Not sure about where you are from but I live in Phoenix and we have pick and pulls and full service junk yards you can call them up they have an inventory of most stuff and they will remove it and have it ready for you cost a little more than the pick and pull but less than buying a new one.

 

Thanks for all the info AND jokes. I was only going 10 mph or less when both times the car in front of me was cut off and stopped short. My Jeep wont stop short. Been driving for 43 yrs. ,have six cars and trucks and never an accident. Only this dam jeep and both with in two weeks. Thanks guys . I'll try the booster and master first.

 

I just did a rear disk swap on my 8.25. I agree it's worth doing because working on drums is a PITA and require a lot more attention to keep adjusted.

Other things worth doing though, especially if never done, is to replace the rubber brake hoses and bleed the brakes really well.

Even after I did my disk swap, I wasn't happy because the times I drive my GF's Hyundai, that thing stops on a dime with a very light touch. So I kept obsessing on why my brakes seem so soft in comparison.

I finally bought a vacuum pump and really bled my brakes - went through three bottles of brake fluid before getting all of the tiny bubbles out. I changed over to speed bleeders to help since its just me.

Since I have a 5.5" lift, I bought rubber brake hoses for a 1995 GMC Sierra 1500 and they are a perfect fit - and much longer. With my lift, I'm sure the original hoses have been stretched to where they might be of questionable quality.

And also, it turns out me right front caliper is upside down and so it should be on the left wheel. That is important since the calipers can't be bled correctly if the bleeder valve is upside down. So I took my caliper off, vacuum bled it and put it back on. Turns out that fixed the slight pull to the left I've been feeling when braking.

Also, my brake fluid was brown, which is not good. Since its all been drained and refilled, it's clear again.

Between vacuum pump and hoses I spent about $70 and another $30 for fluid, but my brakes are almost exactly like brand new now. I mean, the rear disk swap was great, but paying attention to the little things can make a big difference.

Down the road, I'll put some slotted rotors and ceramic pads on.

 

Good job!!!
If you haven't replace the proportional valve spring, i suggest you do it....you will see a world of difference.
GL

 

I definitely need to do that! Thanks for the suggestion.

Oh - didn't mean to hijack OP's thread - I hope it didn't come off that way. Just was hoping to point out that maybe doing these other things might do the trick.

 

help me out here.....how does one do this and where do you get a new spring. I know what the prop valve is/does but obviously I don't know how they work

 

Get it from a ZJ (one with rear disc brake).
This should give you a little understanding.

GL.

 

Summitracing had a complete zj rear disk brake conversion. The only thing its missing is the E brake cables. I also replaced my factory front brakes with EBC black zinc rotors and EBC green brake pads made a world of difference. I pull a 12foot trailer sometimes full with split wood it's night and day.

 

I ordered a new 95 XJ Booster and master cyl. for my 94 XJ like many suggested. My question now is that the rod on the old 94 booster has a small curve where it hooks up to the brake pedal and the new booster is straight. The hole is the same size. Will this work? It dose hook up. If not can the rod from the old booster be swapped out with out damaging the new booster? Thanks
P.S. I know the fittings on the new master cyl. are metric and come in from the opposite side but I can have new lines made up.