C8.25 355to456

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Nov 12, 2014 | 09:13 PM
  #1  
About to start with regearing the c8.25 from factory 355 to 456. I already bought a locker and just curious if I will need a new carrier too? If so where do I buy one? I have done about all the researching I can and still can't get a solid answer. Seems it has been done with factory carrier coming from 355 to 456 but the new ring gear has to be grinded on? I don't really like that idea, is there another way? TIA
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Nov 12, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #2  
There's a chance you will have to grind a tooth or two on the ring gear in order to get the cross pin back into the carrier since the ring gear is so thick. My 4.56 gears were positioned so that no grinding was necessary. And no, you do not need a new carrier for those gears.
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Nov 12, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #3  
Quote: There's a chance you will have to grind a tooth or two on the ring gear in order to get the cross pin back into the carrier since the ring gear is so thick. My 4.56 gears were positioned so that no grinding was necessary. And no, you do not need a new carrier for those gears.



I don't understand how your setup can have the ring gear "positioned" any differently than the next. Not at all calling you a liar, just hoping someone can explain this to me so I may position mine to where there will be no grinding as well.
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Nov 13, 2014 | 07:05 AM
  #4  
He's referring to rotating the ring rear on the carrier (prior to installing the bolts obviously) so that the least amount material has to be removed from the ring gear teeth (or tooth) in order to allow the center pin to be installed.
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Nov 13, 2014 | 09:55 AM
  #5  
Yep. I had to take 1 or 2 teeth down a little bit.
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Nov 13, 2014 | 10:08 AM
  #6  
Same here, had to grind just a touch off of 1 tooth.

If your carrier is an open carrier you should be okay to reuse it. If you have a carrier with an LSD you'll need a new open carrier. Contact RWK Haus ( vendor here) or Serious may have -or- can get one. If you're regearing your D30 to 4.56, you'll need a new carrier for that one also. I think the D30 carrier was running around $60-70.
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Nov 13, 2014 | 09:57 PM
  #7  
Quote:
I don't understand how your setup can have the ring gear "positioned" any differently than the next. Not at all calling you a liar, just hoping someone can explain this to me so I may position mine to where there will be no grinding as well.
It's ok, maybe I just didn't explain it clear enough.


Quote: He's referring to rotating the ring rear on the carrier (prior to installing the bolts obviously) so that the least amount material has to be removed from the ring gear teeth (or tooth) in order to allow the center pin to be installed.
That's exactly what I'm taking about. Put the ring gear on the carrier with a couple bolts, then try putting the cross pin in. If it doesn't fit, you may get lucky enough to rotate the ring gear on the carrier until it fits. Otherwise, you'll just have to grind a tooth or two.
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Nov 13, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #8  
Or, you can machine your cross pin...
C8.25 355to456-20140731_162716c-r.jpg
That way you can build your carrier on the bench and slide the c-clips in once you get it put back in, and just rotate the pin...Worked great. If you don't have the ability to do it, any machine shop would be able to do it pretty low-cost


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Nov 14, 2014 | 08:10 AM
  #9  
I used a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gear in my Chy 8.25 29 spline without any mods.
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Nov 14, 2014 | 08:45 AM
  #10  
Because there is no cross pin to put in... lol
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Nov 14, 2014 | 12:13 PM
  #11  
Yes there is. I run a detroit in mine there is a cross pin but the only function of it is to keep the shafts from sliding in so that the c clips stay on. I ground down part of my cross pin on my Detroit since there is no real force on it. I thought it would be better than Grinding a tooth. No problems yet. Also 4.56 gears.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #12  
I found a cross pin already notched but it specifically says not to use with a spartan locker which is what I have. Anyone done this? It's looking more and more like I will have to grind some teeth and I just really don't want to.

http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produc..._Gear_and_Axle

Also what did you torque ring gear bolts down to? I went to start at 50 ft. Lbs and the first one started to strip out, I put Hugh strength thread locker on it and went down to 40 on all the rest. This just seemed too light compared to ones I have done in the past.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 12:16 PM
  #13  
Quote: I found a cross pin already notched but it specifically says not to use with a spartan locker which is what I have. Anyone done this? It's looking more and more like I will have to grind some teeth and I just really don't want to.

http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produc..._Gear_and_Axle

Also what did you torque ring gear bolts down to? I went to start at 50 ft. Lbs and the first one started to strip out, I put Hugh strength thread locker on it and went down to 40 on all the rest. This just seemed too light compared to ones I have done in the past.
It is supposed to be torqued to 55 ft. lbs.

The teeth have to be ground down. It'll be fine...
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Dec 1, 2014 | 02:16 PM
  #14  
I don't know whats going on but the ring gear bolts were tightened all to 20 ft lbs. then 40 ft. lbs and then as I began to go up to 55 from 40, every bolt I turn on begins to strip the threads. Do I leave them at 40 or what? Its a Yukon ring gear and its brand new.
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Dec 1, 2014 | 02:19 PM
  #15  
Quote: I don't know whats going on but the ring gear bolts were tightened all to 20 ft lbs. then 40 ft. lbs and then as I began to go up to 55 from 40, every bolt I turn on begins to strip the threads. Do I leave them at 40 or what? Its a Yukon ring gear and its brand new.
I would try a different torque wrench. maybe the wrench is out of whack???
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