driving it the first time I noticed the top of the link bent back towards the coil spring, and thoughts as to why?
Quote:
Control arm bushings
Tie rod ends
Track bar
Steering box & bolts
Check wheel bearing and ball joints
Have your tires been balanced?
Look at sway bar bushings and end links
While your under there as well. I would also make sure your front drive shaft is balanced and your rotors aren't warped.
You want to eliminate any possibility of driveline vibes so your not confusing them with your death wobble.
Originally Posted by evan00xj
Rest easy my friend you're gonna be fine. Your caster is NOT adjustable. A jeep wrangler TJ with the Low pinion D30 does have caster adjustment via alignment cam bolts. Im attaching a picture to show what that looks like. Your xj should not have caster adjustment. Now for your track bar. You dont need a drop brack at a 2" lift. BDS makes an adjustable track bar for a 2"-4" lift that retains the factory track bar bracket. Remember you want the drag link and TB to be parallel. You need to get under there while you have a buddy turning the wheel back n forth and look for worn parts.Control arm bushings
Tie rod ends
Track bar
Steering box & bolts
Check wheel bearing and ball joints
Have your tires been balanced?
Look at sway bar bushings and end links
While your under there as well. I would also make sure your front drive shaft is balanced and your rotors aren't warped.
You want to eliminate any possibility of driveline vibes so your not confusing them with your death wobble.
Newbie
I had the DeathWobble bad. Any little hole at speeds over 45mph gave me heart attack.
I replaced the track bar. Still wobbling.
Replaced tie rod ends (dunno why, but had some) Still wobbling.
Upper and lower bearings, proper alignment done right, re-tighten everything. Solved.
With my luck, it's always the most expensive parts that need to be fixed.
I replaced the track bar. Still wobbling.
Replaced tie rod ends (dunno why, but had some) Still wobbling.
Upper and lower bearings, proper alignment done right, re-tighten everything. Solved.
With my luck, it's always the most expensive parts that need to be fixed.

Also at any speed when I hit a bump ( I live in pa so there's a lot ) it feels like my suspension kinda bounces around oddly, not just up into the shocks normally. Bad explanation but best way I can put it.
Ok guys, the only thing that I can find is that possibly the upper control arm bushings, so I took a video clip........... Are they bad?
Thanks
QUOTE=mr white;2520447]It doesn't appear to take much effort to wobble them around. Looks like they gave up.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=mr white;2520447]It doesn't appear to take much effort to wobble them around. Looks like they gave up.[/QUOTE]
Member
I had serious death wobble in my '95 Cherokee, which has a 2" lift and 31x10.50-15 tires (at present) on 15x8 rims with 6" backspacing (stock rims are backspaced 5".) Replaced tie-rod ends, sway bar bushings, track bar and upper and lower control arm bushings. End of problem. Maybe the situation could have been fixed with just one or two of those changes, but I didn't want to have to go back in over and over.
I'm going up to 33x12.50-15 Firestone Destination M/T tires sometime this coming week. Hopefully, they won't require too much fender trimming, but I'm prepared to eliminate all the "crimps" around the front fender wells and to cut-and-bend up to the pinch seam on the rear.
I'm going up to 33x12.50-15 Firestone Destination M/T tires sometime this coming week. Hopefully, they won't require too much fender trimming, but I'm prepared to eliminate all the "crimps" around the front fender wells and to cut-and-bend up to the pinch seam on the rear.