Buying a 98 XJ, have some questions!!
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Model: Cherokee
Buying a 98 XJ, have some questions!!
Hi everyone this is my first post here on the forums and am going to be perchasing a 1998 Cherokee tomorrow but have some questions.
This is from the ad online about the jeep:
Vehicle:
1998 Jeep Cherokee
2-Door
5-speed manual transmission with fresh clutch (less than 15,000 since installed) Lime time warranty from Autozone
Cloth interior
Has 31's on it now.
Has rare Corporate rear end
Dana 30 front end with new u-joints, seals and bearings.
Additions:
4.5 inch Teraflex lift
2 inch RUK spacers/shackles
1-ton steering upgrade
Dropped pitman arm
SYE-kit with double carden drive shaft (front drive shaft out of 1995 grand cherokee v8)
Stainless steel brake line extensions(front)
ARB brush guard
Throttle body spacer
K&N style air filter
Adams custom front drive shaft
Rear sway bar removed
Quick disconnect for front sway bar
Front and rear axles out of an automatic 2000 Jeep Cherokee (my old Cherokee) so it has lower gearing (3:55)
31.5x10.5r15 Goodyear Wrangler all-terrains
Nice American Alloy polished aluminum wheels
THE BAD:
Needs rear brake lines, the rear brake lines are rusted through and there are no rear brakes. The front brakes work great and have new hardware.
The speedometer does not work. When we installed the SYE kit it eliminated the gear that the speedo runs on. I just use my phone. The odometer reads 175,700 and has since I got it.
The doors need new hinges and sag very very bad. I rarely use the driver side door because of this.
So with all that being said I thought I would get some imput from people that have the same vehicle.
As far as the rear brake lines I did some researching and it looks like I need extended rear lines because of the lift. I read somewhere that people have used stock lines for a mid 90's dodge dakota with the 5.2L engine?
I'm not too concerned about the mileage and speedo not working but if there is some way I can fix it to make it work I might as well.
I have done the most research on the door sag issue because that and the brakes are top priorities. So I've read that either the weld is broken where the hinge meets the A-pillar or the pins need to be replaced. If anyone has a link as to where to buy the door pins replacements that would be awesome. I also plan on have the doors removeable, any good write ups to follow on the 97+ model?
Also the steering has some play in it even though it has the steering upgrade(ZJ bar) which the owner said is because it is missing one of the bolts holding the box to the frame? So my question is should I go ahead and swap in a durango box(99 v8 4x4 none plow model)? I plan on running 33x12.5s eventually.
My plan for the vehicle is to make is kind of a "weekend warrior" for the moment but it will not be used as my DD, just a back up. So that being considered what kind of things should I replace preventitive maintenace wise. Already planning to do all of the oils(engine, tranny, differentials). What different gaskets, seals(oil seal particularly, i've heard this is a common problem), and anything else that would be good since it does have 180k miles roughly. I do have some wrenching experience and should be able to tackle most of the things myself hopefully. I really appreciate everyones responses ahead of time and look forward to building this rig up and getting out and wheeling it with members!
This is from the ad online about the jeep:
Vehicle:
1998 Jeep Cherokee
2-Door
5-speed manual transmission with fresh clutch (less than 15,000 since installed) Lime time warranty from Autozone
Cloth interior
Has 31's on it now.
Has rare Corporate rear end
Dana 30 front end with new u-joints, seals and bearings.
Additions:
4.5 inch Teraflex lift
2 inch RUK spacers/shackles
1-ton steering upgrade
Dropped pitman arm
SYE-kit with double carden drive shaft (front drive shaft out of 1995 grand cherokee v8)
Stainless steel brake line extensions(front)
ARB brush guard
Throttle body spacer
K&N style air filter
Adams custom front drive shaft
Rear sway bar removed
Quick disconnect for front sway bar
Front and rear axles out of an automatic 2000 Jeep Cherokee (my old Cherokee) so it has lower gearing (3:55)
31.5x10.5r15 Goodyear Wrangler all-terrains
Nice American Alloy polished aluminum wheels
THE BAD:
Needs rear brake lines, the rear brake lines are rusted through and there are no rear brakes. The front brakes work great and have new hardware.
The speedometer does not work. When we installed the SYE kit it eliminated the gear that the speedo runs on. I just use my phone. The odometer reads 175,700 and has since I got it.
The doors need new hinges and sag very very bad. I rarely use the driver side door because of this.
So with all that being said I thought I would get some imput from people that have the same vehicle.
As far as the rear brake lines I did some researching and it looks like I need extended rear lines because of the lift. I read somewhere that people have used stock lines for a mid 90's dodge dakota with the 5.2L engine?
I'm not too concerned about the mileage and speedo not working but if there is some way I can fix it to make it work I might as well.
I have done the most research on the door sag issue because that and the brakes are top priorities. So I've read that either the weld is broken where the hinge meets the A-pillar or the pins need to be replaced. If anyone has a link as to where to buy the door pins replacements that would be awesome. I also plan on have the doors removeable, any good write ups to follow on the 97+ model?
Also the steering has some play in it even though it has the steering upgrade(ZJ bar) which the owner said is because it is missing one of the bolts holding the box to the frame? So my question is should I go ahead and swap in a durango box(99 v8 4x4 none plow model)? I plan on running 33x12.5s eventually.
My plan for the vehicle is to make is kind of a "weekend warrior" for the moment but it will not be used as my DD, just a back up. So that being considered what kind of things should I replace preventitive maintenace wise. Already planning to do all of the oils(engine, tranny, differentials). What different gaskets, seals(oil seal particularly, i've heard this is a common problem), and anything else that would be good since it does have 180k miles roughly. I do have some wrenching experience and should be able to tackle most of the things myself hopefully. I really appreciate everyones responses ahead of time and look forward to building this rig up and getting out and wheeling it with members!
#2
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Year: 1992
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If the rear brake lines are rusted through, how are the fronts working? I would not drive it anywhere if the lines are actually rusted through and fluid is leaking out. It's only a matter of time before all the fluid is gone and you have no brakes. Not sure how you have any half way decent braking right now since it is all the same hydraulic system???
When you do replace the rear lines, the soft line from a Dakota will work. I have one installed on mine, direct fit. Not sure about the hard lines.
The steering box would be a nice upgrade if you have the funds, but not necessary. I would however, find that third bolt and replace it.
Sounds like once the brake issues are sorted out, you should have a nice rig. If it were me, I would not worry about the speedo if it will mostly be a wheelin' rig. Your other PM items are good. Factor in a tune up (plugs, wires, etc) too. If you aren't seeing any leaks form the rear main or valve cover consider yourself lucky for now, but keep an eye on it.
Good luck with your project.
When you do replace the rear lines, the soft line from a Dakota will work. I have one installed on mine, direct fit. Not sure about the hard lines.
The steering box would be a nice upgrade if you have the funds, but not necessary. I would however, find that third bolt and replace it.
Sounds like once the brake issues are sorted out, you should have a nice rig. If it were me, I would not worry about the speedo if it will mostly be a wheelin' rig. Your other PM items are good. Factor in a tune up (plugs, wires, etc) too. If you aren't seeing any leaks form the rear main or valve cover consider yourself lucky for now, but keep an eye on it.
Good luck with your project.
#3
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
What is a corporate rear end? He also traded in a low pinion Dana 30 and got rid of your high pinion that came from factory. Odd choice.
Last edited by Red82; 03-01-2013 at 11:32 PM.
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Honestly not sure how the front are still working but I test drove it the other day and it seemed to stop fine? But that will be the first thing i fix. Deffinatly going to be doing a tune up aswell and will check on the rear main seal and valve covers.
From what I understand the corporate rear end(also referred to as the 8.25) is a better option the stock Dana 35 the came orignally equiped with the jeep.
From what I understand the corporate rear end(also referred to as the 8.25) is a better option the stock Dana 35 the came orignally equiped with the jeep.
#5
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I would be cautious with this XJ.
The brake lines were probably crimped close so they don't leak as much.This is a temperary trail repair,not a fix I'd use & drive on it the street.
The door is a fairly easy fix.He say's it's so bad he doesn't use the door.Why? He must have watched too much "Dukes of Hazzard".
The 8.25 is far from rare.I couldn't imagine the description if it had a Dana 44.It has 6.5 inches of lift on 31's.Right? With that much lift he had 33's or 35's on it with axles that were properly geared for the tires.Most likely a HP30 & "rare" Corporate.Like said,now you have a less desirable Dana 30 (since it's low pinion).
He probably took the better axles out to either sell or to put in a XJ he doesn't mind putting $ into.
The steering could be a wornout box or just the bolt loose,missing or broken off.
The good thing is that he is telling you what is wrong with it,but I'd be worried about what he may NOT be telling you.
What I always say after the sale is "alright,now that I own it,what else do you think I might need to look at or fix".
I smell a money pit.
Good luck.
The brake lines were probably crimped close so they don't leak as much.This is a temperary trail repair,not a fix I'd use & drive on it the street.
The door is a fairly easy fix.He say's it's so bad he doesn't use the door.Why? He must have watched too much "Dukes of Hazzard".
The 8.25 is far from rare.I couldn't imagine the description if it had a Dana 44.It has 6.5 inches of lift on 31's.Right? With that much lift he had 33's or 35's on it with axles that were properly geared for the tires.Most likely a HP30 & "rare" Corporate.Like said,now you have a less desirable Dana 30 (since it's low pinion).
He probably took the better axles out to either sell or to put in a XJ he doesn't mind putting $ into.
The steering could be a wornout box or just the bolt loose,missing or broken off.
The good thing is that he is telling you what is wrong with it,but I'd be worried about what he may NOT be telling you.
What I always say after the sale is "alright,now that I own it,what else do you think I might need to look at or fix".
I smell a money pit.
Good luck.
Last edited by Big David; 03-02-2013 at 05:52 AM.
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So I bought the jeep today and have been out wrenching on it for the better part of the day. Got alot of things done and ordered some parts online. Still looking for a places to buy the pins and bushing for the doors(if someone can direct me to where they bought theres that would be awesome).
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Honestly not sure how the front are still working but I test drove it the other day and it seemed to stop fine? But that will be the first thing i fix. Deffinatly going to be doing a tune up aswell and will check on the rear main seal and valve covers.
From what I understand the corporate rear end(also referred to as the 8.25) is a better option the stock Dana 35 the came orignally equiped with the jeep.
From what I understand the corporate rear end(also referred to as the 8.25) is a better option the stock Dana 35 the came orignally equiped with the jeep.
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