Similar to my last post, I’m going to be checking out another xj tomorrow mostly as a parts rig. This one is lifted big, on 35’s. But current owner didn’t do it, and says they aren’t sure what was changed/upgraded by PO who did the work.
He says the axles are stock. So is there anything I can look for or measure from the outside to tell if any of the axle/drivetrain components have been modified?
Hoping they will let me lift the corner to check gearing also.
My list so far:
-rear axle type
- hp or lp front
- front u joint size
- abs
- gearing
​​​​​- t- case

My immediate needs are leaf springs, windshield, AC lines and tie rod tube. Any aftermarket or upgrade parts I can use would be great, but would also like to salvage as much as I can for spares, like fuel system parts, steering, ignition, etc.
It’s a 95 and mine is a 2001, so any of those systems or anything engine/trans-wise that may not be compatible that I could check for?

thanks!

 

It being a 95 it should have a hp d30 front axle and a C8.25 rear axle. Your 01 will have a low pinion front axle so that would be a good grab for you. Your 01 rear axle should be either the c8.25 again(but with the higher spline count axle shafts) or potentially a dana35. I don't recall how common either axle was in the rear in 01 vs the other. I do know they got the LP fronts because it was the end of the xj run so as they say they were utilizing the excess amounts of axles they had.

If it's still on factory gearing then 4.0 - auto - 3.55s and 4.0 - manual - 3.07s

Tcase again if factory will be the open style slip seal rear housing (less desireable) vs your 01's sealed output. The open style slip seal will leak tcase fluid if the rear dshaft is removed.

the trans (auto) is the same aw4, it's not compatible for your 01 though thanks to the harness plugs and also some techy stuff around the shift solenoids i believe.

as far as mods that could be super useful for yours or better left as just parts - I'd say is to be determined. Post pictures of the 95 and we can potentially steer you into the useful parts or potentially away from re-applying the less than desirable "upgrades"

 

I read up on transmission swaps just after I posted this so I knew the trans wouldn’t work, bummer. Was pleased to see the HP 30 though, I was thinking it would have LP for some reason. Yes I do have the 8.25, so that will be good for spare stock.
It’s got quite a few mods up front to accommodate for the lift. Looks like a Rustys HD track bar and mount kit, Rough Country HD LCA and drop kit, drag link drop?, the drag link looks heavier than my stock one as well but that might just be wishful thinking, and a brace/stabilizer that goes from the drag link mount across to the passenger frame rail. In the rear it’s got RC shocks (couldn’t tell in front, they’ve been undercoated over), lift shackles, and an add a leaf.
And am I correct in saying it’s got a SYE? And what I’m seeing referred to as a CV rear axle?

Disappointed to see the AC system looks quite a bit different, so I don’t know if any of that will work, along with the ignition system, this has a rotor, which mine does not.

 

Wait, so the axle shafts won’t swap? Crap.
is there anything else of value in a spare axle?Gearing? I haven’t dug into the axle parts yet, but
common sense would have a gear in the diff to accept the 27 spline axle. Could you just swap that gear with a 29? Or is the whole internal system different?

 

Thats a whole lot of rusty stuff under there...if you want a safe driveable jeep...its going to cost a lot. If your looking for parts...I would walk away at anything above 1000-1500

 

Another issue, i think the electronics on 96 and below all have round pin connectors, where 97 and up all have flat blade

 

Track bar is ideal setup, the 2 braces coming from the track bar mount and steering box to the unibody on the opposed side are helpful.

The massive drop pitman arm is not ideal IMO because its causing more leverage against the steering box/unibody.

yes that has a sye on the tcase. Whether it's an actual sye kit or just a hack-N-tap deal I'm not sure. Technically no it's not a cv style driveshaft - it's a double cardan style like your front drivehsaft.

steering looks like V8 grand cherokee steering to me which if it is, its better than your xjs stock setup but with the various bends in it - it's surely been abused.

Given the overall condition and compilation of parts to achieve the lift, I wouldnt really say built up - I'd say cobbled together. Just about all the cheater parts thrown into a jeep for a large lift. I wouldnt expect great ride quality out of this combination and I surely wouldn't expect a problem free end result for your 01 if you did soo.


The thing is Yes you could remove your 27 spline shafts, pull the diff cover, remove the center pin from your carrier and pop the spider gears out and then swap to the 29 spline shafts and spider gear setup BUT it's a bit of work to do for no reason at all other than to say "it's been upgraded".

sure hang onto the axle in the case of a blown R&P or otherwise catastrophic failure which unless you drive like an idiot on the trails or run the thing out of gear oil - isn't likely.

 

Great info, thanks. I made an offer, if he goes for it I’ll take it. Will be worth it for the few parts I need right now and the peace of mind of some spare. If not, now I won’t stew over it.

I wouldn’t even copy the lift. I don’t need 35’s for what I’ll be doing, and the potential for breaking something in the front axle or roasting my trans isn’t worth the “cool factor” of big azz tires.

 

Why on earth wouldnt the aw4 work. Toss a rads shifter in it and run it

I agree there's isnt much here other than bones the good internal stuff.

Engin trans tcase possibly axles.

 

Hm, just checked these out, interesting, thanks.

 

2 rocker switches, 1 toggle switch. 3 solenoid wires into switches. Now you are the shifter. Ez job 👌 C14 c15 c16 wires iirc

There are the 3 solonoid wires.You can do this at the connection to the t c u in your ride no going underneath.

 

Well I got it!
will be a while before I’m able to start swapping parts, but I’ve got a few questions before I start creating a plan.
I didn’t notice until I took it for a spin when I got it home, it has the 231 underneath, but the shifter has PT and FT 4wd, so I’m assuming it had the 242 originally. So what does that mean for the shifter positions? (I’m going to run it for a bit until I get time to do the swaps into my current rig)

Im eventually going to swap the HP front axle from my LP, so would make sense to just do all the front end swaps at once? Track bar, drag link, LCA, stabilizers etc. when I pull the axle, what am I looking for to check if the shafts have been changed?

And I think I’m going to copy the lift after all and run the 35’s, mostly because my current wheels rub. It’s strictly a trail rig. Is there an alternative to the drop Pittman arm that won’t put as much stress on the steering box?

I also want to swap the rear driveshaft and the SYE, but am I better off to just swap the entire TC? Or pull the sye and install in mine?

once I start pulling all that stuff I’m going to put the body on blocks and use it for welding for welding practice so I can fix up the weak area in my rear, and potentially do my own stiffeners/reinforcement.

The adventure begins!