Cam shaft selection
#1
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cam shaft selection
I have finally got my hands on a good block to start a build with, now its time to start looking at what parts are going in it. I thought really hard about doing a stroker but it will be a more costly than what I can afford right now. So here is what I was thinking about, any experience in this would be appreciated, basic rebuild more than likely will be bored .30 over, good quality bearings, pistons, and rings. But I have done a lot of searching to see if a slightly larger cam would help get a little more torque. There is not a big difference in prices for a stock cam vs a larger duration and lift cam. But almost all of them that I look at on summits site says not EFI compatible, but you can look on the reviews and people are putting them in and saying they do see a change in there performance more torque on the low end. That is really what I am looking for, as I live in a very hilly area and tow often with it, nothing much other than a boat or atv but either of them really kill my power. This being said my current engine is a bit of a Frankenstein, it was put together a few years ago with all used parts, used short block out of a 93 that had been sitting for a few years and had 200,000 on it topped it off with a 0630 head from a 99 with 250,000 on it. But it has served well that has been a few years ago and 30,000 miles with no problems but I have noticed some power loss nothing major and its using a little oil. Not a lot about 1 1/2 quarts between changes. I thought I would try a slightly larger cam with a basic rebuild and a larger throttle body and a new header. I already have 4 hole injectors and a flowmaster super 40. I currently have about 3 inches of lift and 30x9.50 with a auto with 3.55 gears.
#2
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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#3
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Year: 1990
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Contact Chad at Golen Engines. He will give you a good recommendation and can supply the cam.
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XJlimitedx99 (01-16-2020)
#4
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I know someone who did the cam, all I know is they went with a 'slightly ' more aggressive one, and they said it was a 'huge' difference over the old stock cam.
Only word of advice I would give is, when doing the build be sure to set the preload, and use CKEN's method of indexing the cap screws rather than a dial gauge. I did the dial gauge and thought I nailed it, then re did it with the count the turns method and sure enough ended up changing out the .040 shims for the .010 shims. But I did get right about .040 lash, which is just about dead center of the .020 to .060 spec.
It's easy, once you know how to do it. Lots of cam lube and nothing past idle on first start until all are flowing oil.
Key is use the torque wrench throughout tightening to 21ftlbs, makes it easier to count the turns. Don't just use it for the 'final torque'.
Only word of advice I would give is, when doing the build be sure to set the preload, and use CKEN's method of indexing the cap screws rather than a dial gauge. I did the dial gauge and thought I nailed it, then re did it with the count the turns method and sure enough ended up changing out the .040 shims for the .010 shims. But I did get right about .040 lash, which is just about dead center of the .020 to .060 spec.
It's easy, once you know how to do it. Lots of cam lube and nothing past idle on first start until all are flowing oil.
Key is use the torque wrench throughout tightening to 21ftlbs, makes it easier to count the turns. Don't just use it for the 'final torque'.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 01-16-2020 at 03:20 AM.
#5
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I would be changing to 4.10:1 gears before spending any money on an engine build. My 01 XJ auto with 3.55 gears 3.5" lift and 31" tires is a dog and it is not an engine issue it is a gearing issue.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: AMC 242
throw some 4.10 gears in there and it’ll make a noticeable difference
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