SteveMongr

First major problem with 1996 XJ today.
CEL #27 "Fuel Injector Control Circuit / Will Need Special Diagnostics"

Here is what happened. Drove 5 miles and parked, left idling for 2 minutes. Upon leaving, putting it in gear it died.
Tried to restart, no go. Triple primed the fuel pump, no start, just cranks.
Floored accelerator and managed to get it running roughly after a few tries. Idled high for a moment then evened out and seemed OK.

Drove back home and it ran good.
Shut off jeep, tried to restart, no start, just crank.
After an hour I tried again, it fired right up.

The issue is not heat soak.
The injectors are aftermarket, 2 years old.
Where to from here?

Thank You..

EZEARL

Saw quite a few references to this post while searching about code 27.

"You can do a very quick check to determine whether the problem is in the injector or the harness, by running the engine, and unplugging the injector you suspect is bad. If it's a bad one, nothing will change. If it's a good one, the engine will briefly bog, then recover. Now swap the connector that tested bad with its nearest neighbor, start the engine again, and repeat the test. If the same plug is dead, it's the harness. If the same injector is dead, it's the injector.

Check voltage at the injector plug, and resistance of both positive and negative lines. This system switches the negative side, and positive is constant-on with ignition, supplied via a line with branching splices to each injector plug. The splices can go bad and give you low voltage at the injector. You should check resistance of the pos. line back to the connector at the coil, and the resistance of the neg. line back to the PCU.

Injector 1 goes to pin 16 on the PCU. #2 goes to pin 15, 3 to 14, 4 to 13, 5 to 38 and 6 to 58. The positive line to all injectors is dark green/orange, and traces back to the ASD relay, as well as one of the pins on the coil/distributor plug. With ignition on, engine off, you should get a full 12 volts between the hot terminal on the injector plug and ground. If it's a bad splice, it might start out relatively good when cold, and deteriorate as it heats up. If you have a bad wire or splice in the harness, it's not hard to slice it open and bypass the bad part."

SteveMongr

Thanks EZEARL.
Before I checked codes I pulled injector wires. One by one. Each made a subtle difference at idle. Problem with this test is, it runs good once it starts.

EZEARL

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-27.html