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Can someone PLEASE explain the difference between Warn locking hubs, a locker, etc???

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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty

That was the way someone else described the full-time feature in another thread that made sense to me.
I did think about it after all the typing and there is some truth in that how it can make sense. It's just I want sure if someone who has no knowledge of the different items would make sense of it.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #32  
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Hi there people, i have a few questions to ask on this topic. i own a 94 xj and it has a D30F straight tube in it and I'm having issues with it not applying equal amounts of drive to both wheels,so for me to eliminate this issue is buy installing a locker,is that correct?
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by chefys95xj
Hi there people, i have a few questions to ask on this topic. i own a 94 xj and it has a D30F straight tube in it and I'm having issues with it not applying equal amounts of drive to both wheels,so for me to eliminate this issue is buy installing a locker,is that correct?
That would be correct.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #34  
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would the same problem apply with D30 that has a vacum motor on it? or is tht just so one axle will disconnect for better mileage?
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #35  
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the major question is would it be cheaper to get a D30f with a vacuum put a locker in it and replace the vac with a posi lock apposed to putting a locker in D30f straight tube and installing manual hubs?
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:48 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Not fully exactly. The np242 has a viscous coupler which allows a difference in speed between the front and rear wheels. This allows you to drive in full time on dry pavement and not bind up cause the wheels are all trying to go the same speed. Secondly, when the np231 and 242 goes into hi or lo yes it sends power to all the wheels but not like a locker. If you have open differentials, like most stock jeeps have, and a rear and front wheel come off the ground, since Those have the least "resistance" they will spin freely and the tires on th ground will just sit there. Now if you have a locker then if a tire comes off the ground, the locker "stops" the resistance and transfers it to the other tire so they both spin at the same time on that axle only. So if the rear is locked and the front isn't and the front comes off the ground, hope your tires in the rear have enough traction to push you forward. Now my fingers hope so hope this cleared up everything. Oh and locking hubs just lock the "rim", in reality the hub, what it's attached too, and the axle that goes into the pumpkin. Unlocked hubs just spin the hubs and tires. D30 and all late year Cherokees hAve one piece hubs
Oh okay that makes sense. So the stock hubs aren't auto locking hubs, but rather always locked hubs. And then the transfer case is ultimately what decides if power should go front and rear or only rear. That makes sense then. So people with the np231's front driveshaft spins as well? Cause I read somewhere that the np242 was the only one that did that..
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #37  
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Viscous coupler? In a 242?

No sir, it does not.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Viscous coupler? In a 242?

No sir, it does not.
I thought the 242 had one and that's the #1 piece that goes fast in them. I know the GC, 249 IIrc, has one right. My mistake on that note. Thanks
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cherokeelaredo'90

Oh okay that makes sense. So the stock hubs aren't auto locking hubs, but rather always locked hubs. And then the transfer case is ultimately what decides if power should go front and rear or only rear. That makes sense then. So people with the np231's front driveshaft spins as well? Cause I read somewhere that the np242 was the only one that did that..
The np231 the front dS spins when the front tires spin.

Also as for you TC comment. With the np231, I want to say this right for ya, the same amount of power goes to all the wheels during normal driving, on loose only surfaces of course. The np242 has the hi/lo settings but in its 4 full time the wheels still has the same power however the front can spin at a different speed as the rear so making turns on dry ground won't bind the TC

Last edited by sycoglitch; Mar 21, 2013 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 11:50 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Viscous coupler? In a 242?

No sir, it does not.
So how does it regulate power during turns?

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

The np231 the front dS spins when the front tires spin.

Also as for you TC comment. With the np231, I want to say this right for ya, the same amount of power goes to all the wheels during normal driving, on loose only surfaces of course. The np242 has the hi/lo settings but in its 4 full time the wheels still has the same power however the front can spin at a different speed as the rear so making turns on dry ground won't bind the TC
All I have found out really is that it has a 48/52 power split when in full time. Atleast I think that's what it is.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 03:49 AM
  #41  
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(banging my head against the desk....lol)

So, if I had an autolocker in the front, would having locking hubs be a way to take away the negative aspect of the autolocker? Meaning, if I unlock the hubs, then there would be no ratcheting while driving around town?

Or for the cost/expense, would an air locker do what I want?
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 04:08 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Motiv8er
(banging my head against the desk....lol)

So, if I had an autolocker in the front, would having locking hubs be a way to take away the negative aspect of the autolocker? Meaning, if I unlock the hubs, then there would be no ratcheting while driving around town?

Or for the cost/expense, would an air locker do what I want?
If you had manual hubs, you could unlock them and drive normally with a locker. Even with the tcase in 4wd, with the hubs unlocked you could turn without binding. The axle shafts would spin at the rate the tcase spins them, but would have no effect on the wheels what so ever.

as for the air locker I would compair prices, manual hub conversion + locker or just buy a air locker...


Personally I would go air locker.

Last edited by crdude; Mar 22, 2013 at 04:11 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 04:53 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by crdude
If you had manual hubs, you could unlock them and drive normally with a locker. Even with the tcase in 4wd, with the hubs unlocked you could turn without binding. The axle shafts would spin at the rate the tcase spins them, but would have no effect on the wheels what so ever.

as for the air locker I would compair prices, manual hub conversion + locker or just buy a air locker...


Personally I would go air locker.
see, that's what I was wondering... maybe I am making this harder than it has to be...

I've always been partial to "old school" stuff... and I thought locking hubs were one of those things that were used for a good reason and that the "fancy" or "newer" stuff was just unnecessary (like manual crank/powered windows, etc)...

I guess an air locker is the way to go...
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 05:00 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by chefys95xj
would the same problem apply with D30 that has a vacum motor on it? or is tht just so one axle will disconnect for better mileage?
I have a D30 with the CAD (vacuum motor thingy). What it basically does is separate the inboard and outboard halves of the right side axle so that when in 2wd, the front DS does not spin but, both axles and the diff still do because they are connected to the front wheels by fixed hubs. It still gets really crappy gas mileage though. If I had the money for the conversion kit, I'd get manual locking hubs because with them unlocked, the only thing spinning in 2wd, would be the front wheels. Fewer moving parts means better MPG. Unfortunately, the cheapest kit I've found is $875.00 and that's just not in my budget at the moment. And..............I'd still want to get a locker, because an open diff means only one wheel is getting power which in turn means, crappy traction up front.

Last edited by Hamster; Mar 22, 2013 at 05:04 AM.
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